Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Formulating with pigments


  • Formulating with pigments

    Posted by naturalformulator on June 8, 2016 at 6:07 pm

    We are using Sensient Cosmetics pigment in our oil based makeup that we mill ourselves. We want to create different water-based products, how would you recommend using these none-milled pigments? 

    We tried milling them and adding them to the oil-phrase, but that doesn’t emulsify when added to water-phrase. What solvents or methods should we use to add them to emulsions? Any tips? 

    Silicones and formula
    Any good ingredients to use to get a good wear and wearablility of formulas that uses pigments and should work as foundaton/concealer? We are considering to use Trimethylsiloxy silicate, polypropyl silsesquioxane fron MakingCosmetics.com. 

    naturalformulator replied 7 years, 3 months ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    June 10, 2016 at 6:34 pm

    Natural, I will suggest trying a w/o (inverse-phase) emulsion since your pigment wetting agents and extenders are mainly aliphatic and aromatic esters, correct? Oil suspension can use silica if that is needed. This will also afford better payout of same when applied.  You can go high water activity or low, depending on the desired outcome and w/o emulsifier.

  • Bobzchemist

    June 10, 2016 at 7:14 pm

    First, I’m going to recommend hiring a consultant, or getting together with a contract manufacturer that has a lab. Water-based makeup is complicated.

    Second, Matt is correct. The only way to make a water-based makeup with pre-ground pigments in oil is to make a w/o emulsion. You’re going to need to find a way to suspend the pigments, though. Silica is a good starting point.

  • naturalformulator

    June 12, 2016 at 1:37 pm

    How do you recommend using the silicia then? I normally grind the pigments with Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides. I would try to use Glyceryl Streate as an w/o emulsifier. 

  • Bobzchemist

    June 13, 2016 at 12:55 am

    What are you using to grind the pigments with?

  • naturalformulator

    June 14, 2016 at 8:22 am

    3 roll miller!

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