jemolian
Forum Replies Created
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Normally i’d do light gel creams since it’s humid where i am, so my basic format is like this:
- 5% - 10% Ester (normally Isononyl Isononanoate)
- 3% Lotionpro 165 or similar, Montanov L is fine as well
- 2% Cetyl Alcohol
- 1% Aristoflex AVC or 0.75% Sodium Carbomer
- Glycerin with Betaine
- Preservative
I don’t use Glycols or Diols since they make my face tingle. Other Montanovs should be fine. It’s replaceable with Montanov 202 if you want a matte finish.
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Has anyone tried or have any feedback for Sodium Polyglutamate (Polyglutamic acid) or Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate?
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There’s also another oil dispersed version, Hyacolor, which lotioncrafter carries as Oleo-HA.
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil
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I normally use Trehalose in part of my additives but there’s doesn’t provide much texture nor is it really hydrating. I feel that there’s not enough data for me to recommend it if you already use Betaine. However, Trehalose would be useful for stability for some ingredients, probably liposomes or proteins.
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Personally i feel that if you choose to use peptides, perhaps it would be good to have it suspending in a serum thickened with a water based gelling agent.
If you choose to use it in a mist, perhaps normal Glycols or Diols would be fine?
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I find Saccharide Isomerate to be on the tacky side as well. Though i’m not really a fan of how oily Propanediol feels.
Hyaluronic Acid should do well if used at a lower percentage like 0.5% or less, which it isn’t really tacky in the first place? I’m more annoyed at how it film forms at a higher percentage.
Not really a fan of Honeyquat as well since the one i received smell fishy since it’s cationic.
If you are using the Amino Acid blends, then you might not need to try the hydrolyzed proteins, though you can try to see which you prefer.
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I was wondering about that so i looked at the marketing brochures again that i usually saved. Have you tried working with Betaine to see if it works for that effect?
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I’ve seen them being sold by repackers on Taobao (China), the moisturization functions overlaps with the Betaine that i had, so i didn’t bother purchasing some to test out. Not sure if you have tried Betaine yet?
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@emma1985 This is the composition from the SK-Influx Product data record (PDR). I’m not sure where you read that it’s 50%.
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The PEG version is a solubilizer so there is no use for it to be in the formulation since the functionality is different. You can subsitute another wax if required.
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I believe the alternative name for the Hydrogenated castor oil would be “Castor Wax”? Have you considered trying another ointment like Aquaphor instead?
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I think if you searched on ulprospector you should be able to find the normal usage rates.
- Niacinamide - 2% or higher should be fine. Some brands have them up to 10%
- Hyaluronic Acid - 1% or less should be fine.
- Beta Glucan Powder Extract - 0.1% raw powder or lower should be fine. Said to boost collagen / healing, smoothen rough skin.
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate - 1% or higher should be fine. Some brands have them up to 12%.
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Teprenone - See Renovage by Croda, 3%.
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I’d say “absorption” is an illusion since it can be achieved by lowering ingredients that provides a cushioning effect, increasing the water content, less tacky humectants.
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In the marketing brochure, you might find that the humectant they would compare the Hydrovance to would be Glycerin or others. I didn’t see that they have compared it to Urea? Not sure if you did, but i won’t assume that they would be replaceable for each other otherwise. I’d minimally say that hydrovance would be a more premium Glycerin.
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I have quite a few different humectants, though normally i’d just use in combination of Glycerin + Betaine. Addition of Trehalose if i’m feeling fancy.
The glycols / diols make my face tingle a little, so i try not to use them too much or often. For other sugars, i have Aquaxyl, Sorbitol, Erythritol as well. I can’t really use Urea since it kind of exfoliates me too much.
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Not certain if this is the right EU commission or agency, but at least on this Annex, parabens are allowed.
https://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:342:0059:0209:en:PDF
Our ASEAN directives follows relatively to the EU guidelines, so for ours they are still allowed to be used at a certain percentage as per the guidelines.
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Sometimes it can be a very fine line between what you call a product, because a toner is just slightly larger in volume compared to a serum.
For example, with 5% Lactic Acid, it can be in a toner or serum, so the difference can just be the volume.
For example for 5% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, it can be in a toner or serum, but as it’s slightly more pricey, it will normally be in a serum format so that it would be more reasonably priced for the consumer.
So it’s up to you to decide what makes a toner or not, but some toners are thicker and may contain gums.
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You can check the solubility of the ingredients in Propylene Glycol but normally you won’t really use it at such as high percentage compared to Propanediol.
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Personally i don’t use any gums in a toner formulation since i use it in a spray if make one. You are lacking a preservative though.
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You can dupe the product from The Ordinary and use LAA with Propanediol.
Products reference:
https://theordinary.deciem.com/product/rdn-ascorbic-acid-8pct-alpha-arbutin-2pct-30ml?redir=1Alternatively:
https://theordinary.deciem.com/product/rdn-ethylated-ascorbic-acid-15pct-solution-30ml?redir=1 -
Do you mean the peaked trail that stretches out from the blob of cream on your fingertips?
Yes, i think that’s what it is? It doesn’t really look really good with gums most of the time. Or maybe i’m just used to looking at the products with carbomer types.
For the HEC, i bought mine from China, but the specs seems to be the similar as the one from lotioncrafter. It hydrates better with heat or higher pH. If i’m being slightly lazy while making a water based serum with HEC, i’ll add some Sodium Phytate to help hydrate the HEC, then lower the pH later on. At least i don’t have to heat it and still have a chelating agent. ::smile:
https://lotioncrafter.com/products/hydroxyethylcellulose-hec-1?_pos=1&_sid=b8b1a1944&_ss=r
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TBH, i’m not really a fan of gums, maybe because it makes my cream looks a little weird during pickup. I have all 5 of the gums (Xanthan, HEC, Sclerotium, Solagum AX & Solagum Tara). Out of the gums, i’ve tried Xanthan, HEC & Solagum Tara.
I don’t think it will be easy to avoid soaping because it still largely depends on the formulation, that’s why i tend to use polymeric emulsifiers in place. If i had to choose, i’d use HEC if there’s a heated phase, at least with HEC i don’t experience much of the slight weird skin feel that Xanthan Gum might give, but i don’t think HEC would be considered “natural”?. If you prefer a gum that can thicken, you can try Solagum Tara but one version of the cream i made still soaps with it.
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The Dehydroxanthan Gum that i had made my cream pill or ball up, so it’s not something i’d use again in a leave on product, so i’ve also used it to thicken a micellar gel formulation instead.
Normally if i have to add a gum, i’ll normally add HEC if it’s a heated water phase. Have you considered Solagum Ax or Solagum Tara? -
Normally i’d do 1:1 for Glycerin to Betaine, example 1.5% to 1.5%, i’m fine with Glycerin up to 3% in a polymeric emulsifier formulation as i’m in a humid country, having it too high would be slightly too tacky for me.
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@EVchem mainly r/SkincareAddiction since i’m there most of the time.