chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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The debate over conditioning effectiveness between these two polymers continues on…but my vote goes for low MW Polyquaternium-10 (aka Polymer JR-400) in shampoo/cleanser systems. Some folks hedge and use both. As for build-up, the cationic guar usually will build less, but that may depend upon what else you have with it, e.g. dimethicone.
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NOT an emulsifier - as Belassi pointed out - but forms lamellar liquid crystal micelles WITH a primary emulsifier, which thicken your lotion or cream very efficiently.
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No worries: employ a lactate buffer at pH 5 - 6. Urea will always slowly hydrolyze to biuret, ammonium nitrate and eventually ammonia, but that goes with the territory, as everyone knows. Urea creams are one of the oldest “natural” product formulations in existence - nearly 100 years of use. They work well too.
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Kioko: cetrimonium chloride is a perfectly fine cationic emulsifier, you wont need to spend money on that behenyl quat. Assuming you are using the standard 30% active CETAC, increase this to 2.0%, then reverse the concentration ratio of cetyl alcohol: glyceryl stearate from 2:4 to 4:2. Should you need to thicken it, add sodium chloride (in solution!) incrementally, no more than 0.15% solid basis.
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It is not heat sensitive for short periods of time, Lindsay. It WILL however make an endothermic reaction when it hydrolyzes with water, so I always used that physical property to my advantage when making urea creams: emulsify, then add urea during cool-down so it will help the process along. Cool, huh? (Yes, pun was intended)
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Basic chemistry here, folks. Anionic organic salts and cationic organic salts (BTMS) do not play well together. Rid yourself of all the acids and the TEA, then you will be quite pleased with the result.
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Spinr: drop the stearic acid if possible (unless you wish to add an alkali to saponify it), and sub with glyceryl stearate; glyceryl oleate might work even better, given the polar oil content. Not knowing the level of emulsifying wax, I couldn’t say how much, but 2.0% w/w would be a nice start. That is large oil phase you have there. Small amount of Steareth-2 (0.50%) would help stabilize also.
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Kate, looks like you need another hydrotrope - or more of the one you have: CAPB. Neither SCI nor the glucoside is very hydrotropic and could use more help from the amphoteric, so raise that and lower the glucoside. The gel phase is likely either the hydroxypropyl guar, the glucoside, or a coacervate complex with the anionic, so drop the nonionic guar, keep the cationic guar and change your order of addition. Always add the amphotheric to your mixture after a cationic is added (HPGTC in this case), then the nonionic then anionic, so sequence: CAPB/glucoside/SCI. Also keep your pH above 7.0 since glucosides are less hydrophilic in the acid range and play well with others in the near alkaline range. Finally, drop the glycerine to an insignificant level and you will appreciate the higher viscosity and foaming. In surfactant systems such as yours, glycerine does absolutely nothing but kill viscosity, kill foam and rinse away to feed fishes.
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Amit, don’t waste time using bentonite or other mineral clays. Kaolin does not suspend organic constituents, by the way, it just sits there. The best yield value is from guars or other saccharide gums (xanthan, sclerotium, etc,). You already have cationic guar in there - try upping it and co-dispersing it with hydroxymethylcellulose (“Methocel” by Dow) and the synergy may bring success. Good luck working with SeS. I’ve worked with it before - very toxic - take care there.
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Hola’ Belassi. Long time/no blog. Urea compositions are best stabilized with lactic/lactate buffers at pH <6. The threshold of use for keratolysis is around 10%. At 40% you can dissolve the nail sheath if left on overnight. Cool, huh? uhhh…maybe not.
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I’ll weigh in here - only because I must. Mary24: ignore all of the above. That 2.0% salt is hindering deposition of both re-fatting agents (Cetiol HE and Lamesoft, and Belassi is right you have too much.) I dare say the Polysorbate 80 isn’t helping either, so take both NaCl and Tween 80 out of there. Your viscosity will improve somewhat also when the Tween 80 is removed and the Lamesoft reduced. Employing a cationic polymer as suggested will likely be a waste of time and money, but try anyway just for kicks. Cationic deposition onto hair is dependent upon coacervation and your surfactant combo will not coacervate much at all. Everyone please read Des Goddard’s book. It will change your life. OK, maybe not your life, but at least your conditioning shampoo formulations.
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Triglyceride oils used there? If so, heat to 65C add a little GMS then cool slowly back down to RT. If not, return to “GO”.
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That is the easiest oil to emulsify, my friend. Try Emulsifying Wax NF (cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60), the most ubiquitous emulsion base used in HBA commerce. Next time try ask us something more difficult.
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Thanks again, Bill Toge, for livening this blog with both his science and his wit. To enhance Bill’s insight: salts such as NaCl and Mg sulfate must be added to INVERSE PHASE emulsions (w/Si or w/o) to stabilize these just as Bill says, and also depending on the emulsifier type used. Adding a salt to a standard o/w emulsion is a good way to DESTABILIZE it. I found that 2.0% salt in the water phase of the appropriate w/o or w/Si emulsion does the trick nicely, even though suppliers (Evonik,others) usually state 1.0% or less. Technical tidbit of the day: this is exactly how the trendy HIP emulsions are made. Word.
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The worst thing about this EU ruling, among the many, is how drastically it will affect the “standard” formulations for antiperspirant sticks and anti-frizz serums. This affects more than 55% of formula solvent base that cannot be duplicated with any alternate, as physical chemistry doesn’t allow for that. Bummer. We can only hope that North America doesn’t follow suit.
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You don’t need a supervisor, you don’t need a hood, you don’t need a medical device qualification, but you do need to compound standard saline solution (0.90% w/w NaCl) which every MD in the world uses, then you need to either package it aseptically or run the packaged goods through gamma radiation treatment to assure sterility. Plus, do not forget to apply tamper-evident seal to the package. Oh, and make sure you product liability insurance is paid up. You will likely need it, depending on the business volume.
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This may seem obvious, but you simply draft a compliance certificate on your company letterhead and reference ISO22716:2007 within the body of text. Then you sign it.
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I’ll echo that comment from Mark B. I haven’t found another fragrance solubilizer that works as well at low concentration as PolySugaMulse D9. I’m not just saying that to make Dennis Abbeduto’s career go better, either, though that would be OK too…
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Just a guess here, but could there be micro-encapsulation of your pigments happening? Once this breaks, those pigments would be looking a lot stronger if that were the case. Either that, or insufficient dispersion as you are suspecting. As for GB20, I would not count on that material as a pigment wetter. Likewise Bentone Gel, both of which have D5. I never considered D5 cyclomethicone to be a pigment wetter. Try good old C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate here for that. Totally miscible with all that D5 too.
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Frain will be the most expensive re-seller of all. Try Loeb Equipment here in Chicago, then Equipnet for both resell and auctions. Those electric pony kettles are uncommon and difficult to find, also slow to heat and cannot cool. Just FYI.
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How many product formulations are you talking about here?
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My experience with these glucoside surfactants is that you always need a co-emulsifier with them. The claims of “one-pot emulsification” are mainly false. Not a problem in formulating, mind you, just one of marketing credibility. Also, stay out of the sub-6.0 pH range. Instability may ensue. Preservation is not an issue; these are not the nonionics that interfere with formaldehyde donors.
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Regardless of any Standards, you may wish to know that these glucosides’ skin irritation index declines with higher alkyl homolog length. E.g. “coco-” is safer then “decyl”.
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MCT should work OK, but I’ll add that Finsolv TN is a far better extender/wetting agent for mineral pigments than anything else in there.
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Mark’s and Belassi’s cheeky comments aside (Donovan - haven’t heard that singer’s name in a long while!), you can and should use lipholyzed banana powder for a hair mask - it works great for a softening effect, and has a little rheology benefit too. You need to buy it from a food purveyor (hint: Chiquita makes it here in the USA), not a cosmetic specialty house. That supply chain only makes extracts, and will not work the same. Regarding preservation: ahoy, all parabens on deck! Molds will happen if you don’t heed that advice.