[Ilsme]

We’ve tried so many natural alternatives and nothing comes close. One Benecel form Ashland gave very nice gel structure and skin feel but was not stable over the time. I still want to try it again.

[Ilsme]

Pharma said:

Most cosmetic polymers aren’t microplastic. Only microbeads and, obviously, packaging are ‘hard to digest’ for mother nature. The water gelling and swelling polymers aren’t considered microplastic.

You’re absolutely right and I wish people would understand that..
yet I regulary get E-Mails from customer service and have to assure customers that carbomer is not microplastic. They’ve read on internet so it must be true that carbomer or everything “-copolymer” belongs to “fluid microplastics” and is very bad for the environment and health. “Natural cosmetics” is a huge trend in Germany and many companies that occure overnight are huge part of this misinformation

[Ilsme]

In Germany they are the next bad thing, thanks to environmentalists. Many cosmetic companies already have logos “free from microplastic” and so so many people put all polymers under “microplastic”. 

[Ilsme]

grapefruit22 said:

Exactly, it cannot be stated (in EU) that a product is free of permitted ingredients, because it’s discrimination against other manufacturers, just as it is forbidden to indicate “free of” ingredients that are prohibited. In fact, there are very few “free of” options that are allowed.

It is not allowed but most companies (in Germany) are using those claims. Some “smart” clients wouldn’t chose a correctly labeled product because if there’s not a claim “free of” on it, it “must be bad for your health” (sometimes I’m facepalming so hard when answering the client questions that I’m afraid of a concussion)

[Ilsme]

Certified natural cosmetics for example NaTrue allow to use fragrances complying with ISO 9235. In Europe at the moment there are quite few perfume houses which formulate according to this standard and one can find lovely fragrances.
I personally find, they are still quite limited in their range compared to synthetics but I’ve been told by many people in the field that the range has grown massively in the last 15 years or so.

[Ilsme]

mikethair said:

Ilsme said:

Graillotion said:

The Eugenol is not listed twice. The 60 - 95% is the expected range of results, and the 74.70% is the measured result.

Sometimes it’s a case of the blind leading the blind. Customers who don’t understand these documents, and the same applies to ingredient suppliers.

There is Eugenol and Eugenol content (bellow beta-caryophyllene) with two different ranges and different results. If there´s a reason for that I would like to know, as I have not seen that on any ohter CoA of ingredients I work with (essential oils among them). 
  

[Ilsme]

I would ask the supplier to explain this and to give you the information on the list of allergens and the IFRA Conformity Certificate. The later states what is the max concentration you can safely use in your product. Every supplier should be able to give you this information.

[Ilsme]

Graillotion said:

mikethair said:

The allergens analysis in a CoA is important.

Help me learn…as I use some EO’s in a certain project.  When you say allergen analysis in a CofA…. I have not seen such wording.

I will paste an example below…from my supplier.  Does that mean that the TWO items that are listed, those are the probable allergens of the the 67 constituents in that EO?

If so, I did not know that before.

In EU there is a list of 26 allergens you have to declare on LOI if the product contains more then 0,01% (in leave on). I normaly ask for a List of allergens separately cause not all companies put it on the CoA.
I´m not sure why Eugenol is listed twice there on your CoA. To my knowledge Beta Carophyllene is not listed as allergen yet.

[Ilsme]

Graillotion said:

Thank you for your feedback.  To be quite honest…I have not heard of gellan gum.  I do read that there are two versions….low acyl and high acyl.  Which version are you using in cosmetics?

So something like Siligel, which has a very small amount of pullulan…were you still finding pilling?  Did you ever test Siligel?

It is HA Gellan Gum.

I myself haven’t worked with Siligel but I tried my colleagues product. It did pill a lot, I guess other ingrediants could have played a part in it as well. 

I’m looking forward to your feedback if you try Siligel

[Ilsme]

Abdullah said:

@Ilsme how do you compare xanthan gum & gellan gum 8:2 vs Solagum AX at same usage rate suppose 0.5% for skin feel, texture, viscosity and emulsion stability?

At what percentage did you use xanthan gum & gellan gum 8:2?

I didn’t have any instabilities. Gellan gum helps to increase the viscosity comparing to Solagum AX, which gave more stringy cream (or lotion). I see many formulators working with Solagum AX but imo the emulsion just doesn’t look “pretty”.

The percentage I used of the mixture depends on the viskosity I want to achieve.

[Ilsme]

Hi Graillotion, I would say, there are no gums that help texturize same as polymerics, especially if you’d like to have a light cream in a jar. There’s no problem with rich creams.
I also have never tested nice “all natural” bodylotion without polymerics and silicons because the soaping is too bad I just can’t stand it. Unfortunately Germany goes the natural road at the moment: Natrue or Cosmos certified it’s a nightmare.

We’ve tested many natural gums and gellating agents, one combination wich gives a good viscosity and quite nice texture is xanthan gum & gellan gum (80:20). At the moment this is my favorite and works well, I’ve managed to formulate some moisturizers I really enjoy.
There is definitely a synergy between xanthan gum and carrob gum i just haven’t found the right persentage that I would be pleased about. Carrob gum changes the texture with a very small percentage, be carefull there if you try it out.

I wasn’t a fan of Solagum AX, I must say. 
Everything I tested with pullulan in it has a pilling effect but it’s a known for an imediate tightening because of the film forming..

P.S. I must say, I’m fan of yours