[Chemist77]

@probioticqueen

Check CLR, they have some good ones.

[Chemist77]

Polyvinyl Alcohol is a polymer and behenyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol, so no. You can try probably Sodium polyacrylate and see if it helps. 

[Chemist77]

@angelz That’s the cheapest carbomer you are using and if you want to upgrade then Ultrez is not  cheap option (IIRC 4-6 times costlier). 

[Chemist77]

I am working on the same concept though my product is soap based hand wash. As @Belassi said remove the glycol and recalculate the alkali needed. Also the pH of such soaps is very important as a higher pH will definitely keep the fatty acid and alkali soap stable. I have surfactants also in my liquid soap and you can imagine how complicated it becomes then to stabilize the emulsion. 

I have used a polymer to stabilize the emulsion and my fatty acids include 12/14/16, the polymers I used in 2 different trials were Aculyn 33A (ASE polymer) & Aculyn 88 (HASE polymer). 

At 10 days the formulae are still stable though I do it at 43C. 

[Chemist77]

Which carbomer are you going to use, the ones with short flow will have persistent air bubbles but as @ashish pointed out try to mix very slowly although I am not sure if slow mixing wouldn’t be a disadvantage??

[Chemist77]

Think they are, but it has low water solubility so keep it less than 1% I mean phenoxyethanol. Also please bear in mind that the recommended pH for this preservative 4.0-8.0, so go accordingly.

[Chemist77]

@ashish Carbomer is alternative if she doesn’t want to stick to natural or if she has a change of mind and that’s why I mentioned that if it is a normal gel without the huge responsibility of ‘natural’. 

Hope it clarifies.

[Chemist77]

Then just increase glycerin.

[Chemist77]

https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/comment/9162/#Comment_9162

https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/comment/9748/#Comment_9748

https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/comment/9573/#Comment_9573

These are few observations and comments made by @Bobzchemist, I think he has explained in the best possible manner for all and sundry. 

[Chemist77]

You need to increase the glycerin dosage and for sure cut down on your polymers say by 25% to start with. The ratio of plasticizer to the polymers is way too imbalanced here.

Hopefully someone can chip in a better advice. 

Have you tried Carbomers and PVP if its just a normal hair gel????

[Chemist77]

@Perry No one does, as a supplier I have seen both big and small companies but never had such an exception to see. 

[Chemist77]

Here you go @Belassi

https://www.lubrizol.com/Formulations.aspx?product=3488

[Chemist77]

Depends on your targeted final pH. 

[Chemist77]

OK is your formulation that much thick that you have to use 10% of xylene sulfonate, or you having difficulty to solubilize limonene. I see sodium hydroxide, whats the final pH of your formula and did you check other such formulations and their parameters to see if you are close to them or too wayward??? Sodium hydroxide here seems to be more of a pH adjuster as I don’t see anything that is being neutralized here. 

Just compare your formula and its ingredients with those available online as starters. 

[Chemist77]

The best evaluation would be by putting it into use and see how it cleans and de-greases. 

[Chemist77]

This is where Rules for requesting formulating advice/help come into play, I hope we all can respect that. 

[Chemist77]

Goodness you have lots and lots of formulas available online for dish wash liquid so why woul dyou get so confused. As for natural I never go that way which is basically just a mirage. 

I use SLES, APG, CAPB, Amine Oxide, Polymer, Salt and fragrance in my dish wash liquid and it works just fine. You can use LABSA as well depending on your cost and if you know how to properly neutralize it to get the sodium salt of it. Or else use NANSA HS/80. 

[Chemist77]

You would need ethanol or else how do you plan to tackle the drying time of the mask. IIRC I used between 15-25% but check for irritation and other properties too and yes the moment you add ethanol the foam vanishes instantly. 

[Chemist77]

Dissolution of the PVA in water is an uphill task and requires a lot of patience, I had to heat it for dissolution and post that the foaming is enormous. The moment you add ethanol, it will become foam free. So first develop the base and check for drying time and other relevant properties, later you can add kaolin and whatever other clays you want to.

[Chemist77]

Check Sekisui as well, they have Ultalux PVAs and IIRC I had used Ultalux FF around 10% which was a bit on a higher side. The dissolution is a pain in the neck but it turned out to be a great experiment. 

[Chemist77]

check info from Huntsman, Akzo, Air Products, plenty to grab for a headstart.

[Chemist77]

@Bobzchemist Have you ever thought of compiling all these words, to laymen and experts alike they are really priceless. I mean I remember once recommending a book compiled and co-authored by @Perry and the guy was really happy to own it. And I have seen a huge number of people using it quite often. 

Just a thought!!!!!!

[Chemist77]

And a surfactant like sodium cocoamphoacetate would help too along with propylene glycol.

[Chemist77]

What other components are you going to incorporate is worth mentioning, otherwise its just unanswerable.

[Chemist77]

http://www.airproducts.de/~/media/downloads/brochure/I/en-industrial-and-institutional-cleaning-formulary-brochure.pdf

I am sure this would be help for you.