chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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How about just adding a lot of caramel? Cheap and easy: a skin colorant rather than skin lightener? That formula of yours will need a lot of work, though: another story altogether.
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Glucosides notoriously crash guar gum and cationic guar. Change out those surfactants as Mark suggests and you’ll see better stability.
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C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate will work there.
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EDTA (Na2?), sodium benzoate - all those electrolytes, its amazing it stayed together in the first place. Friends don’t let friends use electrolytes in the same formula as carbomers or any other acrylate copolymer. Drop those and your goop will stay together a whole lot better. Adding 1% stearic acid won’t hurt either as ngaryev suggests. That is a lot of TEA for 1.0% Carbopol.
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Affirmative, but not as much.
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All that bentonite is zapping up all your water there. Use a more inert clay like kaolin and you might also add butylene glycol to retard dessication.
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I can’t see Polyqyuat-10 fully hydrating when adding at the end, especially the high MW stuff. ALWAYS add into water only at RT in the first step, mix well while gently heating until fully dispersed and hydrated before adding any other ingredient. Same is true for virtually all polymers and resin gums. Another factoid regarding Polyquaternium-10: do not add chelant (EDTA) to your water before adding/mixing/hydrating or it will take 3X longer. Don’t know why but it does.
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To answer Perry’s original question: I know of no such research paper determining SLS as a harmful element to humans. As for the well-known irritation potential: that is so easy to formulate out of your shampoo product! Once you add counter-irritants (ISML, amphoterics, etc.) that index number comes way down. Regarding @colorfuljulie narrative - she is right. Pureology and other pro brands made claim that SLS was fading color too fast from dyed hair, and they were right. It works too well as a surfactant! That is where I remember the entire “sulfate-free” trend starting more than 20 years ago: in the pro salon and with dyed-hair customers. It escalated from there to the point where too many Chemists Corner followers believe SLS is wrong to use for the wrong reason.
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Hydroxyethylcellulose will not support monovalent electroltyes (e.g. SLS, ALS) or amphiphiles (amphoterics) in high amounts well at all. That is why your viscosity was unstable even before you added NaCl. Try methylcellulose (Methocel from Dow) instead, you’ll feel much better.
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EVchem, you didn’t miss much there. Nice job!
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Brenntag (Deutschland) would be a good place to look. Largest specialty chemical distributor in the world.
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Gaby,you experienced small imbedded air pockets rising to the surface of the product. Keep air entrainment to a minimum next time while mixing - I normally use a spatula fixed with a c-clamp as a baffle inside my beaker for this purpose.
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For terpenes, especially if they include any aromatic heterocyclics, try C12-15 alkyl benzoate as your co-solvent. Works well, easy to source, inexpensive. (Again, what CAN’T Finsolv TN do?)
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Negative.
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Usman, what ngarayeva is saying is that 1.0% glycolic acid will have no desquamation effect, you need to use >10.0% to get any efficacy, plus do not neutralize since it loses efficacy above pH 3. Also ngarayeva means if it is only in your formula as a label ingredient , just add less, or if you are using it as a pH adjuster, use only what you need.
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I agree. Hope they place a North American office/warehouse someday.
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Add it post-emulsification. As to whether stable or not: cannot say as it depends on the other components,method of emulsification, how much glycolic acid you are adding….and…you’ll find out.
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I’d suggest hydroxypropyl guar (cheap as long as the frackers are not using) or even technical grade xanthan gum to suspend that much chalk. Rule out carbomers, since even though calcium carbonate has slight solubility in water, divalent ions will crash. What surfactant to use (“wetting agent”) all depends on your application. When in doubt, use a nonionic, e.g. polysorbate 60.
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Good point, and amine oxides are underrated builders in personal care I might add. Peroxide stability = hypochlorite stability. Let’s just say oxidizer stable - and watch out for those Carbopol analogs too.
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Pharma: no I have not. Curious.
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I may just suggest here, @cberg, that you refrain from building your own manufacturing unit for your product line. As someone who has been involved in contract manufacturing for over 35 years I can warn your headaches will mount so quickly I wouldn’t know where to begin. The state of Florida and its water quality regs make this task especially arduous.
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Redpill, PVA should be peroxide stable, but check with your supplier for grade acceptance. Case in point, even though Carbopols are said to be peroxide stable, I’ve found some grades to be far less so than others. Xanthan gum for the record is NOT peroxide stable.
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I’ll chime in here too. Hydrogenated lecithin can be an effective emulsifier that carries a significant oil load, as you have discovered, plus it is naturally derived. Being mostly phosphatidylchloline/serine it will form o/w emulsions with triglycerides easily - but as Mark says it is prone to microbial growth, though I’ve found adding parabens negates this attribute. (If you are paraben-free, then you are SOL) These lecithin emulsions are not usually stable unless a co-emulsifier (anionic or nonionic) is used. They also tend to have a gloopy appearance, not too elegant, depending on your oil load. Where I have used them best is in microemulsions, where they are outstanding; also lecithin and its phosphoester kin are the ONLY means of forming liposomes as stated in the thread. Hope this helps and keep on experimenting. An aside: LOVED using Bronopol all those years. Can’t anymore, what a shame.
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Sponge, that emulsifier from Evonik is perhaps the most commonly used for w/o inverse phase emulsions, always with a co-emulsifier like the polyhydroxystearate. That’s why you see it so often.
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crillz, I do not think ethylhexl olivate will lend any more stability to this than sorbitan stearate or even glyceryl stearate. I suggest leaving it out. BTW, with all that lecithin in there, and too much xanthan (0.10% will do), why do you need a tertiary emulsifier here? Granted, lecithin gives a somewhat inelegant emulsion, but 1.0% is actually excessive for primary emulsification of this oil phase. You might want to consider Olivem the secondary emulsifier here, and reduce it way down, thus solving your “soaping” issue too.