chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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For a short run like the one you propose, Lady Burd Cosmetics or Colorlab (Rockford, IL, USA) are just about the only ones viable. -
We’ve filled henna into pouches at our facility - we are the pouch kings of North America - and I always ask the question Bill Toge alludes to: is there any p-phenylenediamine in your product? Some exporters are adding it to turbocharge their henna product, and not always divulging this. As for your paste idea, what about making a paste with polyols instead of water? You won’t need a preservative either.
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They improve the activity of preservatives like Perry said, plus they are essential in shampoos and body washes in retarding redeposition. Most of the world uses hard water and you never feel like the body wash rinses off right? Add some EDTA to your formula and you become part of the solution, not the problem. (Yes, pun was intended.)
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What’s wrong with using BHT, Georgi? Those sulfites can retard the oxidation effect of HQ to some degree. Also, HQ is “more active” just above pH 7.0, where it is less tautomerized, so you can use metabisulfite and adjust your pH to 7.0 - 7.5.
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You might want to reconsider increasing the Polysorbate 60 here: that will kill your viscosity just as the PGC did. Instead change the order of addition and use the fact that CAPB is a mighty fair hydrotrope. Add fragrance & oil into the TWEEN 60 then into the CAPB. Better yet, switch out the TWEEN 60 with PGC altogether. The former does nothing for this formula, while the latter is a decent refatting agent. No chelating agent either, huh? Whassup with that? BTW I like Belassi’s idea - now that’s good critical thinking.
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I usually affix a lab spatula into a 3-prong clasp mounted on my mixer stand and lower it inside the beaker as a tank baffle. Works like a charm and is quite cheap. Cheap is good, right?
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I might also engage the interested parties in an organization I am proud to be part of: http://www.contractpackaging.org, the official site of the Contract Packagers Association (of America.) When you visit the site, you see the RFQ (request for quote) window, which you enter your search criteria, which is then distributed to the likely match of manufacturers via a database algorithm. Could not be easier. Remember, pouches ARE the future.
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Forestall (SME) has been used for over 25 years by me and others in this forum. It is innocuous - don’t be scared. Weirdly, I recall that quat being one of the few “approved” for use in the Whole Foods listing.
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Add a fatty alcohol to your emulsion - cetyl or stearyl - and that should be the end of that; unless of course you have a foaming surfactant in there you aren’t divulging. e.g. a betaine or a glucoside. If so, then rename it a “foaming lotion”. Marketing can solve these problems when chemistry cannot.
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In other words, if I may sum up here: you guys don’t know and can’t help, right? OK, that was meant to be funny, so you should be laughing now. As it happens, I just learned the oil of arnica is used preferentially. Zero science behind it (go figure); its just customary to use it in lipophilic systems. Bummer is it is a LOT more expensive than the alcohol extract. Poor me!
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Actually Azeez, your primary problem is the glycerin. An infamous killer of viscosity and foam. TAKE IT OUT and you’ll be fine. All the salt in the mine won’t build your viscosity with that in there. It tickles me to no end that everybody puts glycerin in their liquid soaps and shampoos. It does not and will not deposit on the skin or hair. Glycerin is not a re-fatting agent like PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate or Sorbitan Oleate, etc., etc.
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I’ll disagree here. I never saw the sense in taking out electrolytes via deionization when you plan on putting some right back in - especially one as strong as NaOH. I’ve manufactured hundreds of metric tons of alkali cream hair relaxer using cold tap - never a problem. That said, your soap formula does need help in keeping out Fe, Al and other multivalent ions. Use tap water and a fair amount of chelating agent (0.10 - 0.30% Na4 EDTA), then get on with your saponification.
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D-Limonene is a terpene, canola, et.al are unsaturated triglyceride polar oils. Try the wonderful Finsolv TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) to be miscible with the terpene FIRST, then add this cocktail to the canola oil. How many times must I ask it: what CAN’T Finsolv TN do? If it doesn’t work here, then you are off to the miscible co-solvent land: dipropylene glycol, sorbitan oleate, etc., etc.
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Hola’, Luis. Try using 0.50% Cocamide DEA in there. That ought to do the trick. Kudos to you for getting this to hang together without cyclomethicone as the primary solvent. I’m still not sure how it is working, but there it is. Another trick is to limit your fatty alcohol to stearyl alcohol only - no cetyl or lauryl (often part of cetyl.)
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IF you keep your mixer speed/shear rate low while adding your water phase, you shouldn’t need to homogenize much; and I did mean after both phases are combined and your batch is at ambient temperature by “at the end”. That’s enough NaCl by the way.
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Here’s more relevant advice, regarding this Evonik formula: you must always add the water phase (internal) to the oil phase (external) slowly drip-wise for at least the first 65% of your phase addition, and only at very low shear. Also, double the amount of salt in this formula - better yet triple it. They always short the salt ( like some food recipes) in inverse-phase emulsions; and the electrolyte is critical to stability. Finally, do NOT over-homogenize at the end or you’ll lose it and ruin everything you just successfully achieved. Try this and you may find much better results with that formula.
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Negative, Zolveria. Dimethicone will not dry it faster and likely will not be compatible with the acrylics and other nail polish ingredients. Silica not same as silicone.
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I’ve said many times to many people here in the U.S.: had the investment banking industry been as competently self-regulated as the personal care products industry has been over the past four decades, there would never have been a crash, a bailout and a recession in 2007.
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How about just adding a good amphoteric hydrotrope like disodium cocoamphodipropionate or sodium lauroamphoacetate. These products reduce skin irritation, stabilize your barely soluble alkali soap, build foam, etc. Also, why are you adding glycerin when some is being made in situ already in this saponification reaction; and glycerin does zilch in your formula unless you really can’t stand suds? All these “natural” formulators use it in cleansing products - just madness!
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Hi Bob. I’m thinking that plant in Solon is the former Matrix plant, occupied by L’Oréal for a spell. If I’m right it was one well-equipped manufacturing plant already. Score one for the South Koreans. The Variblend device is pretty cool, but not unique. I remember working on a dual-chambered product in the early 1980’s called Dial-A-Tan for Beecham, in a dual chambered LDPE tube. It had SPF 25 in one chamber, SPF 4 in another; you then dialed in your tanning range. LOTS of gas chromatography work to validate it. Bad marketing killed it. Too bad.
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Hi Belassi. You are right it is; I read this today also. Deckner managed to pare this down to 3 or 4 paragraphs when the actual science could take up many pages. For the record, I’ve always had the best result in forming stable lammelar liquid crystalline gels using cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate or a combination of both, 4:1. Easy on the GMS though, or you will see that viscosity creep he writes about.
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Young, I’ve found in most cases that petrolatum is the better material to use over petroleum jelly. Ask for petrolatum white USP grade, never have a problem again. Petroleum jelly, sometimes referred to as “mineral jelly”, is indeed a mixture of mineral oil, paraffins and microcrystalline waxes, all from the same white oil cut from crude petroleum. Your supplier obviously did some black-art chemical mixing to produce something close to the commercial product, then took it to market. $15 per kg! Man, I am SOOO in the wrong business.
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I will second Bill Toge’s question regarding your conundrum: what else is incorporated here? It is doubtful, if not impossible, for an emulsion based on (neutralized) Pemulen to invert to w/o. There must be another factor, or your empirical observations with Finsolv TN are throwing you off (and I am a big fan of Finsolv TN as everyone knows.)
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Alcohol, Denatonium Benzoate. You may list the latter way down in the order, just as long as it is there.
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Pretty sure that is in there only as a buffering additive, jvic. These organic acids work as keratolytic desquamators only in the acid pH range, as stated above.