DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
Forum Replies Created
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@doctorbrenda The manufacturer uses transesterification of the methyl esters with stearyl alcohol because it a cost effective process.The former are likely derived from vegetable oil as an inexpensive feedstock and easily transesterified and or reacted with other compounds to use for other industrial applications We used to make alkanolamides from the methyl esters to get higher yields.See scheme 15 in article below:(rest is good reading also)
http://jbcs.sbq.org.br/imageBank/PDF/v9n3a02.pdf -
I will start this off and sure you willl get many comments. Esterification is based on Stochiometry using equimolar amounts of each component so cetyl pamitate(CP) which you mention is formed using one mole of palmitic acid (256 parts by weight) which reacts with one mole of cetyl alcohol (242 parts by wt,) to provide 480 parts of CP. During the reaction (which is acid catalized usually H2SO4) one mole of water (18 parts by weight is lost) to yield 480 parts by weight of he CP ester.During the process the acid portion loses one H and the alcohol loses OH to account for the water; so the acid portion of the CA provides 255 parts by weight or 53,1% and the alcohol or cetyl portion contributes 46.9%.This will vary depending upon the molecular weights of each of the components employed which are combined via the law of Mass action in fixed stochiometric ratio.I think I will stop here and let others weigh in.
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I don’t think you could get build-up as it appears you have hydrophobic exhaustion to skin due to isostearyl moiety on the silicone backbone.Usually build up does not come from an exhaustive process but rather is due to charge effects: it (build-up) results from coacervation.You can test this via making a 10% solution (shower conc) and let sit o/n and centrifuge or look closely for a separate layer on the bottom —-if there is nothing then not likely coacervation and build-up potential.
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Lactic acid is a natural by product of energy expenditure ie metabolism and when produced by the body via exercising /muscle contractions and so on is released via body fluids and as such can be viewed as an inside___outside process which although chemically similar to added lactic acid, which is an outside—inside process, appears to behave differently as the latter promotes irritation while the former does not in so far as we know.
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We are located in the US NJ).One liter is quite enough and contact info is on website http://www.verdient.biz/ or direct drbob@verdient.biz
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Rates probably vary, as for example for our clients we do complete accelerated stability at same rate for formulation as it is part of the process.Points are 50C four weeks—38 C 3 months and ambient RT 2 years:also 6 cycles of freeze/thaw-We-monitor Phase stability-PH-Viscosity-color and odor for Cosmetic Lotions/Creams.Stability report-Preliminary Specifications for scale-up.
Six cycles of F/T plus 4 weeks at 50C is enough to get product going.We double check using two person make/sign/witness on scale up (Liter Batches) for both safety and preservation. -
not enough information to help browning problem.What is ingredient list?
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Stability is important and if they have to go a third party, there are likely hidden charges.Also you will not own formula they will but you can easily duplicate it if they go out of business.What about safety and preservation?
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THe 607 L predominantly C12 would be bactericidal whereas the C18 would be more for Conditioning/antistat i.e. Fly away on hair.Could be used on skin keeping that in mind.
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citric acid is obviously for Ph? Agree with John as why the need for decorative spheres which if plastic can only be deleterious to the product.Can you tell us reason for cooing gel?
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Polyunsaturated fatty acids such as squalene, present in sebum are highly comedogenic as are fatty acids with conjugated double bonds such as linolenic acid.Peroxidation of the latter in the presence of light and oxygen is rapid.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4756869/ -
I don’t think the use of either methyl lactate or lactic acid is advisable for a vaginal product, one cools and the other irritates/stings.
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You are likely forming slush after use which means water is unevenly distributed throughout the bar.The germall as a result is not evenly distributed ie. Homogeneous and as a result ineffective. Under the conditions not likely any preservative will work.
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Do a knockout starting with C-wax.What is your process?
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We can assume your payoff on wet hair to make a 10% solution which would provide 5% BTMS ((in use) if you reduced it to 50% which should be okay.Raise cetyl alcohol and butters proportionately.Have you made the bar yet?
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visit our website verdient.biz
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Just use glycerin.Do you do the cheek test for pseudoplasticity?
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adding too much salt is like washing your hair with salt water and dries hair and skin:
would not exceed 1.5% NaCl -
Why so much BTMS? Could be severe eye irritant. I think you don’t need preservative as bar is anhydrous. You may also need a plastizisor such as maltodextrin.Alao neeeds slip so add a silicone
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changes things ! Can you get cellulosics like Natrasol 250HHR (hydroxyethyl cellulose) ? what else do you have in formula?
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SOunds like contact dermatitis or allergenic reaction as Mark said.Does not seem like irritation.
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yes you can use Sepigel 305 which is based on an amide (see INCI below) and stable over ph range of 3-10.Carbopols are acrylic acid terpolymers which have to to be neutralized above 5 to remain in solution to build viscosity and stabilize the emulsion. ;if ph drops in storage below 5 the Carbopol reverts to acid form again which drops out of solution causing loss in viscosity and destabilizes emulsion.
INCI Name:Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7
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If you use Ultrez 30 at PH 5 you are likely to get instability in storage as the former is borderline unless you buffer but even then anticipate stability problems.Why not use a Simugel INS with xanthan gum-no ph worrries.?:
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If you get a basic Organic Chemistry book you will see that esters, of the type you mention, regardless of charge are subject to a first order hydrolysis as a result of nucleophilic attack by OH ions on the alkaline side at the electrophilic C=O (carbonyl group which attaches both acid and alcohol potions of the ester molecule. .On the other hand sulphuric acid esters such as sodium lauryl sulfate are subject to hydrolysis on the acid side via a similar mechanism.The latter are carbon to oxygen bonds ie C- O-SO3 bonds(sulpguric acid esters): carbon inked directly to S bonds ie C-SO3 such as LABS and oelifin sulfonates are not affected by to that extent by Ph This is only the tip of the iceberg so take a course.
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what is the Ph of your product?