GeorgeBenson
Forum Replies Created
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@chemicalmatt Thanks a lot! This is great information.
I am using a little CAPB but less than 10%. Out of curiosity why are amphoterics incompatible with acrylic rheology modifiers?
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Lotioncrafter sells a beaker set for $30, i like it.
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1. Don’t use spring water or tap water, use distilled water.
2. There are a 100 different preservatives to choose from. Do some research and find one that works for you.
3. 1kg of salt?
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@PhilGeis Currently the shampoo is at 5.5 and the conditioner 4.5, but I’m flexible with that so I can bring it to whatever is ideal for optimal preservation.
I always use the extracts right after making them, or freeze them for later use. -
So I made another batch, this time i divided up the water into two parts and mixed one part with pq10 and the other with sci. Combined the sci+water with the rest of the surfactants and then added the pq10+water to that. Did most of this at around 70 C. Seemed to work good, everything is nicely dissolved.
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@Perry thanks for the tip!
Just tried adding some sodium cocoyl isethionate powder to a mixture of PQ10, water, and 100x aloe powder and I instantly got an extremely thick clump of something that formed around the mixing blade! Very hard to get off! Not sure if it was the SCI or the PQ10 but I seem to have caused some
sort of reaction there that is not allowing something to dissolve. Any thoughts? -
Good question, i’ve been wondering the same thing myself. I love working with btms, haven’t had a chance to try chloride yet.
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@Perry @Paprik maybe I’ve just been lucky but mixing fragrances has been great for me so far and it’s always consistent. I love blending to make unique scents that smell amazing.
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@Graillotion I am the same way - out of these 50 samples I’ll be happy if I can come away with one good one. I usually combine 2-4 and make a custom blend.
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@Graillotion wow, thanks for that amazing resource, I went crazy and ordered about 50 different fragrance samples.
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Thanks for the info, I will definitely look into the Poly Suga Mulse
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@Perry Ahhh ok, I was so happy that I had found a fragrance that would solubilize without the need for polysorbate 20, but it looks like I may have to use it after all if I go with this other fragrance. I was trying to avoid using P20 because it thins out my formula and requires me to add a thickener.
Thanks for clearing that up. -
hmm well this is interesting because the bottle I have actually has a slightly different LOI than what I find for it online. My bottle doesn’t have caramel and molasses but it does have sucrose. I’m seeing now that it also has hydrated silica listed so I’m guessing that’s what is giving it the exfoliating effect, not the sugar (or molasses).
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Aloha, I recognized that foliage instantly, and the Ohia trees, you must be in Hawaii! And I’m guessing Big Island, somewhere south of Hilo? Based on the ferns I’m gonna guess Volcano.Sorry don’t mean to be creepy, I just love it when I see encounter other big islanders.
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@perry i am also wondering about your comment on aloe juice. If aloe juice truly
is the largest percentage ingredient, why couldn’t it be placed first on LOI? -
Is there a better way to lower the pH without citric acid?
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Thank you for the suggestions, I will try a few new batches with these changes and hope for the best.
are the miniscule amounts of sodium phytate and citric acid that I use really enough to destabilize the formula?
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That’s kukui OIL, fwiw
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You’ve got me curious about Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Ethylhexyl Isononanoate as well, I’ve never heard of this stuff, what do you like so much about it?
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@Bill_Toge when you say neutralize the polymer, would this mean that when I am first mixing it into water that I adjust that mixture (of water and sf-1) up to pH 7-8, and then after the rest of the formula (surfactants, etc.) is mixed in I adjust it back down to my desired range?
Forgive me I an an idiot with this stuff. Thanks for your help. -
Thanks for the input.
@ketchito is there a material you prefer over aqua sf-1 that also has suspending properties? Is synthalen comparable?
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@ketchito interesting, if that’s the case about the PCA, are there electrolytes in aloe juice that could also be destabilizing the system? I made a new batch yesterday without the PCA so we’ll see how that goes, maybe I should also make one without aloe juice.
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Thank you so much for the reply. I am only using 1.5% PQ-7 (10% active), not sure why it is settling but it definitely does seem to be a gel-like layer on the bottom as you described. I will try taking it out entirely to see if that fixes this, as well as the sodium PCA. Maybe I will increase the polysorbate level as well.
In your opinion, how important are PQ-7 and sodium PCA to the overall feel of this formula? If I take one or both out, are there other things I can replace them with that are maybe more easily incorporated into a formula such as this?
Thanks again, you always provide very informative comments.
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Also, I was previously using xanthan gum as my thickener which seemed to also have the added benefit of suspending mica. I replaced it with the Glucose Sorb because I much prefer it’s overall effect on the product vs xanthan which makes it snot-like. But perhaps I could re-incorporate just a little bit of xanthan, enough to suspend the mica without giving off too much of its snotty consistency to the end product?
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thanks for the input guys, so lack of a stabilizer seems to be my issue then, and even if it doesn’t fix the stearate issue (which i can live without) it should suspend the mica.
Do you know if Synthalen W600 is available for small retail buyers like myself? I noticed the inci for this, acrylates copolymer, is the same as carbapol aqua sf-1, are they the same? Unfortunately I have not found anything with this INCI being sold by any of the usual websites i buy from.
I currently have sepimax zen and Acrylates C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer on hand, could either of these work for stabilizing a body wash formula?I am currently using Glucose-Sorb from making cosmetics as my thickener, fwiw.
Thanks!