gld010
Forum Replies Created
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What material are your pans? Can your pans rust? What kind of environment are your pans kept in?
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We need to see a list of full ingredients. It could be mold on the sugar, it could be oxidization, who knows.
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Maybe try a “liquid crystal” type emulsifier? They are very easy to work with and you don’t need to worry about HLB calculations. Use less for a thin cream and more for a thick cream. Olivem 1000 or Montanov 68. Use stabilizers like cetearyl alcohol with them.
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I just wanna say this thread is super interesting! The contract manufacturer I work for doesn’t really do hair products so it’s really cool to see in depth discussion like this even if I’m not going to use the information. I’ve enjoyed following you guys’ experiments.
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Titanium Dioxide is a bugger to disperse fully even in a kitchen blender, I feel your pain. Try grinding your white pigment in a mortar and pestle before adding it in to the coffee grinder if your batches are small enough to.
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That’s what I figured. Thanks @Microformulation
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Can’t Shea Butter get grainy sometimes?
I can’t find anything in your IL that’d cause pilling (in my novice-like opinion at least). In my experience, pilling can be caused by xanthan gum or other aqueous thickeners as well as lots of thick silicones (silicone likes to stick to itself which can cause pilling)… -
For our homogenizers we do have a little plastic ring that goes inside the part that is gold (or gold plated, who knows) on yours. Ours isn’t gold, that’s an odd metal to make a part that’s exposed to so much friction as gold tends to be soft.
Maybe you’re missing that plastic inset? I’d shoot them an email. -
“the eye shadow get this wet look and bumps on it”
That sounds like it could be glazing. Does it turn kind of grey ish? If that’s whats happening then you are using too much oil in your formulation. -
If you’re doing color, especially in smaller batches, I’d go for one with 0.001 precision
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Looks like you have a Bentone Gel in there but I can’t tell which one.
Bentone Gel ISD-V has Isododecane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, and Propylene Carbonate while there are a few other bentone gels with cyclopentasiloxane instead of isododecane.Same with Polysilicone-11. Grant Industries has Polysilicone-11 partnered up with cyclopentasiloxane (Gransil GCM-5 and RPS-D6), dimethicone (gransil DM-10 and DM-5), and isododecane (Gransil PCM-10).
It may be hard to narrow down the Dimethicone as well because dimethicone has a lot of varied thicknesses/skinfeels. It could be a slippery dimethicone (which I think is likely given the other ingredients) or a sticky one if this dimethicone is by itself instead of bundled in with other ingredients.
I’m afraid you’re gonna have to sort all this out yourself somehow, do some research on UL Prospector to see which one of everything fits your needs. There are a lot of options and the only things to do are think through it and make some test batches.
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Try Boron Nitride, 10-20%
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Adding oils is always going to change the color, even if just a little bit. This is unavoidable and has been a thorn in my side since I started learning pressed powder formulation- I think I get the color right, add oils, and bam, have to re-adjust or start over. I think you just need to be experienced enough to anticipate how the oil is going to change your colors. I’m definitely not there yet as my main focus has been on emulsions but I’m slowly getting there.
For slip, add silica (5-15%). Take it out of the talc, keep your sericite binder where it is. For a creamy feel, try boron nitride as well.
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This technically isn’t “chi” related but when storing raw materials, keep your acids away from your bases and keep your oxidizers away from the flammables!
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Thanks everyone for your responses! Maybe I’ll give it a shot, it’s not too expensive and my poor flaky face could use some nourishment.
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I see a helpful ghost has edited my post with the LOI! Thank you ghost, when I tried to copy and paste the LOI it pasted in some weird formatting I wasn’t sure how to fix.
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You can also try a wetting agent like C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (liponate NEB, finsolv TN).
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I had a similar issue, my W/Si emulsion concealer had a different drying color. Try Kobo TTB pigments or dispersions: http://www.koboproductsinc.com/Downloads/Kobo-TTB.pdf
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Oh, I had no idea cetearyl alcohol was also used as an emulsifier, I thought both cetearyl and cetyl were used as thickeners and stabilizers. I will keep that in mind @Belassi .
Still, feel free to use your cetyl as a thickener and see what happens.
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Cetearyl and cetyl alcohol both have the same use as a thickener and stabilizer, but the end results can feel different. I typically use it between 0.5% and 2% for both. For something so thick maybe use it at 2-3%?
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Oh, interesting! I did use an ultramarine pink so that is probably it. I will pay attention to pH and adjust as necessary. My only other experience with ultramarines is in powders and not emulsions.
I’ll have to change preservatives because of the sodium benzoate in the Geogard ultra is only effective below pH 6- I’ll have to ask the client what she would prefer.
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Tried a new formula that replaced ethylhexyl stearate with caprylic/capric triglyceride and diisostearyl malate with tridecyl trimellitate and it still stank. I paid more attention this time and the smell comes at the time of emulsion, precicely when I pour the oil into water. Going to try olivem 1000 next.
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This isn’t very, uh, scientific but I have stearic acid in a mascara I make and I do neutralization as the very last step. Before neutralization the mascara looks very rough and bumpy, and after neutralization it’s very smooth and creamy. Very interesting to watch. So there are at least some texture benefits to neutralizing.
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Melt it in your oil phase. It should be neutralized with something alkaline (sodium hydroxide, TEA). It isn’t an emulsifier by itself, it’s more of a thickener and co-emulsifier/stabilizer.
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Check out ulprospector.com for some starting formulas.