[chemicalmatt]

Ehmod1989, both propylene glycol and/or sorbitol/glycerine function to plasticize (read: soften) the fixative polymer film, PVP in your case. The more you use, the more flexible and softer, but less powerful a hold you get. Also, the polyols allow for less flaking (stiffer, less plasticized = more flaking when dry) This hold true for most fixative resins, including the PVM, VA and MA anionic copolymers. Use sparingly would be my advice, and use PVP K90 for a harder hold to begin with. 

[chemicalmatt]

Hey folks, just as a point of correction here, polyvinyl alcohols and the films they form are commonly referred to under initials PVOH. (As you might guess, I am a flexible film guy.) PVA is reserved for polyvinyl acetate, another critter altogether. Belassi, if you are willing and able, please post your results with the different “in situ” films. Also, adding ethanol to water, then dissolving your PVOH will reduce the dissolution time immensely. The reason I ask is that I am working on PVOH and PVA die-cut masks precut from film structure, then saturated with product and packaged inside a pouch. Taiwan, and now the French, have had this product form all to themselves. I’m thinking they had it too good for too long.

[chemicalmatt]

David meant to say this ester is a UV filter for the hair itself, not the chemicals in your formula. That would require another UV absorber, such as benzophenone-1, -2 ..

[chemicalmatt]

LOL, Bob…..if only there such an “engine”  We’d have so much more time on our hands.

[chemicalmatt]

Ditto ozgirl’s remark. Nobody here in the USA says you cannot create your own specs for a given raw material, broadening the range as you see fit (and within your personal testing capability.) Makes life easier, no?

[chemicalmatt]

Pretty huge difference between the concentrations given there. as 100ppm is equal to 0.001% w/w. I’m quite sure 2.0% will be way too much of a poly peptide like this and WAY too expensive as well. If you are unsure, split the difference and go with 0.10%.depending of course on the actual activity of the material you are buying.

[chemicalmatt]

Two different chemical structures, “el seso”, thus the two C.A.S. numbers. The CAPB is the Zwitterionic form of the amido-amine alkyl cut, where the coco-betaine is formed from the straight monoalkyl-amine derived from coconut oil (mostly C14, C16, C18) I trust this helps?

[chemicalmatt]

In which nation-state or parallel universe are raw material specs dictated by ‘federal guidelines’? Unless you are speaking of an aerosol?

[chemicalmatt]

Sandy, I will predict this will turn out as either an amorphous mess, or into a o/w emulsion. I don’t see this resulting in an inverse phase system.  Lanolin alcohol is a powerful emulsifier all by itself (see every Nivea Cream ever made), but will revert on cooling from w/o to o/w, depending on the oil load. Why can’t you use one of the many nifty alkyl-modified silicone w/o emulsifiers, e.g. Abil EM-90, DC5225-C? Is it because you can’t have any “unseemly” ingredients in your label listing?

[chemicalmatt]

Few traditional builders work with APGs.  These saccharide molecules don’t form the lamellar liquid crystal structures that anionic, amphoterics, cationics do. I’ll surmise that any viscosity building you are achieving is from your anionic component. I think 3% GCC isn’t all that much, either.  You’d use a similar level of alkylamide. BTW, I never knew salt to decrease foam much - what gives there?

[chemicalmatt]

2 fl.oz. (60 ml) for US$5.00/lb is still a blatant rip-off.  Argan is less than US$24/kg in commercial quantities. These websites selling cosmetic ingredients to D.I.Y folks - and there are many well-regarded ones mentioned in this blogosphere - should all be ashamed of themselves.  (On the other hand: wish I’d though of it.)

[chemicalmatt]

You are correct 77.  For further research, check out gemini surfactants, sometimes truncated to “gem surfactants”.  These lower the CMC - big time - and give more bang for the buck. If you are formulating a stain remover though, Chirag, I’d strongly suggest the use of enzymes, at least one or two.

[chemicalmatt]

brain, there’s too much ground to cover here in your inquiry, so I’ll suggest more research into surfactant chemistry. Check out the Allured index for some cues.  Having said that , the amphoterics you mention are best used as hydrotropes, not thickeners or “mildness agents”. Hydrotropes keep other materials in harmony with water and polyols. In this fashion, CAPB performs just the same, if not slightly better, in acidic media as in alkaline; though as a surfactant but maybe not as a foaming agent.(Never confuse the two)  Amphos improve viscosity only when used in synergy with anionics and/or builders.  Being zwitterionic, they will behave more like soaps in the alkaline range, more like inert oils (for lack of a better word) in the acid range - thus your foaming difference. As for alternatives to amphos…best start a new thread on that one and follow it.  I don’t have the time here. 

[chemicalmatt]

Good thing you have propylene glycol in there (aka “propanediol”) else this would be one sticky mess. In fact it may still be one - is this the case mello?
Also, whassup with the creatine (sic “creating”)?

[chemicalmatt]

StepanMild GCC worked well for me, its EO-free and it comes from Stepan at much lower cost than any other non-EO thickeners and many with EO. It does have limitations with the APGs, just like every other thickener out there that is neither a saccharide gum or mineral colloid.

[chemicalmatt]

amdanish, is there a pearling agent in your formula? EGDS? EGMS? Euperlan? If so you might be kicking it out.  Polox polymer thickeners are compatible with just about everything, so it is likely another ingredient interaction.

[chemicalmatt]

Better yet: drop the SLS altogether.Cationic polymer coacervation is better served with SLES as the anionic workhorse, maintaining a solids ratio of 1.5: 1 or so with the amphos and amides combined.  You will experience less hair loss and better conditioning (the two are related right?). Only thing is your foam may not be as rich as before - no big deal if you ask me.

[chemicalmatt]

Did they object the sarcasm or the to the diluent idea? They may have not comprehended the first.

[chemicalmatt]

Boy, hard to believe Amerchol got it wrong, which would NOT have happened a few years later when Union Carbide acquired them and they would have met the master of cationic polymer coacervation: Des Goddard. I refer to the order of addition here. Barrow, always disperse the Polyquat-10 into your water first, THEN always add the amphoteric next  - CAPB in your case, though the disodium cocoamphodiacetate mentioned in the Amerchol lit works far better as a hydrotrope. Then add SLES, SLS, whatever anionic you may wish to have in there.  Though 0.50% JR-400 might seem high for normal 2-in-1 conditioning shampoos, I’ve made ones for the ethnic hair-care market with much more than that. BTW, for a neat trick, add 1.0% sodium DDBSA to a gel made with 1.0% JR-30000. The coacervate gel you obtain is so dense it can be thrown around like a tennis ball.

[chemicalmatt]

There are brands promoting this additive for teeth whitening. Without looking into patents, I’m thinking the ingredient to use wouldn’t be H2O2 itself, but a precursor such as (coated) potassium percarbonate, which would activate to peroxide once diluted enough with water.  That would have to be the thing, else you would need that low pH Bill speaks of, which would not fly for reasons stated.

[chemicalmatt]

This sounds like a job for…wait for it…FINSOLV TN (C12-15 alkyl benzoate).  Miscible with cyclomethicone,most alkyl esters, isododecane and mineral oil. This may bridge your incompatibility problem if added to/with your essential oils - along with that order of addition Bob refers to (always important!) As I have said so many times before: what CAN’T Finsolv TN do?

[chemicalmatt]

If you are only using it as an alkali neutralizer for carbomers, acrylate thickeners, etc., then any alkali other than DEA is OK (for the nitrosamine precursor reason David stated.) If you are saponifying fatty acids, though, it will make a large difference in the texture outcome of , say, a shaving cream. 

[chemicalmatt]

Thanks folks, no need to Google this or that:our firm is named Paket Corporation and may be located at http://www.paketcorp.com.  Please excuse our currently lame website that doesn’t mention chemical compounding (or even a chemist!) also. This page is under revision. You may also contact me at sales@paketcorp.com. As Perry so thoughtfully stated, sample packets of the form/fill/seal type (pouches, sachets, wipes even) are what we do better than virtually everyone.

[chemicalmatt]

I’ll echo David’s advice and add another: be clear about order of addition.  I always draft my compounder processing instructions with “Add - in order - Items #3, #4,…”  This can prevent a lot of quality issues whenever this is critical.

[chemicalmatt]

Oils crash viscosity all the time, especially terpenes, which I’m guessing are present in those essentials. You’ll need a different builder to hold this up, likely a cellulosic gum.  Borax, SLS, Cocamide DEA, Germall? Very cool, I like it when folks formulate “old school”.  Keep it up, JD, just don’t sell it in California.