chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
-
Natural, these are made with die-cut cellulosic film, which is then cut/formed/inserted into a form/fill/seal pouch, then liquid formula injected into pouch, then pouch sealed. Voila - facemask. Our firm (we are the pouch kings of the New World) has looked into it, given our equipment and skill-set, but the die-cutting equipment and retro-fitting needed to fit our nonwoven wipe insert line is expensive. Unless someone approaches us with a solid order in the millions of mask units, it will remain on the drawing board for now. Try Taiwan in the meanwhile.
-
Bart, partly charge-mass ratio granting greater emulsifier range and cationic conditioning on the hair; but mostly because it’s much less expensive. Croda has enough money already, don’t you agree?
-
Actually Glam, SD is a very good emulsifier - only when acidified into a tertiary amine salt to about pH 5 - but especially so when used in conjunction with alkyl quats such as CETAC, STEARAC and BEHENTAC, etc. Be advised you will obtain sharply different viscosity and stability outcomes depending upon the organic acid used. If you can afford glutamic acid that will work best, but good old inexpensive lactic acid 88% works nicely too. Regarding dimethicone emulsification: the SD/behenyl quat (use the chloride not the TMS analog) system you are trending toward is perhaps the best vehicle to use for that ingredient, even with the 10,000 CST DMC. Happy trails.
-
Joanne, use ethoxydiglycol for absorption enhancement of water-borne additives like those you describe. For oil-soluble materials, I’ll recommend dimethyl isosorbide.
-
Natural, I will suggest trying a w/o (inverse-phase) emulsion since your pigment wetting agents and extenders are mainly aliphatic and aromatic esters, correct? Oil suspension can use silica if that is needed. This will also afford better payout of same when applied. You can go high water activity or low, depending on the desired outcome and w/o emulsifier.
-
I will posit it is none of the above - though I do like the Marks’ Elyssian fields touchy-feely cruelty-free vegan-safe scenario, once I’ve consumed the contents of my bong. Unilever is using encapsulated oils in that soap. This uses that spherite dendritic surfactant thingy that Rhodia (now Solvay) came up with several years back. Pretty nifty: I made up a prototype that encapped 5% dimethicone inside a standard anionic-amphoteric system. Never did make a sale with it though. Guess you have to be Unilever..
-
Hayle, if you are a SCC member you may search the archives for research papers published in their journal. These will not be considered ‘clinical trials’ so much as substantivity assays. We tend to leave the word ‘clinical’ out of the lexicon of cosmetic science. Commercial sources may be of help also, TRI-K Industries does great protein work as does Solvay (see: Gluadin products).
-
Swabu, “expertise” will generally be defined by the market requirements within which a professional works. Bob Z. has made a good reference to this. My career path here in Chicago has been nearly an immersion in African-American (and African, for that matter) and multi-cultural (read: Hispanic, Asian) product formulation. My running joke for over 25 years in this biz has been: I know more about black hair and skin care than a guy with blonde hair and blue eyes has a right to know. So there you have it. Now, as for color cosmetics: I don’t hardly know where to start there, yet some guy in southern California or France likely does. See what I mean.
-
Chicago is the Silicon Valley of ethnic (read: African-American) hair and skin care, in case you did not know already. I’ll second Uyi Wogherin. If you need manufacturing - or a second opinion - contact me through this blog.
-
What I’d like to know is how all the marketers of these potassium alum salt stick deodorants are feeling about themselves by claiming “aluminum-free” on their labels?
-
FYI - I witnessed their large loud presentation at ABS in Chicago yesterday. “7 patents, 300,000 salons, 23 countries..” yada, yada, yada. Though mainly sold & used for oxidative hair coloring techniques “to restore disulfide bonds”, they also claim it works with alkaline relaxers, which results in lanthionization, so like my esteemed colleague Randy S, I am skeptical. Also, they did warn of the need to use less, not more. My read on that: this big molecule will displace/inhibit the smaller dye intermediate molecules during the dying process, resulting in less dye uptake. But, it DOES sell like crazy. These guys are minting money with this product and it shows up in numerous salon technique procedures now.
-
HCO is quite safe to use mayiknow - don’t believe what you read in internet posts that associate it with the poison Ricin, which is derived from castor oil. By itself it is not an emulsifier however - you CAN believe that. It will be miscible with most polar oils. Historical note: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is thought to be the first ethoxylated nonionic emulsifier introduced to industry, by BASF back in the post-WWII era.
-
Cool, Belassi. Thanks for the update. A vinyl cleaner - who knew?
-
You may want to add a little foaming surfactant to create more fluff in the first place, though with no water in your formula you don’t have many options. Any other lipophilic builder or foam stabilizer will put you outside the vegan world. Can you deal with modified hectorite clays?
-
Ehmod1989, both propylene glycol and/or sorbitol/glycerine function to plasticize (read: soften) the fixative polymer film, PVP in your case. The more you use, the more flexible and softer, but less powerful a hold you get. Also, the polyols allow for less flaking (stiffer, less plasticized = more flaking when dry) This hold true for most fixative resins, including the PVM, VA and MA anionic copolymers. Use sparingly would be my advice, and use PVP K90 for a harder hold to begin with.
-
Hey folks, just as a point of correction here, polyvinyl alcohols and the films they form are commonly referred to under initials PVOH. (As you might guess, I am a flexible film guy.) PVA is reserved for polyvinyl acetate, another critter altogether. Belassi, if you are willing and able, please post your results with the different “in situ” films. Also, adding ethanol to water, then dissolving your PVOH will reduce the dissolution time immensely. The reason I ask is that I am working on PVOH and PVA die-cut masks precut from film structure, then saturated with product and packaged inside a pouch. Taiwan, and now the French, have had this product form all to themselves. I’m thinking they had it too good for too long.
-
David meant to say this ester is a UV filter for the hair itself, not the chemicals in your formula. That would require another UV absorber, such as benzophenone-1, -2 ..
-
LOL, Bob…..if only there such an “engine” We’d have so much more time on our hands.
-
Ditto ozgirl’s remark. Nobody here in the USA says you cannot create your own specs for a given raw material, broadening the range as you see fit (and within your personal testing capability.) Makes life easier, no?
-
Pretty huge difference between the concentrations given there. as 100ppm is equal to 0.001% w/w. I’m quite sure 2.0% will be way too much of a poly peptide like this and WAY too expensive as well. If you are unsure, split the difference and go with 0.10%.depending of course on the actual activity of the material you are buying.
-
Two different chemical structures, “el seso”, thus the two C.A.S. numbers. The CAPB is the Zwitterionic form of the amido-amine alkyl cut, where the coco-betaine is formed from the straight monoalkyl-amine derived from coconut oil (mostly C14, C16, C18) I trust this helps?
-
In which nation-state or parallel universe are raw material specs dictated by ‘federal guidelines’? Unless you are speaking of an aerosol?
-
Sandy, I will predict this will turn out as either an amorphous mess, or into a o/w emulsion. I don’t see this resulting in an inverse phase system. Lanolin alcohol is a powerful emulsifier all by itself (see every Nivea Cream ever made), but will revert on cooling from w/o to o/w, depending on the oil load. Why can’t you use one of the many nifty alkyl-modified silicone w/o emulsifiers, e.g. Abil EM-90, DC5225-C? Is it because you can’t have any “unseemly” ingredients in your label listing?
-
Few traditional builders work with APGs. These saccharide molecules don’t form the lamellar liquid crystal structures that anionic, amphoterics, cationics do. I’ll surmise that any viscosity building you are achieving is from your anionic component. I think 3% GCC isn’t all that much, either. You’d use a similar level of alkylamide. BTW, I never knew salt to decrease foam much - what gives there?
-
2 fl.oz. (60 ml) for US$5.00/lb is still a blatant rip-off. Argan is less than US$24/kg in commercial quantities. These websites selling cosmetic ingredients to D.I.Y folks - and there are many well-regarded ones mentioned in this blogosphere - should all be ashamed of themselves. (On the other hand: wish I’d though of it.)