Forum Replies Created

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  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 27, 2019 at 10:41 pm in reply to: What to do when you can’t find an INCI

    IN this case you get some results by googleing  “apple cider vinegar INCI”  otherwise you ask your supplier for a document as Mark stated above.

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    December 18, 2018 at 2:59 pm in reply to: Hair Growth Oil

    @Perry -yeah, that makes sense I guess. It would however be great if people could publish also “negative” results. This would correct the bias.
     

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    December 17, 2018 at 10:27 pm in reply to: Hair Growth Oil

    I agree the peppermint oil paper/research has flaws, but what buggles me is: who would spend vast resources to really prove that something that you can buy in the supermarket works as good as a patented molecule for a given medical application?

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    December 17, 2018 at 9:45 pm in reply to: Micellar Water Another weird LOI

    @Sibech -yes, good point - however only L’oreal would know. It is for sure not an ingredient.
    My guess is FIL# = formulation ingredient list number, used as a double check to get the LOI correct

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    December 17, 2018 at 9:16 pm in reply to: Fizzy emulsion - ways to avoid fizz

    Glyoxylic Acid (in combination with TMS) would be the primary suspect using the information given.
    Alternatively, find a driven salesperson, call it fizzy emulsion and you might get rich!

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    December 11, 2018 at 7:58 pm in reply to: Scaling up a formula from 100g to 2,000g
  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    December 3, 2018 at 7:11 pm in reply to: Lip Balm has bitter taste

    It is more likely that benzyl benzoate is an allergene from the perfume, and not added extra as preservative.
    HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL is not the same thing as PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, I haven’t tasted them though. 🙂

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 26, 2018 at 9:56 pm in reply to: low irritant 80 % of total actives are CAPB

    Cosmetic formulating is often about synergies between ingredients and optimising mixtures. It is not at all surprising that mixing two irritant ingredients together can give mildness as a result.

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 26, 2018 at 9:37 pm in reply to: Clay Pomade Help

    @natzam44
    When replicating a formula always start with the same ingredients. You can’t make chicken soup using porc. You can however create something new which may be more interesting!

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 26, 2018 at 9:10 pm in reply to: What makes a cosmetic chemist?
    Don’t know exactly what makes a cosmetic chemist but here are 3 symptoms:  :D
    - Spending to long time in other peoples bathrooms checking ingredients on their cosmetic products
    - Gettting stuck in the cosmetics department in the supermarket forgetting what you actually came there to buy
    - Analysing the claims made on the latest cosmetic product TV commercial
  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 19, 2018 at 9:52 pm in reply to: Slimming gel formulation needed
  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 19, 2018 at 9:42 pm in reply to: Temporary Hair Color Gel…Help Me Please!!!

    What did you try and in what way have the formulations failed?

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 19, 2018 at 9:35 pm in reply to: Why isothiazolinones don’t have a bad reputation but parabens do?

    I was at a seminar a couple of years ago where the a German dermatologist claimed the increase of sensitation to cosmetic products was due to that parabens are substituted by isothiazolinones…however isothiazolinone is now banned in EU in leave in products.

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 13, 2018 at 8:03 pm in reply to: What pH is self-preserving?

    The reason you keep on seeing different answers is that more parameters are involved than pH, like e.g. water activity. Moreover there is no definite limit. Although unlikely to end up in a cosmetic product some microbes are growing optimally around a pH of 10.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkaliphile
    ISO 29621 defines >=10 as low risk products.

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 13, 2018 at 5:51 pm in reply to: INCI Names

    here is oligopeptide-10  a shorter peptide- enjoy 🙂

    (2S)-6-amino-N-[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-6-amino-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-6-amino-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-6-amino-1-[[(2S)-1-[[(2S)-1-amino-4-methyl-1-oxopentan-2-yl]amino]-1-oxopropan-2-yl]amino]-1-oxohexan-2-yl]amino]-4-methyl-1-oxopentan-2-yl]amino]-1-oxopropan-2-yl]amino]-1-oxohexan-2-yl]amino]-4-methyl-1-oxopentan-2-yl]amino]-4-methyl-1-oxopentan-2-yl]amino]-1-oxopropan-2-yl]amino]-1-oxohexan-2-yl]amino]-4-methyl-1-oxopentan-2-yl]amino]-1-oxopropan-2-yl]-2-[[(2S)-2-[[(2S)-2-amino-3-phenylpropanoyl]amino]propanoyl]amino]hexanamide

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 13, 2018 at 5:49 pm in reply to: INCI Names

    The oligopeptide-1 is a 55 amino acid long peptide with Mw 6500. It would get a quite long IUPAC name - that’s probably why you can’t find it…

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    June 10, 2018 at 5:53 pm in reply to: I need your help in makin soap base face wash

    Is there an advantage mixing soap and an SLS/SLES/CAPB based recipe?
    Sounds to me you need to get rid of the “soap based” idea - your recipe is anyway not 100% soap based so why bother?

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 12, 2018 at 5:29 am in reply to: Does heating destroy Aloe Vera’s properties?

    @aperson I totally agree that the fresh plant juice ifself is certainly no fairy dust, niether is orange juice or vitamins. However, aloe can not be used in cosmetics as an anti-inflammatory bioactive since this would make it a medicine. Therefore people are usually using a tiny bit of the powder for the marketing story.

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    May 1, 2018 at 10:59 am in reply to: trying to knock off a hand cream formula (stearic acid + TEA)

    You make assumtions here without referring to any sources or reasons.
    Who says you can’t use >2% TEA?
    Why not more TEA than shea butter?
    Who says you should have more stearic acid than cetearyl alcohol?
    Who says it should be 15-20% ?

    The beauty of formulating is that there are no rules other than the regulations and safety. Try to use stoichiometric ratio stearic/TEA, then over- resp. under- neutralize and you will notice the difference.
    Also keep in mind the LOI might not be 100% correct

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    April 8, 2018 at 8:25 pm in reply to: Experimental Design

    yet another reason doe is difficult with cosmetic formulas is that most cosmetic ingredients are multifunctional. although it might be possible to optimize viscosity, other properties such as skin feel, texture, color etc. need to be kept constant (or be measurable) in order to achieve a useful result.

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 12, 2018 at 9:41 pm in reply to: Viscosity

    Humor or not - sometimes I seriously get the impression that consumers would read the NOT-in- the- list-of-ingredients more thoroughly than the actual LOI.

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 12, 2018 at 9:11 pm in reply to: Can’t find polyethylene anywhere

    The ingredient list above is not for homemade lipsticks, it’s a mass production formula. The reason that larger manufacturers put a certain ingredient in the formula is sometimes not even obvious to experts. It can be price, availablity, patents, up-scaling reasons, regulations, marketing….just to mention a few.
    If I was to make a homemade lipstick I would start with google ” how to make a homemade lipstick” and take it from there… / I do however not use lipstick ;)

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 12, 2018 at 8:36 pm in reply to: Interesting Discussion on Preservation.

    Intresting - however Figure 1.( Relationship between preservative efficacy and human safety) is somewhat misleading.
    The more effective the preservative - the safer the cosmetic product for humans in terms of microbial contamination. 
    The interesting graph would be to set the health-risk of the preservative itself vs the health-risk of microbial contamination.
    Pretty much the same discussion as the safety of UV filters vs sunburn

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 26, 2018 at 3:35 pm in reply to: How to check PH for higher viscosity lotion

    why do you need a pH of 5-6?  is it for marketing reasons?

  • David

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 21, 2018 at 7:23 pm in reply to: thickening a shower gel

    There is a HUGE difference between “as natural as possible ” and 100% natural according to e.g. Ecocert/cosmos.
    Polymers mentioned above like Carbomer Aqua / aculyn /Glutamate (VLT) are excellent and will all solve the “as natural as possible ” thickening problem but not natural enough according to ecocert/cosmos.
    Furthermore you can make a 100% natural product and still use a sulfate (this is very often seen in Ecocert/cosmos certified products)

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