Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Emulium Mellifera MB / Lotion emulsifer?

  • Emulium Mellifera MB / Lotion emulsifer?

    Posted by Graillotion on February 17, 2020 at 3:10 am

    Rather new to the business….created my first formula last fall, and am working on #2 and #3.  First formula turned out really nice….maybe beginners luck….or my penchant for research?  I have discovered that the vendors of all ingredients love to embellish and praise their products (can we blame them?).  My first lotion I used e-wax, as the emulsifier and have disliked the soaping effect that product produced.  Therefore as I create my second,  (super premium) lotion, I felt the emulsifier was the starting point.  I wanted to go with a ‘natural’….(and I am not super strict with that word) emulsifier that has minimal soaping….and really brought some enhancement to the lotion feel.  I am waiting for my  Emulium Mellifera MB sample to arrive.  Has anyone worked with this product? INCL: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol.

    I guess in general my question is …..are there natural (all in one) emulsifiers that actually create an enhanced sensory experience, or is this mainly hype?  I am using a blend of premium natural oils and multiple humectants, and Murumuru / Cupuacu butters.

    Has anyone worked with this product in particular…and found it above average?  Below average?  Poor performing?  Amazing performance…etc…

    I had thought about using: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate as the emulsifier…as I have made several (sample) batches with it, and soaping is negligible, and feel is good.  But I did not want to miss out on something that might be really special…..Totally open to suggestions.


    EVchem replied 4 years, 3 months ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • jemolian

    February 17, 2020 at 4:03 am

    Actually what kind of enhanced sensory experience are you looking for?

    Normally there should be a texture or skin feel profile / description for the emulsifiers from the manufacturer, so you will be able to select by looking for their brochures. 

    I use a combination of natural derived / synthetic ingredients. All of them would still change the skin feel or experience of the end product slightly so you might want to consider more than just the emulsifier.  

  • Graillotion

    February 17, 2020 at 7:11 am

    I guess regarding skin feel….it is a little hard to put into words…..but I want that wow factor…. Eyes brightening and widening when the product is first applied…and to some degree, I am getting that.  I did not mean to imply that the emulsifier had to carry the load….just contribute, and not detract.  I also use HA, silk amino acids, Daikon extract, and some pretty good feeling oils….Camellia, Kukui, Macadamia, Jojoba etc… So I have tried to create the silicone profiles via natural products.  I am trying to avoid the synthetics, I am Hawaii based and trying to keep it natural.

  • EVchem

    February 17, 2020 at 1:10 pm

    Haven’t worked with that emulium but the emulium kappa mb isn’t bad feel, still has the soaping problem though. It would be easily fixed by silicones.. 

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