[Heath0o7]

Thanks for the tip @Abdullah & @ketchito. I do unfortunately have a sensitive scalp, hence why i created that formula, but thankfully my supplier was able to source AOS for me, so I may swap the carboxylate with it. Should the ASM stay the same?

[Heath0o7]

I’ve decided to fix the formula to:

Distilled water
0.5% Carbomer 20
2.24% Sodium Cocoyl isethionate (1.9%)

Phase B:
10.29% Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate (3.5%)
2.86% Sodium cocoyl glutamate (1%)
3.33% Disodium laureth sulphosuccinate (1%)

Phase C:
4% Cocamidopropyl Betaine (1.2%)
6% Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (ASM 2.1%)
0.38% Tea tree oil

Phase D:
0.3% Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
1% Geogard 221 (pH range 2-7)
1.5% Optiphen (pH 4-8)

Lactic acid (pH adjuster to 6.5)

I hope this formula would be suitable to remove buildup as I read Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate is strong enough to remove buildup like Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate

[Heath0o7]

What if I reduce the ph to 6, would I be able to remove buildup?

[Heath0o7]

@Camel thanks so much for the help!<div>

Just a quick question because I’m not that familiar with BTMS. The supplier recommends using 1/4 of BTMS-80 for whatever % of BTMS-25.l a formula calls for. My question is at what level is BTMS-25 or any other BTMS is affective at producing the effect of anti-frizz and smooth feel? Is 2.5% of BTMS-80 is too much or is it a good amount to trial?

</div>

[Heath0o7]

@Camel thanks for the article and response!

[Heath0o7]

Thanks for the info, I’ll start reading them. Do you think using Niacinamide in a face wash can be beneficial or money will be down the drain? Since a face wash stays in the face not that long

[Heath0o7]

Interesting! So when you say the strength of the surfactant, do you mean the total of the ASM or the strength of each surfactant used in the formula?

I’ve been reading that amphoteric & anionic surfactants can remove silicones and other buildups. However, surfactants like sodium cocoyl isethionate, Disodium laureth sulphosuccinate and sodium cocoyl glutamate are considered mild when it comes to removing buildup which is why it’s good to combine/use either of them with another surfactant. It didn’t specify which type of surfactant to combine it with for it to become effective, whether with amphoteric or anionic surfactant.

[Heath0o7]

Thanks for the info! I can get a different preservative. The options I have are phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol or Geogard ECT?

Also, in terms of these surfactants are they good at removing buildup such as silicones and cationic polymers?

[Heath0o7]

Thanks for your input, that was helpful! I do have Demithicone-500, 350 and a silicone conditioner (demithiconol & cyclomethicone), I could use either of them.

[Heath0o7]

What I meant by hydration is, my hair feels dry and brittle and I was looking for an ingredient to put in a leave-in conditioner that will soften my hair and keep the moisture locked so once my hair dries after shower it remains feeling soft and minimally frizzy. I think to achieve this, I could add 2.5-3% Glycerin, BTMS and Demithicone-500.

I do have couple of questions:

1) to use BTMS in a leave in conditioner, what is the maximum BTMS active you can use? I know with Cetrimonium chloride, it’s no more than 0.25% because of skin irritation.

2) how much Demithicone-500 or 350 should I use? I’ve never formulated with Silicone before

3) Is there a difference between using Demithicone vs demithiconol and cyclomethicone? In rinse off and leave on products.

Thanks, I really appreciated the input

[Heath0o7]

Thank you for explaining how beneficial Niacinamide is for skin. That helped a lot! Do you know if there’s any benefit using it in a leave-in conditioner for hair?

[Heath0o7]

@Perry44 thank you for the clarification. If I was to remove the demithicone and keep the protein in the leave in conditioner, would it provide hydration?

Also, what do you think would be the best solution to reduce frizzyness and brittle hair? Should I keep trialing by increasing the BTMS active till it tames my frizz?

[Heath0o7]

So you think I don’t need a cationic polymer here or glycerin? If removing glycerin, how would I hydrate the cationic guar gum. Unless I use propanediol? Also can you please elaborate on the BTMS:Brassica alcohol ratio. I’m not good at math, so if I’m using 2.5% BTMS, how much Brassica alcohol would I need?

As to CAPB, do you recommend adding it in the water phase not the cool down phase?

[Heath0o7]

Sorry just realized that Montanov 202 is somewhat different to the one you recommend it. I just looked online and I can’t find a local supplier that would sell it and I live in NZ.

[Heath0o7]

I have worked with Montanov 202 once, but the reason why I wanted to try BTMS is because of its cationic conditioning effect on the hair. I have a frizzy hair, so I’m looking for something that detangles, anti-static and makes my hair feel soft when dry as well.

I’m not that familiar with Montanov 202 as I’ve only used it once, but what sort of conditioning does it provide?

[Heath0o7]

Awesome! Much appreciated!