Forum Replies Created

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  • jemolian

    Member
    September 11, 2020 at 2:33 am in reply to: Non comedogenic ingredients for TEWL?

    I got mine from China as per most of my common ingredients but you should be able to purchase it from the Germany side. 

    I’m mainly using it since i can’t really use Niacianmide since i’m allergic to it, they have some similar benefits but so far i think performance wise it would be complimentary to Glycerin but wouldn’t really out perform Glycerin in terms of giving a substantiating or lasting skin feel. 

    My base formula is mainly Isononyl Isononanoate, Aquaxyl, Glycerin, Betaine, Trehalose, Sepinov EMT 10, Septonic M3. It does it’s job relatively well in keeping the skin relatively hydrated and lightly moisturized, but i doesn’t hurt to add a more moisturizing ingredient. I’m try to get a flexible formula that is not tacky under higher humidity (around 70%) but still sufficient for lower humidity (45%).

  • jemolian

    Member
    September 11, 2020 at 2:18 am in reply to: Non comedogenic ingredients for TEWL?

    I’ll try it at 2% with Isononyl Isononanoate, Aquaxyl and Glycerin and see how it will change the moisturization performance or skin feel. :)

  • jemolian

    Member
    September 11, 2020 at 2:05 am in reply to: Non comedogenic ingredients for TEWL?

    That’s great, i’ll maybe order from Lotioncrafter next time to test it out again. The K-20W i bought from Nobleroots just arrived so i’m also eager to test it out over the weekend. Took some time since i’m not in the US. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    September 11, 2020 at 12:13 am in reply to: Promote fats accumulation

    You can probably find them at ulprospector and check the tech specs there. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    September 4, 2020 at 12:20 am in reply to: Korean cosmetic?

    As someone who is Asian and also worked as digital marketing in a small Korean skincare distribution company & also answered customer questions on their routine, i’d just say it’s marketing and how they market it. 

    It depends on what perspective you are looking at, we Asian has been into Japanese, Taiwanese, Korean skin care for years, so the western side is slowly catching up, just not to the Taiwanese side, probably because their products are not distributed well enough. 

    Their style of formulation is slightly different from the western side of formulating as well. Though for the Korean and Japanese, there are more variety of products that can cover summer / winter needs. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    September 2, 2020 at 1:12 am in reply to: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

    @ngarayeva001 any recommendations for (maybe low HLB) co-emulsifiers for the Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone? I don’t think i can source for the Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate. Would something like Olivem 900 do?  

  • jemolian

    Member
    September 1, 2020 at 12:19 am in reply to: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

    I did the combo since i saw the Geltrap idea but there’s no issues so far at room temperature with both Sepinov EMT 10 or Sepimax Zen. Though i’m really curious is it really performed as well as the Geltrap would do or if it’s even similar. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 31, 2020 at 12:27 am in reply to: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

    You will need to meet the requirements to stabilize it but i tested it with Sepinov EMT 10 since i don’t have the co-emulsifier that it’s normally paired with, it seems to be much draggier.  

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 31, 2020 at 12:24 am in reply to: Non comedogenic ingredients for TEWL?

    I can’t remember which shop i bought it from, i think FSS, but the smell made me gag a little. Not using it ever again. You can try it and see if you are fine with it though. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 24, 2020 at 6:54 am in reply to: Emulsifier for facial cream….

    Normally i’d do light gel creams since it’s humid where i am, so my basic format is like this: 

    • 5% - 10% Ester (normally Isononyl Isononanoate)
    • 3% Lotionpro 165 or similar, Montanov L is fine as well
    • 2% Cetyl Alcohol
    • 1% Aristoflex AVC or 0.75% Sodium Carbomer
    • Glycerin with Betaine
    • Preservative 

    I don’t use Glycols or Diols since they make my face tingle. Other Montanovs should be fine. It’s replaceable with Montanov 202 if you want a matte finish. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 17, 2020 at 7:15 am in reply to: Let’s compare humectants!

    Has anyone tried or have any feedback for Sodium Polyglutamate (Polyglutamic acid) or Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate? 

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 12, 2020 at 1:55 pm in reply to: CAN YOU ADD HYALURONIC ACID TO OIL BASED PRODUCTS?

    There’s also another oil dispersed version, Hyacolor, which lotioncrafter carries as Oleo-HA.

    INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil

    https://www.ulprospector.com/en/asia/PersonalCare/Detail/1504/341895/Hyacolor?st=1&sl=93236583&crit=a2V5d29yZDpbYmxvb21hZ2Vd&ss=2&k=bloomage&t=bloomage

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 12, 2020 at 2:11 am in reply to: How can I get Betaine?

    I normally use Trehalose in part of my additives but there’s doesn’t provide much texture nor is it really hydrating. I feel that there’s not enough data for me to recommend it if you already use Betaine. However, Trehalose would be useful for stability for some ingredients, probably liposomes or proteins.

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 11, 2020 at 9:16 am in reply to: Penetration enhancer for actives in a mist

    Personally i feel that if you choose to use peptides, perhaps it would be good to have it suspending in a serum thickened with a water based gelling agent. 

    If you choose to use it in a mist, perhaps normal Glycols or Diols would be fine?

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 11, 2020 at 1:08 am in reply to: Thoughts on SACCHARIDE ISOMERATE? Worth it??

    I find Saccharide Isomerate to be on the tacky side as well. Though i’m not really a fan of how oily Propanediol feels. 

    Hyaluronic Acid should do well if used at a lower percentage like 0.5% or less, which it isn’t really tacky in the first place? I’m more annoyed at how it film forms at a higher percentage. 

    Not really a fan of Honeyquat as well since the one i received smell fishy since it’s cationic. 

    If you are using the Amino Acid blends, then you might not need to try the hydrolyzed proteins, though you can try to see which you prefer. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    August 5, 2020 at 3:29 am in reply to: MG-60 or a natural/naturally derived substitute

    I was wondering about that so i looked at the marketing brochures again that i usually saved. Have you tried working with Betaine to see if it works for that effect? 


  • jemolian

    Member
    August 4, 2020 at 12:41 am in reply to: MG-60 or a natural/naturally derived substitute

    I’ve seen them being sold by repackers on Taobao (China), the moisturization functions overlaps with the Betaine that i had, so i didn’t bother purchasing some to test out. Not sure if you have tried Betaine yet?  

  • jemolian

    Member
    July 24, 2020 at 2:19 am in reply to: SK-Influx - Heat Phase?

    @emma1985 This is the composition from the SK-Influx Product data record (PDR). I’m not sure where you read that it’s 50%. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    July 23, 2020 at 1:48 pm in reply to: Fatty ointment for eczema

    The PEG version is a solubilizer so there is no use for it to be in the formulation since the functionality is different. You can subsitute another wax if required. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    July 23, 2020 at 9:24 am in reply to: Fatty ointment for eczema

    I believe the alternative name for the Hydrogenated castor oil would be “Castor Wax”? Have you considered trying another ointment like Aquaphor instead? 

  • jemolian

    Member
    July 15, 2020 at 9:21 am in reply to: skin serum

    I think if you searched on ulprospector you should be able to find the normal usage rates. 

    • Niacinamide - 2% or higher should be fine. Some brands have them up to 10%
    • Hyaluronic Acid - 1% or less should be fine. 
    • Beta Glucan Powder Extract - 0.1% raw powder or lower should be fine. Said to boost collagen / healing, smoothen rough skin. 
    • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate - 1% or higher should be fine. Some brands have them up to 12%. 
    • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Teprenone - See Renovage by Croda, 3%. 
  • jemolian

    Member
    July 14, 2020 at 9:32 am in reply to: Increasing moisturiser penetration/absorption

    I’d say “absorption” is an illusion since it can be achieved by lowering ingredients that provides a cushioning effect, increasing the water content, less tacky humectants.  

  • jemolian

    Member
    July 14, 2020 at 9:30 am in reply to: Hydroxyethyl Urea vs Urea

    In the marketing brochure, you might find that the humectant they would compare the Hydrovance to would be Glycerin or others. I didn’t see that they have compared it to Urea? Not sure if you did, but i won’t assume that they would be replaceable for each other otherwise. I’d minimally say that hydrovance would be a more premium Glycerin. 

  • jemolian

    Member
    July 2, 2020 at 12:32 am in reply to: Let’s compare humectants!

    I have quite a few different humectants, though normally i’d just use in combination of Glycerin + Betaine. Addition of Trehalose if i’m feeling fancy.

    The glycols / diols make my face tingle a little, so i try not to use them too much or often. For other sugars, i have Aquaxyl, Sorbitol, Erythritol as well. I can’t really use Urea since it kind of exfoliates me too much.  

  • jemolian

    Member
    June 26, 2020 at 1:32 am in reply to: Why did the EU ban Parabens?

    Not certain if this is the right EU commission or agency, but at least on this Annex, parabens are allowed. 

    https://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:342:0059:0209:en:PDF

    Our ASEAN directives follows relatively to the EU guidelines, so for ours they are still allowed to be used at a certain percentage as per the guidelines. 

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