Doreen
Forum Replies Created
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@Chemist77
True! :blush:
If the ‘actives’ don’t pass double-blind placebo controlled studies, I’m suspicious of the so called beneficial claims. We practice science, not magic. -
@Belassi
Maybe this is an interesting document. It’s about trimethylglycine (betain) which I mentioned, for solubilizing salicylic acid and allantoin. -
The ratio between the different ceramides also seems to be important.
@Perry
I agree. A while ago I bought SK Influx (Evonik Industries). I couldn’t tell a difference from the moisturizer that didn’t have it.
To be honest I have that with most ‘skin actives’.
I’ve mad a skin lightening moisturizer for a friend with several supposed brightening actives (Dermofeel Enlight and PhytoTrace Saffran), but so far I still haven’t heard about ‘spectacular’ results on the hyperpigmentated skin parts. -
@Bill_Toge & @Perry
Thanks! :blush: -
What type/brand carbomer do you use?
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@arachne013
There is nothing wrong with asking questions and the level you’re at really doesn’t matter! It is obvious that you are a beginner and there’s nothing wrong with that or the questions that come with it. It’s just that some people seem ashamed of it and act like they have quite some experience. This was my point. There’s no need to ‘prove’ yourself.I still see myself as a beginner. That and I will never even reach the level of the scientists on here because I’m a homecrafter, not a cosmetic scientist and that’s ok.
I’ve been ‘formulating’ and preparing concoctions for about 5 years now. I’ve learnt a lot in those years, but still have a whole lot more to learn.
I’ve made dermatological preparations for years when I was a pharmacy technician, but that’s very different (standardized protocols instead of formulating and experimenting).
Since I’m a pharmacy practitioner I don’t prepare anymore, that’s when I started homecrafting (I still miss preparing aseptic/sterile medication however). -
@Perry
Agreed!@ozgirl
You’re welcome, good luck! -
@arachne013
No offence, but I thought you wrote your skills in formulating were intermediate? If you would have intermediate experience in ‘colour’ cosmetics I think you would have had the basic knowledge to your first question.Really there’s no need to apologize. What is it today that people seem ashamed to admit they are beginners?
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I always neutralise at the end (when there’s no more need for high shear).
This to avoid damage to the structure which can cause an irreversible viscosity drop. -
@JOJO91343
Why do you react to a thread from 2013? -
I don’t know if it’s already mentioned, but I use trimethylglycine (betaine) as a solubilizing aid for both salicylic acid and allantoin. Also a big plus: betaine is great for the skin. I haven’t used it in combination with surfactants yet.
I use 1.5-2% of betaine with 2% salicylic acid and I haven’t had any precipitation problems anymore (I also no longer use sodium citrate).
I’ve also used 1.5% betaine with 1.5% allantoin, it works great! -
The advantage is that the carbomer doesn’t hydrate yet, so it easier to disperse. I don’t understand what you mean with carbomer migration?
The carbomer starts hydrating as soon as the phases are combined. -
@Microformulation
Indeed it is. Sad but true… -
* I mean you would saVe much more money
You’re welcome!
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I think toners are a marketing product mostly.
The whole ‘preparing your skin for the moisturizer’-blabla is just marketing technique and customers will believe this nonsense. Same with ‘facial mists’.Most skin care lines that estheticians use do have nice toners. Toners from department stores and drug stores, in my opinion, are unnecessary.And what exactly is so special about the first ones that makes the difference between these?
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@Microformulation Working with Retinol and MAP is a tricky advanced Formulator skill. This is not likely a DIY or home product.
Agreed. And yet I see many homecrafters messing around with these.
You would safe much more money if you left these out instead of the allantoin.
The fruit extracts in the LOI that you mention aren’t there for flavouring by the way. You’ll likely just taste the licorice salt that’s in it (which is sweet). -
1,5% NaOH seems like an awful lot. Have you checked the pH? Do you use NaOH in powder form, or a dilution?
10% of fatty alcohols also seem a lot to me.
You don’t use preservatives? -
@Chemist77
@Bobzchemist and @Iaskedbetter have put up a very good list of forum rules in that thread.
I think these do apply here very well:@Shubh123 , Disha
“1) Do not request complete/finished formulations.
The best way to get help on this forum is to show that you actually need help and are not trying to use us to do work for you. With that, if you have an existing formula that isn’t working out, post it and ask for some feedback on your problem. If you don’t have a formula, do some research and try to come up with one yourself first. If it doesn’t work out, then ask for help or feedback.”“1) Please do not ask us to do your lab work (or your research) for you.
Do not request complete/finished formulations unless you have already looked at the sources for that information and found nothing helpful. If you show up out of nowhere and start asking for extensive help, or otherwise demonstrate that you don’t want to do any work yourself, you just aren’t going to get what you are looking for. It is obvious most times when people have tried to do research and just need a hand or when they are looking for someone to do all the work for them for free.” -
@Chemist77
You mean this one?No it’s a discussion about creating one I see.
I don’t know if one has been made in the mean time?Good idea by the way. I totally agree.
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You need to hire and pay a formulator for that. You can’t get formulas just for free here.
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@Microformulation
Agreed! Interesting and oftentimes very helpful. -
To be honest, I don’t really judge the emulsifiers on moisturizing properties. Lately I’m busy experimenting with polymeric emulsifiers like Pemulen TR-1 and TR-2. (I also noticed that if you use (only) one of these, you can put a 0% emulsifier claim on your product. Might be attractive for an ultrasensitive product, people that react badly to classic emulsifiers.
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I found an interesting article on The Beauty Brains, hopefully it is helpful for you:
http://thebeautybrains.com/2007/12/7-sure-ways-to-straighten-your-hair/ -
1,5% NaOH seems like an awful lot. Have you checked the pH? Do you use NaOH in powder form, or a dilution?
10% of fatty alcohols also seem a lot to me.
You don’t use preservatives? -
Hi Lisa,
- I have no experience with rosemary as antioxidant, I use BHT (0,1%) or tocopherol (0,05-0,2%). BHT is a much stronger antioxidant than tocopherol (vitamin E). Tocopherols have the problem that they can be pro oxidizing in higher concentrations, so best use low levels to inhibit rancidity.
Tocopherols are usually in a mixture with a carrier oil. There are products that don’t have soy oil in it. I have this one right now, it’s a mixture of tocopherols with sunflower oil. The problem with mixtures is that you oftentimes don’t now the exact concentration, in this one it’s at least 70%.
- About preservation. It depends on the anhydrous type of product if you need preservation or not. Take for example a lipstick, molds especially can grow on the surface where it will come in contact with the lips.
I think the same goes for any anhydrous product that can come in contact with water and/or skin. Keep in mind that there are always microbes on your hands, even after cleaning and drying (commensal bacteria). It’s best to choose packaging where there is no contact between skin and product.Good luck!