[jemolian]

Tried the BioLatum today….in a rather dry lotion…and at 1%, it took it to something I did not care for, shiny, and residual oiliness.  My skin does not soak up oil like a sponge.  

Yes, i guess that would be one of the pitfalls of using petrolatum like ingredients. I’m wondering if using a mattifying emulsifier like Montanov 202 would reduce the shine. So far testing with 7.5% White Petrolatum is fine but slightly too shiny. Not sure if using starches would reduce their TEWL reduction effects.  

[jemolian]

I got mine from China as per most of my common ingredients but you should be able to purchase it from the Germany side. 

I’m mainly using it since i can’t really use Niacianmide since i’m allergic to it, they have some similar benefits but so far i think performance wise it would be complimentary to Glycerin but wouldn’t really out perform Glycerin in terms of giving a substantiating or lasting skin feel. 

My base formula is mainly Isononyl Isononanoate, Aquaxyl, Glycerin, Betaine, Trehalose, Sepinov EMT 10, Septonic M3. It does it’s job relatively well in keeping the skin relatively hydrated and lightly moisturized, but i doesn’t hurt to add a more moisturizing ingredient. I’m try to get a flexible formula that is not tacky under higher humidity (around 70%) but still sufficient for lower humidity (45%).

[jemolian]

I’ll try it at 2% with Isononyl Isononanoate, Aquaxyl and Glycerin and see how it will change the moisturization performance or skin feel.

[jemolian]

That’s great, i’ll maybe order from Lotioncrafter next time to test it out again. The K-20W i bought from Nobleroots just arrived so i’m also eager to test it out over the weekend. Took some time since i’m not in the US. 

[jemolian]

You can probably find them at ulprospector and check the tech specs there. 

[jemolian]

As someone who is Asian and also worked as digital marketing in a small Korean skincare distribution company & also answered customer questions on their routine, i’d just say it’s marketing and how they market it. 

It depends on what perspective you are looking at, we Asian has been into Japanese, Taiwanese, Korean skin care for years, so the western side is slowly catching up, just not to the Taiwanese side, probably because their products are not distributed well enough. 

Their style of formulation is slightly different from the western side of formulating as well. Though for the Korean and Japanese, there are more variety of products that can cover summer / winter needs. 

[jemolian]

@ngarayeva001 any recommendations for (maybe low HLB) co-emulsifiers for the Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone? I don’t think i can source for the Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate. Would something like Olivem 900 do?  

[jemolian]

I did the combo since i saw the Geltrap idea but there’s no issues so far at room temperature with both Sepinov EMT 10 or Sepimax Zen. Though i’m really curious is it really performed as well as the Geltrap would do or if it’s even similar. 

[jemolian]

You will need to meet the requirements to stabilize it but i tested it with Sepinov EMT 10 since i don’t have the co-emulsifier that it’s normally paired with, it seems to be much draggier.  

[jemolian]

I can’t remember which shop i bought it from, i think FSS, but the smell made me gag a little. Not using it ever again. You can try it and see if you are fine with it though. 

[jemolian]

Normally i’d do light gel creams since it’s humid where i am, so my basic format is like this: 

• 5% - 10% Ester (normally Isononyl Isononanoate)
• 3% Lotionpro 165 or similar, Montanov L is fine as well
• 2% Cetyl Alcohol
• 1% Aristoflex AVC or 0.75% Sodium Carbomer
• Glycerin with Betaine
• Preservative 

I don’t use Glycols or Diols since they make my face tingle. Other Montanovs should be fine. It’s replaceable with Montanov 202 if you want a matte finish. 

[jemolian]

Has anyone tried or have any feedback for Sodium Polyglutamate (Polyglutamic acid) or Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate? 

[jemolian]

There’s also another oil dispersed version, Hyacolor, which lotioncrafter carries as Oleo-HA.

INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil

https://www.ulprospector.com/en/asia/PersonalCare/Detail/1504/341895/Hyacolor?st=1&sl=93236583&crit=a2V5d29yZDpbYmxvb21hZ2Vd&ss=2&k=bloomage&t=bloomage

[jemolian]

I normally use Trehalose in part of my additives but there’s doesn’t provide much texture nor is it really hydrating. I feel that there’s not enough data for me to recommend it if you already use Betaine. However, Trehalose would be useful for stability for some ingredients, probably liposomes or proteins.

[jemolian]

Personally i feel that if you choose to use peptides, perhaps it would be good to have it suspending in a serum thickened with a water based gelling agent. 

If you choose to use it in a mist, perhaps normal Glycols or Diols would be fine?

[jemolian]

I find Saccharide Isomerate to be on the tacky side as well. Though i’m not really a fan of how oily Propanediol feels. 

Hyaluronic Acid should do well if used at a lower percentage like 0.5% or less, which it isn’t really tacky in the first place? I’m more annoyed at how it film forms at a higher percentage. 

Not really a fan of Honeyquat as well since the one i received smell fishy since it’s cationic. 

If you are using the Amino Acid blends, then you might not need to try the hydrolyzed proteins, though you can try to see which you prefer. 

[jemolian]

I was wondering about that so i looked at the marketing brochures again that i usually saved. Have you tried working with Betaine to see if it works for that effect? 

[jemolian]

I’ve seen them being sold by repackers on Taobao (China), the moisturization functions overlaps with the Betaine that i had, so i didn’t bother purchasing some to test out. Not sure if you have tried Betaine yet?  

[jemolian]

@emma1985 This is the composition from the SK-Influx Product data record (PDR). I’m not sure where you read that it’s 50%. 

[jemolian]

The PEG version is a solubilizer so there is no use for it to be in the formulation since the functionality is different. You can subsitute another wax if required. 

[jemolian]

I believe the alternative name for the Hydrogenated castor oil would be “Castor Wax”? Have you considered trying another ointment like Aquaphor instead? 

[jemolian]

I think if you searched on ulprospector you should be able to find the normal usage rates. 

• Niacinamide - 2% or higher should be fine. Some brands have them up to 10%
• Hyaluronic Acid - 1% or less should be fine. 
• Beta Glucan Powder Extract - 0.1% raw powder or lower should be fine. Said to boost collagen / healing, smoothen rough skin. 
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate - 1% or higher should be fine. Some brands have them up to 12%. 
• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Teprenone - See Renovage by Croda, 3%. 

[jemolian]

I’d say “absorption” is an illusion since it can be achieved by lowering ingredients that provides a cushioning effect, increasing the water content, less tacky humectants.  

[jemolian]

In the marketing brochure, you might find that the humectant they would compare the Hydrovance to would be Glycerin or others. I didn’t see that they have compared it to Urea? Not sure if you did, but i won’t assume that they would be replaceable for each other otherwise. I’d minimally say that hydrovance would be a more premium Glycerin. 

[jemolian]

I have quite a few different humectants, though normally i’d just use in combination of Glycerin + Betaine. Addition of Trehalose if i’m feeling fancy.

The glycols / diols make my face tingle a little, so i try not to use them too much or often. For other sugars, i have Aquaxyl, Sorbitol, Erythritol as well. I can’t really use Urea since it kind of exfoliates me too much.