[Dirtnap1]

The dark red spots are interesting. But unfortunately my experience is extremely limited. Could it be something in your base not completely mixed or emulsified pulling the red dye into it?

[Dirtnap1]

I personally use tanks from http://www.maxantindustries.com/bottling.html
The owners are great to work with.
Their bottling tanks are what I use for my company and they come in a wide range of sizes. All water jacketed for even heating. 

[Dirtnap1]

I’ve never made a product of this type, so I can’t be of much help in that department unfortunately. 
I would suggest trying another small batch and see if it continues to happen. Double check that all weights/measurements are correct and consistent as in your other batches. Same with product setup/cool-down etc. 

I can see if too much oil was added the mica could have separated a bit more than usual.

What does it look like under the center top portion? Darker red or consistent light color?

Do you mix your micas before use? It’s possible if you are scooping from the top without mixing you are getting into layers with darker/lighter weight micas. Or if you add more/new mica to existing mica, could be slightly different. Just a thought. 

[Dirtnap1]

Looks like migration of the mica to me. Could be separation of darker mica within the batch. Depending on quality of mica, may have some iron in it causing the darker “rust” coloration. 

[Dirtnap1]

Coco fiber. Can find it at most hydroponics stores. Or is the bulking agent not to retain water? 

[Dirtnap1]

Waxes and oils together, these would include the Peg 40 HCO and Peg 7 Glyc coco.

Water phase would be the VG, clay and water. Pre-wet clay in water then add VG after clay has mixed with water to avoid clumping of clay. Heat both phases then incorporate water phase into oil or vise versa. You will need to mix well as clay tends to settle. You also need a preservative.

[Dirtnap1]

Automated or smaller hand processing machines? Racelabel has some great machines. 

[Dirtnap1]

There’s no saying. You will have to play with it and experiment. Iv’e been in development of a couple matte products myself and they are a little tricky to get right.
Peg 7 Glyc Coco is a bit expensive, so I would cut that in half at least. But really depends on the formula and how it feels to you. 
The more PVP you use, the more the product will flake. I use 1.5% max in my formulas. 
Peg 8 beeswax can be used for a fixative/thickener. There are also many different fixatives on the market VP/VA, PVP/VA and products from companies like Lubrizol if you have a rep for them in your area.

[Dirtnap1]

Esters. Many different types. Would need to research them. 

[Dirtnap1]

Pre wet clay. Break up into multiple water phases. Ex Phase A 45g water
Phase B 5g water/4g clay etc.

Clay does not mix with oil. It will sit at the bottom of your vessel/clump so you need to incorporate with a blender into water phase. Once emulsified with all phases continue to mix to disperse clay until it cools enough.

10% VG seems a bit high for a humectant. May be your reason your formula seemed greasy and not holding.

[Dirtnap1]

No.
You will need a fragrance as you are essentially creating mud. The natural minerals in the clay are what you are smelling. No way to hide it unless you use less clay. Even then you will still smell the clay, just not as strong. 

[Dirtnap1]

Thank you, Das and Belassi.
I will look into some of those as you have suggested. Truly appreciate the advice.
Certainly not all Acrylates C10-30 are created equal. 

[Dirtnap1]

Depends on your fragrance. But I would start at .4%-.5% and stay under 1% for most hair products. 

Yeah, it’s really going to come down to that fine line on proportions for the hold. Lubrizol makes some great fixatives if you have a rep in your country. 

[Dirtnap1]

My secret weapon has been Kester wax k-24 at small amounts. Gives a nice silicone/velvety slip without being greasy. Definitely has a fairly high waxy scent to it, so need to be careful how much you add depending on fragrance.

[Dirtnap1]

I don’t see anything wrong with the formula, but it’s completely dependent on how you feel about it once it’s formulated. Be careful on preservatives as many are heat sensitive.

The clumping may also be the cet-25 as it is a picky SOB. 

You also need a fragrance unless you are not planning to do so. 

[Dirtnap1]

Aldy- I have never used a starch. Only clays such as kaolin and small amounts of bentonite clay in my hair products. Kaolin adds a very nice velvety slip and adds some texture. 

What are your goals with this formula? Texturizing matte finish? Slick matte finish? Natural sheen etc?

Use the stick blender to incorporate the starch into the water phase, but do try slowly blending when adding each part either by hand or another mixing blade. Stick blender will incorporate air as others have stated.

Try slowly mixing the water phase into the oil phase and see if that helps. You need to continue blending while you are adding each phase or it will clump. 

Add starch/clay to water and let self wet. Then mix before adding PvP/acrylates as they may combine with the starch causing clumping. 
Just my suggestion.

[Dirtnap1]

You would need to adjust the percentages to make up for anything you omit/reduce. QS the water until you get it to where you want consistency wise. 

There are some online batch calculators to help figure out the weights/percentages. Do a quick google search for those. This will help when trying to get your total batch/formula to 100%

Kaolin would replace the starch. But I have mixed a few clays together in some formulas, so again, trial and error with ratios.

Can you give some info on how you are mixing and what size test batches you are running? What temps, type of mixer etc.

[Dirtnap1]

Any particular reason you are using cet-25? I would simplify and use cet-20. Lower lanolin a bit as it is taking away from the hold of the polymers and adding gloss if you are going for a matte finish. Lanolin wax may be a better option for thickening and adding less gloss. Or remove completely. Try kaolin clay as well. 

The dub-340 (had to look it up) may also be creating the wet/creamy look you are seeing when mixed with the other emulsifiers. Play around with the ratios and water may be a bit high. Try reducing water until it thickens. 

1.5% of PVP is the max I use in my formulas to thicken. 

Do a search here for posts by Bill_Toge he has posted some formulations he uses which may help steer you in the right direction as well. 

Take my word with a grain of salt. I am no chemist by any means. Just a hobbiest that started my own line with the help of the chemists here on this forum. 

[Dirtnap1]

Trial and error. Its the name of the game. 

[Dirtnap1]

Yes, we would need list of ingredients used and their percentages to really give any helpful info.

[Dirtnap1]

We own a couple barber shops here in the states, and pomades are continuing to be a HUGE business. Especially what we call home brew/micro brew pomades. California especially. Huge market for them. 

Thus why I have been educating myself and started my own line.
I do have a formula a bit similar to this, and it is nice.

What is it about this formula you have specific questions/concerns about? 

My biggest issue is getting the right consistency that will not weigh the hair down, and not be too tacky to apply while maintaining hold throughout the day.
A very small amount of carbomer that is not neutralized to thicken has worked well for me to add slip and to help with dispersion/emulsifying in hands before applying. 
koster-keunen  has been a huge help to us with different waxes and emulsifiers.

[Dirtnap1]

White/Yellow beeswax is the same thing. White is refined while yellow is not as refined/filtered.
Peg-8 beeswax will aid in washout and not build up in hair as much, but will still have the thickening/holding characteristics as normal beeswax.

Try adding a little carbomer to the formula and see how you like it.

[Dirtnap1]

Only thing I can mention is that your formula may be a little harder to wash out/build up with normal beeswax. Peg-8 may be a better choice for easier wash out.

[Dirtnap1]

In my formulations with PVP, I have always added it to the water phase first thing along with fixative and heated to 82c-87c/180f/190f then mixed with oil phase. I’ve also done a one pot, mixing water and oil phases together and bringing to temp.

As Bill stated, it is pretty heat resistant.

[Dirtnap1]

Yeah, I guess the scent could be described as more of a formaldehyde rather than sulphurous. But I had never encountered this scent using DMDM in other products until this formula. 

Any suggestions on a preservative(s) that are not too heat sensitive and neutral scent?

Thanks, Bill.