

Doreen
Forum Replies Created
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Where do you get fluoride salts?
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@Biochemist
(about the Terminator II referral: I forgot it was the other Terminator guy who was liquid (metal), lol!) -
Doreen
MemberJuly 16, 2018 at 4:03 pm in reply to: Has anyone reacted parabens with Sodium hydroxide to make paraben Sodium salts?Great! Keep us updated!
@Belassi
Agreed! -
@Dr
You know what because there are no emphasis or tone when your writing things can be taken out of context.?True. Communication by text alone can cause misunderstandings, especially when the language used isn’t your mother language.
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@Biochemist
Thanks for tagging me, lol!!! Liquid German, reminds me somehow of Terminator II. :joy: :joy: -
@Dr
I never wrote that phenoxyethanol isn’t a good preservative?
I love it, I use it all the time combined with parabens and ethylhexylglycerin.
But on itself it isn’t strong on mold/yeast. -
@”DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ”
No problem!I’ve also had a few times that my name was tagged, but I didn’t get a notification.
Glad to see you also don’t put it in the cool down! I’ve never had problems with allantoin either, well up to now maybe (the ‘gritty deodorant’ discussion). But maybe that was due to a too fast cool down.
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Btw: the cool down was rather quick (put in fridge, I was in a hurry) :grimace:
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@Biochemist
That would be awesome! @Belassi ‘s writings have made me spill my morning tea several times. :joy: -
@Biochemist @Belassi
Exactly. It’s amazing how much benefit people think they get from specific oils. Prickly pear oil for example, insanely expensive and therefore its powers must be magical, nearly divine, even more so than argan. IT’S JUST OILS for heaven’s sake, not a miracle drug. Just oils with a different fatty acid profile, a very low level of oil soluble vitamins and that’s about it. -
@Perry
You’re welcome! -
Doreen
MemberJune 19, 2018 at 10:12 am in reply to: Do big-name formulators dissolve parabens in water, since they don’t list any propylene glycol?Agree with Belassi, methyl paraben for example is water soluble, so doesn’t need it. Maybe some of the other parabens are only sparingly soluble in water and maybe because only minute concentrations are used of say butyl paraben, isobutyl etc, no PG is needed?
Or perhaps they disperse it in another polyol?edit: I’ve spoken too soon, I’m not one of the knowledgeable/experienced here, sorry! :#
I’m curious what they have to say too, as I had a solubilisation issue with Germaben II recently. -
I’ve got an answer on my question (below the formula in the first post ^ , after ‘edit’)
“Allantoin is an amphoteric molecule. It can have a positive charge under acidic conditions, but could only have a negative charge under very basic conditions. Betaine on the other hand can only have a positive charge under very acidic conditions, and it’s usually present as a zwitterion (both anionic and cationic charges at the same time, with a net carge of zero). It could never be anionic since it has a permanent positive charge. At the pH of 5.32, allantoin is cationic, so it might actually interact with the anionic emulsifier. You basically suspend allantoin due to its low solubility and recrystallization risk. Incorporation into an emulsion during the cool down phase is done in the same way as you do with many other ingredients, only that you need vigorous mixing.”
I accidently put this underneath some of my other discussions, but it’s about this emulsion. So the minor problems I had could indeed be due to the allantoin interacting with the GMS citrate.
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p.s. About the pH of 5.32: this was the pH of the emulsion with the allantoin, betaine and glyceryl stearate citrate I had made. So there’s nothing important about this exact pH, only that it’s acidic and allantoin is indeed cationic when in an acidic product.
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Hi!
I’v got answers on my questions above and would like to share it, hopefully it might be of help for you too.
About suspending allantoin to a lipophilic product: this is probably useful indeed. Apparently it doesn’t need to be in a dissolved state per se for it’s soothing properties. I have attached the document with the lipophilic treatment stick with 1% allantoin formula (on page three).
Here is the answer I got:
“Allantoin is an amphoteric molecule. It can have a positive charge under acidic conditions, but could only have a negative charge under very basic conditions. Betaine on the other hand can only have a positive charge under very acidic conditions, and it’s usually present as a zwitterion (both anionic and cationic charges at the same time, with a net carge of zero). It could never be anionic since it has a permanent positive charge. At the pH of 5.32, allantoin is cationic, so it might actually interact with the anionic emulsifier. You basically suspend allantoin due to its low solubility and recrystallization risk. Incorporation into an emulsion during the cool down phase is done in the same way as you do with many other ingredients, only that you need vigorous mixing.”
So the minor pilling issues I had recently, could indeed be due to the allantoin interacting with the glyceryl stearate citrate. -
@Belassi
:joy: :joy:@Makeup2018
Please read the forum guidelines. Then you might also understand Belassi’s replies.1) Please do not ask us to do your lab work
(or your research) for you. Do not request complete/finished formulations
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different if you’re a professional chemist than they will if you are a DIY
kitchen formulator or if you are a small business.6)
When
asking about specific chemicals, use standard CTFA/INCI nomenclature AND trade
names, and be as specific as possible. Please don’t make us have to look
information up ourselves if we don’t need to. When asking about alternatives
or replacements for a raw material, please include at least the following info: the reason you want to replace the
chemical, the purpose the chemical is serving in the current formulation, the
type of formula it is, and any other attributes that need to be maintained in
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buy 200kg drums of xxxx from a supplier the USA if you are are only making 200
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Doreen
MemberJune 18, 2018 at 4:30 pm in reply to: Vitamin C serum (L-AA) and self tanner similarities@Biochemist
You’re welcome. I have ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate now too! (Nikkol VC-IP), so much better! -
I had the same question, it was answered in this discussion:
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/4114/information-anti-oxidants
@ChemicalPyros
“as for the synergy between BHT and vitamin E, in some conditions it ca be found, but in most conditions they have a degrading effect on each other. (Dramatic solvent effect on the synergy between a-tocopherol and BHT antioxidants).” -
@Microformulation
Regarding the Dermofeel PA-3: I read that it’s not the best chelant as some bacterial species are capable of phytase synthesis. -
@Sibech
No, there wasn’t a self tanner involved. @johnb has helped me with this and concluded that a Maillard reaction has taken place, with L-AA as reducing sugar. I’ve searched several sites/forums and I see more women complaining about their vitamin C serum (only with L-AA, not a stable ester), whether it’s an expensive brand or home made. The same complaints: the staining, the smell. @johnb explained that in these cases it was possible due to the high dose of L-AA (to have the Maillard taken place without heat, or only body warmth).So it might not be such a good (temporarily) whitening ingredient after all. :joy:
p.s. You’re right! DHAA as self tanner. I remember! Some brand tried to have it patented.
But doesn’t that mean that in the case of the vitamin C serums triggering Maillard reactions, that somehow there is DHAA present, one way or the other?Hey… I haven’t seen this link before. I don’t know if this is right, but it looks interesting:
https://labmuffin.com/vitamin-c-can-stain-skin-avoid/
@vanne
I’m sorry for hijacking your post! I’ll quit here and start a new thread if I have more![misc] Every Vitamin C Serum that I use tends to smell like wet dog on my skin... Is this an issue for anyone else?
byu/AtrophicSPIN inSkincareAddiction