chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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I would not label hyaluronic acid “an extract.” Just sayin’
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20% NaCl in a o/w emulsion? Stable? Low viscosity? Sprayable? - good luck with that.
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Metal ion hydrolysis at work. Try using a buffer.
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This is a chemistry question ZivBA. Look into Formation Constants for multivalent metal ions with various sequestrants. Then there are Chelation Values to be researched for these sequestrants. These differ for each ion at different pH ranges. The “tri” sodium EDTA is less effective than “di” for most common ions when the pH is lower than 8.0. Generally, “Tetra” works best for all formulations above pH 7.0.
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What the “high level” you are seeking to emulsify would be the relevant information here. As Perry informs, the polar nature of your oil load would dictate the chemical composition of your emulsifiers, based on the tried & true HLB system. However, as ngarayeva infers, should you have a really high level, then use a polymeric emulsifier such as Pemulen TR-2. That can accommodate up to 40% w/w as long as your formula has no electrolytes. As always mentioned here, put in the lab time and experiment.
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Widget: drop the polysorbate 20 and add more amphoteric (CAPB works OK, though not the best) and that will allow better dilution-deposition of the polyquat-10 onto hair, and you will feel better. Gunther was right: that is a lot of cationic polymer to use, depending on what MW it is.
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Strahl & Pitsch carries the best.
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I did not inquire about the legal status of CBD, guys, nor its efficacy attributes; those I know well - and yes it is still Schedule 1 status as of today. I am interested in knowing the market label logic and presumptions about dosing that it implies. Mark, you partially answered, so thanks. Your client no doubt has to decide what mass “metered dose” is. From what I gleaned, and unless another party weighs in here, these label claims are just bull$&!#. I can put 0.01% w/w into a 60g jar and advise a client to label it “200mg CBD”, even though it only contains 6. Who’s to know and who’s to care? It becomes a morality question only.
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For hydrophiles such as carboxylol cysteine, you may consider ethoxydiglycol (glycol ether DE). It is cheap too. For lipophilic components, dimethyl isosorbide works very well as a penetration enhancer. Still don’t know why it remains so expensive after all these years either.
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Mark, isn’t d-Limonene the factor in that NLP-1 concoction?
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Depends on what tactile effect you are looking for, Spadirect, and what oil/ester combo you are working with. Your’s is a VERY broad question!
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IF there is any U.S. university that conducts SPF testing, it would be one of the few that developed cosmetic science programs: Farleigh Dickenson in NJ, University of Cincinnati in OH, or University of Southern Mississippi in MS.
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All beeswax has a residual odor, even refined, due to the free acid content. If it is too strong, then check the Acid Value of your source and look for a lower one.
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That’s what I was thinking, Dr. Worthen. By “color change” haroon, do you mean “milky” (“like malik” as stated) ? At -3C (25F) a lot of formulations will cloud.
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Try dipropylene glycol to offset the SDA. Used as a fragrance fixative too!
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If you are in central North America I recommend Bria Research Labs in Libertyville, Illinois. [www.brialab.net] These folks are old hands at claims substantiation.
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At such low water activity with 10% glycerin, your risk factor is extremely low. Having said that, the wetted bar becomes a factor for mold growth (bacteria not so much). In the good ‘ol days 0.10% propylparaben in there would do the trick well. Put it in there and don’t tell anyone?
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That is a lot of GHPTC in there, twice what I would have used. You are correct in adding the amphoteric before any else, as that is the hydrotrope here. I’ll bet you need a LOT more of it or use a different one. Best one to use: disodium cocoapmphodipropionate (40% standard commercial). Works every time.
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ITs the rice starch that is contributing to your rheology and skin conditioning more than the rice protein. No alkali needed. I like the “gruel” moniker. Rice flour can make for quite a thick roux when you cook with it, BTW. Ask any gluten-free chef.
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Funny, every high active DDBSA I ever saw was dark as espresso coffee. The pure 96% acid will darken 304SS when contacting for more than a few hours, but a quick treatment with peracetic acid solution takes care of that. In practice, you always add the alkali to water first (after determination ala Belassi or Stepan lit) then slowly add the LABSA or DDBSA to the mixture until done. Cheapest way to make laundry detergent.
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Gunther: I am skeptical about that 50% DM200 holding up for very long, with just 1.5% BTMC at work, I don’t care what Croda states. In your formula, you used volatile silicone, I see. That will evaporate once on the hair - you OK with that? Also, try using the smaller DMC polymer (200) rather than 350 and your spray pattern should improve a bit.
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For “bush soap” - meaning a liquid that will clean your hands, utensils, dishes, clothes even, I’d blend together 5.0 - 10.0% sodium lauryl sulfate 98% powder (Stepanol WA-100) with sodium bicarbonate as base, ass 1.0% tetrasodium EDTA as anti-deposition aid, then call it soap when diluted 1: 20. This will dissolve in water far easier than those other solid-state surfactants mentioned.
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The debate over conditioning effectiveness between these two polymers continues on…but my vote goes for low MW Polyquaternium-10 (aka Polymer JR-400) in shampoo/cleanser systems. Some folks hedge and use both. As for build-up, the cationic guar usually will build less, but that may depend upon what else you have with it, e.g. dimethicone.
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NOT an emulsifier - as Belassi pointed out - but forms lamellar liquid crystal micelles WITH a primary emulsifier, which thicken your lotion or cream very efficiently.
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No worries: employ a lactate buffer at pH 5 - 6. Urea will always slowly hydrolyze to biuret, ammonium nitrate and eventually ammonia, but that goes with the territory, as everyone knows. Urea creams are one of the oldest “natural” product formulations in existence - nearly 100 years of use. They work well too.