chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
-
Thanks, that clears it up although you don’t describe which colorant is used - I’ll guess Blue #1/Yellow #5 or Green #6 with Yellow #5 or #6. Either way the Blue or Green is fading while the Yellow remains stable. Add benzephenone-4 (0.01%) to this, put a sample in glass in the windowsill for a while and see what happens.
-
@Sailor polyquaternium-11 is quite stable at the higher temperatures of styling implements, but its film structure will usually crack up and cause shedding under heat stress unless plasticized. Your combining with polyquaternium-7 helps with that. On another note: how the heck does that product spray? Neither of these polymers tends to atomize with a Euromist sprayer; they usually just stream out like most polymers. Is this an aerosol then?
-
@steve-7895 you are manufacturing a microemulsion here - nice idea - where the disperse phase is ~0.10%. The use of FG Tween 80 is a good place to start but you may need to team that with a FG polyglyceryl ester such as polyglcyeryl-6 oleate or polyglceryl-10 dioleate to co-emulsify both the CBD and the veg oil to a stable state. Many microemulsions in the academic literature employ that combination. Also bear in mind not all veggie triacylglcyerides (TAG) are same in places such as this. Use a less polar one having lower polyunsaturated (linoleic, linolenic) fatty acids.
-
@Fekher you’ll need to elaborate on what exactly is defined by “balsam”. My mind goes right to Balsam Peru essential oil, but I somehow think you are working with something else. Please include other ingredients used also. UV destabilization may indeed be the culprit but so might unforeseen interactions.
-
You are advised to add a good amphoteric to this, one that works also as a hydrotrope such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate. The EGDS should be added after all the surfactants are in solution and temperature is 70C or higher, then SLOWLY cool the batch once melted and dispersed. Only 1.0% EGDS is needed to get a nice pearl. Salt usually does not affect stability unless you add gobs of it, e.g.~0.50% plus.
-
Doing the math here - and excluding the coating on those UV screen minerals - I see you have 10.0% emulsifier-builder to emulsify 1.0% oil. That alone is not going to work. This puppy wants to invert Big Time. You also did not divulge your presumably external water phase, so all hope is lost here; and what’s up with the citric acid?
-
No need to omit shea butter, just add a small amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (PEFA) to this such as Polyglyceryl-6 oleate or Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate. PEFA are added to food oils and butters for this same purpose. Food techs call it “kernelling” if I recall.
-
The go-to alkaline cleanser all of us formulators use is Alkanox. This will clean your pot. Someone told me they even saw it in Lowes but I doubt that. You can buy it through lab supply houses (VWR) and through industrial supply houses (McMaster & Carr, W. Grainger)
-
That is a LOT of pigment, but then you are going for the stain so thus it must be that way. Since delivery seems to be the main problem, perhaps change the vehicle from a siloxane derivative to an organic one (i.e. isostearic acid) As for intensity, is there any whitening in your grind, i.e. titanium dioxide? That adds brightness if I recall.
-
<div>@zink these folks do good work and can likely help you with low volume OTC. They are in the Chicago area. You are correct in that your price/unit will be high no matter where you go. Process validation alone adds mucho $$$ to the cost.</div>
Contact - Topical Pharmaceuticals
topicalpharmaceuticals.com
Copyright © 2022 | 1470 West Bernard Drive, Addison, Illinois 60101 | 630-396-3970
-
I’ll take that cyber-beer, make it an IPA. You must reduce the level of PVP there Bigtime. At 5.0% this is going nowhere; 1.0% is more like it especially if PVP K90. Likewise reduce glycerin/propylene glycol level and ratio. Should be < 10.0% total and glycerin: PG at 3:1. Finally PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate adds nothing to these pomades, yet everyone adds it because…well…everyone else does. Get your hands on PEG-25 Lanolin and add 5 - 7 % of THAT and you’ll have a monster hold without any PVP needed.
-
Depending on what is meant by “plant oils”, you should be OK. Go heavy on the C12-15 alkyl benzoate if using a high level of essential oils.
-
Salt thickening works only with monovalent species like NaCl, not Mg++, and nothing will be much help when the surfactant concentration is that low. You’ll have to use an acrylic rheology thickener like Synthalen W600 for that. Coacervation is much too complex a topic for this. I suggest reading Des Goddard’s compilation “Principles of Polymer Chemistry in Cosmetics and Personal Care” and study the chapters Des authored on this.
-
I am quite fond of PEFA (polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids) so I find this work commendable. I recommend using a combination of Dehymuls PGPH and Isolan GI 34 for the sweet spot of w/o emulsification. As for stability, be advised that virtually ALL invert emulsion are intrinsically unstable and will display some separation over time unless there is a rheology stabilizer in place for that continuous phase. A high internal water phase helps also, so you may not have any success here. I have w/Si and w/o samples I made 5 - 8 years ago and they are mainly intact but not 100%. I don’t know what oils you are using but those hectorite Bentone Gel mineral stabilizers are the safe bet. Have you tried their Bentone LUXE WO? That is an all-in-one blend of PEFA with hectorite stabilizer. Check it out.
-
This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by chemicalmatt.
-
This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by
-
Yes you may combine the two. That range serves mainly for the sake of solvency not efficacy. Niacinamide (aka: nicotinamide, but nobody likes to call it that) is a tautomer so it does have a hydrogen relocated depending on the solution pH. Now, you ask is neutral pH OK for sensitive skin? Yes, of course it is.
-
Sodium metabisulfite is very powerful, you only need to use 0.01% in that formulation, plus being a reducing agent (anti-oxidant) it is working against the SAP activity. That solves the garlic thing and gives better efficacy same time. Cool, huh?
-
There are way too many questions here for one post @formuoli so I’ll answer the first one. Coacervation may ONLY occur with an amphoteric/anionic surfactant blend and usually a nonionic builder or hydrotrope is needed too. CAPB and NaCocamphoacetate not working? Try a gemini ampho like disodium cocoamphodiacetate. BTW, multivalent salts do not thicken anything and NaCl will not thicken just any surfactant system either - a common error with newbie formulators in this forum - plus I can think of few mineral salts that will dry out your hair more than MgCl2. DO NOT use that.
-
Just to add to @marimaster_3991 comment here: if using triethanolamine be sure to use the 99% not the 85% “freeze protected” grade which has free DEA and unacceptable in the USA. You will get somewhat different hair fixation results using the alkaline hydroxides since AMP, TEA and tromethamine contribute plasticizing to the fixative polymer. Also be advised Glucam E-20 is a solubilizer more than it is a humectant, so combine that in a pre-mix with the Polysorbate 20, Euxyl 9010, and your fragrance for extra gel clarity. Finally, if you need a really clear hair gel and want to save a LOT of money, use Polygel HG from 3V Sigma USA instead of the Carbopol CLEAR stuff. Same exact outcome, much lower cost. (full disclosure: I am the applications director for 3V Sigma USA)
-
@pma I agree with Mark and kethcito that concentrations are needed for your benchmark clone project. I’ll agree with Perry that these formulator “consultants” are not very astute especially when they disrespect mineral oil and paraffin. Suspend all of the botanicals and market-trendy add-ons here and you have a basic w/o emulsion that is being hindered with ingredients indicated for o/w emulsions and it does not like that one bit. The “consultants” should have seen that and reformulated accordingly dropping many of these ingredients (do not assume the Shiseido peeps were on the ball either.) The polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and glyceryl oleate is the primary emulsifier while beeswax/mineral oil/microcrystalline wax/paraffin forms what we call an “absorption base” in cosmetic science parlance, and typically used to stabilize w/o systems. The polyethylene may have been added to hinder syneresis, but that can create “grainy” appearance on its own. DELETE carbomer, PCA, sodium glutamate, lauroyl glutamate, sodium lactate, metabisulfite (why?? when there is tocopherol already there), polysorbate 20, alcohol…virtually any material in the internal (water) phase that has no reason to be there; or at least add at only 0.001%. Always premix those iron oxide pigments into oils or glycerin first (the “grind”) in this case likely that PPG dimethyl ether wetting agent and glycerin/glycols. Any more than this and you will need to pay me…on second thought don’t bother, this subject already pisses me off.
-
There is a much simpler & better solution to this: do not use ANY polyol to “pre-mix” xanthan, CMC or any other polymeric gum resin. ALWAYS add resins directly and slowly into water FIRST before adding any other component to it while mixing at high shear for as long as it takes to disperse/hydrate then proceed. A little heating helps too. Where the gum has a high yield value like guar or xanthan, leading to still spots around the edge, just activate the side-sweep agitator on the tank at same time to move that around. If no side-sweep agitator is available recirculate through the pump/transfer line continuously - which you would be doing anyway to prevent plugs, right? If this is a laboratory thing then just employ a spatula around the beaker perimeter. After all my years in this science I still do not understand why so many formulators use that “pre-mix” approach. Please STOP doing that, folks.
-
@Nyatou you already HAVE solubilizers in your formula. You need to add that fragrance directly into the CAPB first and mix well, then slowly add the pre-mix into the SLES shampoo while warm (40C). If that doesn’t work, add a PEG ester (e.g. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-40 castor oil) to pre-mix with the CAPB & fragrance. Those will not compromise viscosity or foam.
-
…what @ketchito said…why would anyone need a chelant in an oil base? What lipid-soluble metal constructs are a threat and what lipid-soluble ingredient might be compromised? I cannot think of ANY need to use one in a medium like that. Can you elaborate?
-
Hi @Abdullah I am still around from time to time. Thank you for citing this source - on behalf of everyone. I had heard about this outfit but never knew if it was for real. Thanks to you and @Graillotion for vetting it. Peace.
-
Basically all w/o are not thermodynamically stable but “metastable.” Packaging into PP or HDPE should not affect this too much. The glass wall thing is a mystery to me. I have never seen that but I have seen inversion of w/o emulsions on Tygon transfer hoses, which are silicone based, but only when warm. Must be some tribology effect there we don’t often see? Try cooling the glass jar first to see what happens.
-
Yes, you will need to dissolve it in water to use. It dissolves easily in a minimal amount of water. Use at similar level as AMP-95. Love tromethamine, can’t understand why others don’t use it either. The thing with TEA is the free DEA inherent when using the 85% concentration TEA. IF using 99% triethanolamine solution, there is no DEA and very little MEA and the CoA must state so.