[DreaNkenna]

esthetician922 said:

I have a formula calling for peg 12 but can’t find it anywhere to buy from my usual suppliers. Is there a huge difference between it and regular dimethicone?

If the formula is clear then I wouldn’t swap them out (the dimethicone will make it hazy and possible completely separate out), but if it is like a cream or pearlized then I think either would work.

[DreaNkenna]

You may be right. I connected with evonik today and a sales rep said it could be because I’m at the end of the sample, but im not sure if she was just guessing lol. I’m going to pull COAs for my surfactants and check salt content and pH. I changed lots this week so I’m leaning towards that being the variable.

[DreaNkenna]

Well unfortunately I am under an NDA so even if no one wants this formula I cannot share. Believe it or not this is one of my customers best sellers that they sell several million units of it annually. Curly coarse curl patterns tend to be naturally dry and benefit greatly frum cationic/conditioning agent rich products…even shampoos. These products tend to be tricky because conditioning shampoos are a bit of an oxymoron. Either way thanks for the advise. I’ve already decreased the egds to below 0.25%

[DreaNkenna]

I ditched the Acrylimide cationic and opted for polyquat-10 instead. I also got rid of the cold process pearlizer and went to regular glycol disterate. I am just now trying to hone in on a consistent thickener. I can’t believe how hard doing this has been.

[DreaNkenna]

Perry said:

I had this same problem with a pearl system years ago. Using a Carbomer (EDT 2020 I think), that helped suspend the pearl and kept the formula stable.

Ok that actually makes sense. Do you think this woudl effect the overall rheology?

[DreaNkenna]

ketchito said:

@DreaNkenna Could you describe precisely what you’re experiencing as phase separation? If you have sedimentation, that can be your pearlizer not having enough support to be suspended (Versathix doesn’t give much resistance to shear). If you see creaming (a white layer on top), that might be the acrylamide opacifier.

hmm ok. well at about 6 months there is creamy at the top, but by 12 months  the sediment has fallen to the bottom. Honestly, the product still appears to be pearlized a bit, so the acrylamide may be the issue

[DreaNkenna]

Perry said:

The number one thing to do is to get rid of the oils.
Shampoos are supposed to clean hair which means remove oils.
Putting an oil in your formula is just making it a less effective shampoo & leads to separation.

Oils are in at negligible levels. Basically the whole phase D is there as callouts.

[DreaNkenna]

Sure.

I cant share % but I can provide the materials used

PHASE A
-DEIONIZED WATER,
-ACRYLAMIDE. ACRYLAMIDE/COPOLYMER

PHASE B
-PRESERVATIVE 

PHASE C
-COCAMIDOPROPYL HYDROXYSULTAINE
-POLYQUATERNIUM 7
-ACETAMIDE MEA
-SODIUM C14-16 OLEFIN SULFONATE

PHASE D
-PERSEA GRATISSIMA ( AVOCADO ) OIL
-HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN
-PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS OIL 

PHASE E
-GLYCOL DISTEARATE (AND) LAURETH-4 (AND)COCOAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE -PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide (and) Water,