DiamondD
Forum Replies Created
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Look up <USP 51> PET tests that should give you an idea of the industry standard of preservative challenge testing.Lots of resources out there on Water Activity and its relationship to microbial activity.If this is not going on skin you could always lower the pH below 3.5 and call it a day.Look into the pH environments for bacterial and fungal growth. I’m not going to quote the windows, but very low or very high pH is not friendly to microbes in general. -
Approximately is your friend.I don’t know the Monographs well enough to even give a general bit of advice like -/+ 10%, but I do know that companies are given some freedom to set there range of specification on Active Ingredients.Stoichiometry is what you need to do, and it’s my favorite.1.) Define your diluent. What is going to be the bulk of you formula, water, oil, alcohol, isododecane, etc. (hell if you have a formula base already in mind use that)2.) Determine the diluent of formula base without actives density. A single ingredient may have a literature value, but always test yourself, and keep your temperatures consistent.3.) Tare an empty vessel on a scale, then collect 10 or more metered sprays of the diluent or active free formula into that vessel.4.) With the average weight per spray and the known density, you’ll easily find the volume per spray.5.) By using the diluent or active free formula base you could assume little change in the volume per spray with the addition of the active.6.) Keep in mind that if you active is a soluble solid it will likely increase the density of your solution.7.) Perform a specific gravity check on a solution you believe through calculation will deliver the 10 mg of active per average spray volume.8.) With your new test formula again collect 10 or more sprays and find the average weight per spray, and determine if the average volume per spray has changed. Hopefully not much. Then you have an approximate dosage per spray so long as your packaging is consistent and qualified.9.) Repeat this on enough duplicate sprayers that would justify the “metered sprayers” are reliable and consistent in their volume per spray.10.) Put that formula on accelerated stability, and if it fails start over easy peasy.Good Luck
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The general response I’ve received from each of the Raw Material Vendors is this:“To clean such residue, I usually start with hot water, detergent, and a
brush. If there is still residue then I would wipe it off with isopropyl
alcohol.”After hearing this at first.[Mental Midget Inner-monologue]: “Wow! Soap with hot water, Holy cow I would have never thought of that… and rubbing alcohol, jeez what a break through.”But then,[Sensible Professional Inner-monologue]: “Ok let’s try the strongest detergent we have…. Hey, that’s actually not bad.”I
must admit I had to switch from Dawn
Dish Soap to straight powdered Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and water to get a good cleaning.However there is still certain glassware which remains foggy.I’m going to have to chalk this up to the 3M “Scratch-Free” sponges altering the surface of the once virgin glass. Or, perhaps
the Aminopropyl Dimethicone being particularly insoluble a
slight residue will always persist.In either case I’m not worried about cleaning Stainless Steel, or any risk
of a slight residue transferring into other future batch
formulas.Kind Regards
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What is the purpose of this formula?
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I don’t know about the precipitation, but I can say it tends to turn yellow rather quickly. So if it’s a white cream is what you are after. That might be difficult.
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Instantly Ageless has used a Sodium Silicate, Magnesium Silicate combination. Finding the ratio that doesn’t dry up and look powdery on the skin is a huge long trail and error process.
They may also have a patent on their ratio formula.
Packaging is also an issue, as single serving are best to avoid the dried caking effect on the dispensing orifice.
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@Doreen I have a few questions.
(1) Is you understanding of ‘in-can’ protection a definition of adding/spiking a bulk raw material with an antioxidant while in inventory storage? Say a drum of Safflower Oil is spiked with an Anti-oxidant after opening to help keep the remaining bulk of the Safflower Oil Fresh as it is slowly partitioned in production batching?
(2) What is your understanding of Tocopheryl Acetate USP aka DL-alpha-tocopherol acetate. I’m in a bit of a quandary on what temperature to commit to adding it to my formulas. The BASF Tech Data Sheet always has it added at the back end below 40C with preservatives and fragrance.
I personally always thought of it as an oil and best put in the hot oil phase. But I think it might work against me in some cases (i.e. Hair Conditioner vs. Massage Cream vs. Anti-Aging Lotion)
Any literate or tech sheets you might be able to point to would be greatly appreciated.
Best of Luck
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Just something worth trying. Guar Gum aka Activsoft S or Jaguar S.
It’s Natural, its pretty electrolyte tolerant.
I made the switch after a several attempts with Crothix. The essential Oils I have been required to use have been tricky to keep stable.
The Activsoft S should do you right.
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FYI SoCal is a hot bed of employment opportunities in our field.
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Perhaps because that it is more effective pound for pound that BC.
http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2009/11/guide-to-using-ingredients.html
