[David]

@ Liset did you make a nanoemulsion with ultrasound yourself? just curious.

[David]

good point nasrins , there is of course a limit in molecule size which can penetrate, like for example the article above describes the PQ-10 will unlikely penetrate. I just don’t think there is a large difference between C16 and C22, as the blog-site referred to above assumes. There are other more important factors.

[David]

Correction: Here is a scientific background for CTAB penetration 

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16258698

However I found no info on BMTS except blogsites where they claim BMTS also penetrates…

[David]

@ Belassi 

According to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 claims on cosmetic products shall conform to the following common criteria:

1. Legal compliance

2. Truthfulness

3. Evidential support

4. Honesty

5. Fairness

6. Informed decision-making 

And I am not convinced there is so much difference between US/EU skincare products, the product above has normal ingredients and I think EU chemists also can manage to produce a product with hyaluronic acid, ceramides and niacinamide at an “amazing pH” !

[David]

@pepe well I don’t say that I am a claim expert, just want to learn, but I still don’t think there is a legal difference if you write “moisturizing” or “deep/intense moisturizing”. How deep is deep? How intense is intense?  And regarding CTAB I am still not convinced. Of course the molecule is shorter and has more probability to penetrate but it is still quite large..you will have to show me ten more articles!

[David]

Anyone else noticed a difference in skincare formulations EU resp US? I only have experienced are some minor regulatory differences. 

[David]

Glyceryl oleate is an emulsifier, and as with all emulsifiers it has an effect on emulsion stability and viscosity. Note that this is a special formulation containing gas though. “Post”-foaming gel.

[David]

I don’t know which MSDS you have from Lamesoft but usually the exact composition is not given.

However I agree that duplicating is doable, and I would also recommend it, since a lot of suppliers today have ran out of news and they try to sell “optimized” blends of old ingredients instead (to a higher price).

[David]

@pepe . I don’t think you have to prove anything since “deep” and “intense” have no exact meaning. And why should Cetrimonium Bromide penetrate deeper into the cortex than behentrimonium chloride?

[David]

@ milliachemist , you are right about the buildup, however when I read “deep conditioner” I presume it is not for everyday use, besides you don’t have to use that much. BTW, do you have a lit.ref. for the buildup of amodimethicone? There is so much nonsense on the internet regarding this matter.

[David]

@ Belassi 2% pq-10?, never tried that high level… benefits?

@nasrins  ,if not a silicone-free claim, why not add a silicone?

[David]

Yes, MarkBroussard&Bill_Toge, you are right, there is nothing to worry about, I will just use a chelating agent. The reaction can’t take place without a metal catalyst that can produce a hydroxyl radical.

http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf00029a001

[David]

@Bill That is true, but I think that is no guarantee against nitrosamines, if you have N-nitrosating agents in your formula / production.

[David]

I thought this was a common production method - for a hard cream/wax in order to fill it faster(when it is still fluid). When I do it in the lab it is only to save time, but it risky with emulsions since you can end up with different properties as stated above.

[David]

Yes nasrins

I don’t know why I complicate it- however I got it now I think

humeactants/NMFs take the water from the dermis or from the cosmetic product to the stratum corneum and keeps it there, occlusives stops it from evaporating

However I would like to learn more about how the skin barrier works on a molecular level. 

Any literature suggestions?

[David]

Here are some more insights…

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24817485

[David]

https://chemistscorner.com/how-do-skin-moisturizers-work/

She says humeactants take the water from the dermis up to the stratum corneum..

[David]

I can only picture that the moisture you bring to the skin is the water in the formula - then a hydrophobic ingredient to seal it in.

[David]

Ahh that’s true of course, but then you are saying (Mark) that glycerin penetrates the lipid layer of the skin and not water?

[David]

Sounds correct both of you. But aren’t the water molecules penetrating the skin without help from glycerin? I mean we have the hydrophobic layer there to stop the water from evaporating so why glycerin?

[David]

Mr aqeel, I would strongly advice you to hire a consultant if you have so many questions and not time (or skill?) to experiment yourself. 

If the 1 minute color is an oxidative color they can’t claim peroxide-free.

Why don’t you just buy it yourself and find it out?

The tweaked levels are for you to find out!

Maybe you even make it better! 

That is the joy of beeing a cosmetic chemist!  

David

Professional Chemist / Formulator

December 10, 2014 at 5:21 pm in reply to: Any one Hair Dye Specialist here?

According to this site (http://www.ekminutedye.com/)  the quick touch 1 min color you are referring to is not an oxidative dye, it is a direct dye(no peroxide/ammonia). Those dyes all work almost instantly.

To make an OXIDATIVE color is another thing, and the 5 min variants  resemble very much the normal permanent hair colors, as you can see from link given above by Milliachemist, but with a bit tweaked levels of the ingredients.

[David]

According to this site (http://www.ekminutedye.com/)  the quick touch 1 min color you are referring to is not an oxidative dye, it is a direct dye(no peroxide/ammonia). Those dyes all work almost instantly.

To make an OXIDATIVE color is another thing, and the 5 min variants  resemble very much the normal permanent hair colors, as you can see from link given above by Milliachemist, but with a bit tweaked levels of the ingredients.

[David]

 @Belassi Looks nice to me - and yes 0,5% silicone.

I always wondered if there is any special reason to use stearic acid in a cream? I can understand that it is useful for a shaving cream/ soap where it is neutralized, but in a (low-pH)cream?

[David]

European Commission states that Benzoic acid is a mild skin irritant, and sodium benzoate is not a skin irritant. 

http://ec.europa.eu/health/ph_risk/committees/04_sccp/docs/sccp_o_015.pdf

[David]