chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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The worst thing about this EU ruling, among the many, is how drastically it will affect the “standard” formulations for antiperspirant sticks and anti-frizz serums. This affects more than 55% of formula solvent base that cannot be duplicated with any alternate, as physical chemistry doesn’t allow for that. Bummer. We can only hope that North America doesn’t follow suit.
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You don’t need a supervisor, you don’t need a hood, you don’t need a medical device qualification, but you do need to compound standard saline solution (0.90% w/w NaCl) which every MD in the world uses, then you need to either package it aseptically or run the packaged goods through gamma radiation treatment to assure sterility. Plus, do not forget to apply tamper-evident seal to the package. Oh, and make sure you product liability insurance is paid up. You will likely need it, depending on the business volume.
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This may seem obvious, but you simply draft a compliance certificate on your company letterhead and reference ISO22716:2007 within the body of text. Then you sign it.
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I’ll echo that comment from Mark B. I haven’t found another fragrance solubilizer that works as well at low concentration as PolySugaMulse D9. I’m not just saying that to make Dennis Abbeduto’s career go better, either, though that would be OK too…
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Just a guess here, but could there be micro-encapsulation of your pigments happening? Once this breaks, those pigments would be looking a lot stronger if that were the case. Either that, or insufficient dispersion as you are suspecting. As for GB20, I would not count on that material as a pigment wetter. Likewise Bentone Gel, both of which have D5. I never considered D5 cyclomethicone to be a pigment wetter. Try good old C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate here for that. Totally miscible with all that D5 too.
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Frain will be the most expensive re-seller of all. Try Loeb Equipment here in Chicago, then Equipnet for both resell and auctions. Those electric pony kettles are uncommon and difficult to find, also slow to heat and cannot cool. Just FYI.
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How many product formulations are you talking about here?
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My experience with these glucoside surfactants is that you always need a co-emulsifier with them. The claims of “one-pot emulsification” are mainly false. Not a problem in formulating, mind you, just one of marketing credibility. Also, stay out of the sub-6.0 pH range. Instability may ensue. Preservation is not an issue; these are not the nonionics that interfere with formaldehyde donors.
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Regardless of any Standards, you may wish to know that these glucosides’ skin irritation index declines with higher alkyl homolog length. E.g. “coco-” is safer then “decyl”.
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MCT should work OK, but I’ll add that Finsolv TN is a far better extender/wetting agent for mineral pigments than anything else in there.
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Mark’s and Belassi’s cheeky comments aside (Donovan - haven’t heard that singer’s name in a long while!), you can and should use lipholyzed banana powder for a hair mask - it works great for a softening effect, and has a little rheology benefit too. You need to buy it from a food purveyor (hint: Chiquita makes it here in the USA), not a cosmetic specialty house. That supply chain only makes extracts, and will not work the same. Regarding preservation: ahoy, all parabens on deck! Molds will happen if you don’t heed that advice.
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Pretty sure that diester is lipid soluble so it may not need any co-solvent, depending on what “anhydrous” components you have in there. If using a lot of it in your formula, solubilize/stabilize with C12-15 alkyl benzoate. (What CAN’T Finsolv TN do, I always ask?)
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jrnb, this project was simply a bad idea. Scrap it and move on. Like Bob said, urea is water-soluble only, and it does nothing to soften skin in the solid state form.
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Drop the cyclomethicone and cut or drop the CETAC, since you allude to the fact you are using an analog to DC-949 amodimethicone emulsion (w/CETAC, Trideceth-7) you can just increase that emulsion for better effect. What MW of dimethicone is there? 200CST works best in that format. Otherwise, not bad!
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Well, if that is the case, there is a Midwest SCC meeting tonight, 14-NOV-17, so I may well see these folks there.
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I didn’t know that Universal Beauty Products even had a VT color cosmetics operation, Bob. Are we talking about the same parent company based here in Chicago’s suburbs?
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I like the glyphosphate analogy there, DAS. I just read in C&EN today about limiting DINP (diisononyl phthalate, one of the best plasticizers for PVC, HDPE resins) to 0.10% total, an ineffective level for its purpose. This is one of the most thoroughly studied compounds on planet earth, and has yet to be found substantially harmful at even the most unrealistic exposure levels possible. Perhaps the DINP suppliers should just start calling their product “vegan” like the HBA marketers in the U.S. so bogusly do. Might help their cause.
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Federal - see the monograph.
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ryanou, this is simpler than you may suppose. You only need to add a hydrotrope as co-surfactant here, as nonoxynol-9 is a not exactly hydrophyllic, despite any HLB value attached. I suggest disodium cocoamphodiproprionate, a useful amphoteric hydrotrope (Solvay, Ele’ for sources). A little dab will do ‘ya. Also, CMC doesn’t have any yield value to suspend whatever is to be suspended. I’d drop it.
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Try adding the albumin below 35C. I’ve found when I add serum albumin at too high a temp I get “scrambled eggs” - quite literally!
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I’ve found USP or FG to have a lower cloud point than other grades. Also, try a little butylene glycol to help clarify. Helps “detackify” your formula also.
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Nice little synapsis, David08848, regarding shaving soaps. I’ll add that the order of addition of the alkali has much to do with the outcome as well. Being a soap guy, you know that already. I’ll also add that if the formulator can get past the idea of “soap” and use a “gel” for shaving, the attributes get more diverse and the ingredients and outcome more interesting. I’ll say no more except to hint that luukheum may be onto something with his/her(?) CETAC idea.
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You are in North America I presume? I may be able to help. Most folks do not like to handle methyl methacrylate, etc., etc. Needs certain process controls.
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All that rhelogical mess…just to place a tiny bit of shea butter into your formula. DEL and just add 0.01% shea butter extract, likely miscible in glycerin & PG . Also, I can’t fathom how such a wee level of Zn Sulfate is contributing to “sebum control.” Can you?
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Use C12-15 alkyl benzoate to solubilize the fragrance oil first (assuming it is miscible; most are) then disperse this into cyclomethicone, then slowly add the dimethcones and higher MW silicone derivatives. If it clouds, you may need to increase your cyclomethicone level at the expense of the others - or reduce the fragrance level. What CAN’T Finsolv TN do, I ask you?