chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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Use the Caframo mixer. No contest.
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@Margaret the answer: a LOT of xylitol. That is the only sweetener listed so I’ll wager >10 % else this might make you puke with all that soap and carbonate. Also, this IS a solid state formula (powder).
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Rapidgel EZ1 (3V Sigma USA) is a liquid that will thicken water-based formulations without any further neutralization needed. Drop in, mix 15 minutes, move on.
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Thanks, Mike. Patchouli was the scent of choice for hippie chicks when I was a young man. Always reminds me of 1970’s love affairs.
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When I used to manufacture alkaline relaxers (pH 13) I’d always inform my fragrance supplier of the application. Likewise, even more importantly, whenever the product was going to be a hot fill where bulk batch is held for 10 hours at 65C. They know the content of the fragrance and can inform & guide you. If that is not an option, just treat two swatches with the acid relaxer (carboxylol cysteine?), keep one out at RT as a control, subject the test swatch to the heating conditions, then comparison smell with a younger nose. Repeat two more times and get the 411.
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I’ll take a stab here. Not knowing the grade of kaolin, but seeing you have not included a water-soluble alkali to saponify at least some of that stearic acid, then free calcium, magnesium, or aluminum ions from the kaolin are forming an oil soap with the stearic acid. That would present itself as a “swelling” or souffle’ texture on cooling to RT. Only mystery is this usually takes many days to appear, not immediately, so might be another effect.
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Negative, not at that level since your combustibility is below the threshold limit. You will not be able to sell that in California, however, due to CARB limits.
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@Abdullah The researchers chose a 1:5 mole ratio perhaps arbitrarily. Regardless: thank you so much for sharing this article. It explains a lot about LLC formation with fatty alcohols. Many thanks to you my friend.
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Caframo mixers are the best! They are sold through VWR and other distributors. They can speed as high as 3000 rpm, so get a Cowles type (saw tooth) blade along with your standard blade and you will essentially have a homogenizer too as long as your project volume is smaller than 2000ml.
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This reply was modified 4 months, 3 weeks ago by chemicalmatt.
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This reply was modified 4 months, 3 weeks ago by
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Since @ketchito capably answered #2, I’ll go to #1: use Na2 EDTA, its sequestering activity is not compromised by cationics; and #3: to thicken just add cetyl alcohol or stearyl or both. Fatty alcohols highly associate with Polyquaternium-37, boosting viscosity.
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The resource I and many others recommend in the USA is McKernan [www.mckernan.com]
mckernan.com
McKernan Packaging offers wholesale bottles, surplus bottles and wholesale jars to customers worldwide. Offering continuous stock bottles, jars and packaging such as sprayers, pumps and closures at discount wholesale prices in bulk.
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I surmise you have not actually compounded this in your laboratory yet? Whatever, see if you can get hold of Polyglcyeryl-4 Caprate or Polyglcyeryl-4 Stearate. Use either at >1.0% with that GSC too. Also I might add triethyl citrate (5.0%? yikes!) and zinc ricinoleate are doing 99% of the deodorizing there so DEL that “decalact deo” stuff, save some coin. And yes, you may SUB in euxyl9010. If you do so you won’t need all that citric acid/sodium citrate either - but then you will need to add TGDA since buffered citric acid was doing double-duty as the chelant there.
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Thanks, that clears it up although you don’t describe which colorant is used - I’ll guess Blue #1/Yellow #5 or Green #6 with Yellow #5 or #6. Either way the Blue or Green is fading while the Yellow remains stable. Add benzephenone-4 (0.01%) to this, put a sample in glass in the windowsill for a while and see what happens.
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@Sailor polyquaternium-11 is quite stable at the higher temperatures of styling implements, but its film structure will usually crack up and cause shedding under heat stress unless plasticized. Your combining with polyquaternium-7 helps with that. On another note: how the heck does that product spray? Neither of these polymers tends to atomize with a Euromist sprayer; they usually just stream out like most polymers. Is this an aerosol then?
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@steve-7895 you are manufacturing a microemulsion here - nice idea - where the disperse phase is ~0.10%. The use of FG Tween 80 is a good place to start but you may need to team that with a FG polyglyceryl ester such as polyglcyeryl-6 oleate or polyglceryl-10 dioleate to co-emulsify both the CBD and the veg oil to a stable state. Many microemulsions in the academic literature employ that combination. Also bear in mind not all veggie triacylglcyerides (TAG) are same in places such as this. Use a less polar one having lower polyunsaturated (linoleic, linolenic) fatty acids.
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@Fekher you’ll need to elaborate on what exactly is defined by “balsam”. My mind goes right to Balsam Peru essential oil, but I somehow think you are working with something else. Please include other ingredients used also. UV destabilization may indeed be the culprit but so might unforeseen interactions.
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You are advised to add a good amphoteric to this, one that works also as a hydrotrope such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate. The EGDS should be added after all the surfactants are in solution and temperature is 70C or higher, then SLOWLY cool the batch once melted and dispersed. Only 1.0% EGDS is needed to get a nice pearl. Salt usually does not affect stability unless you add gobs of it, e.g.~0.50% plus.
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Doing the math here - and excluding the coating on those UV screen minerals - I see you have 10.0% emulsifier-builder to emulsify 1.0% oil. That alone is not going to work. This puppy wants to invert Big Time. You also did not divulge your presumably external water phase, so all hope is lost here; and what’s up with the citric acid?
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No need to omit shea butter, just add a small amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (PEFA) to this such as Polyglyceryl-6 oleate or Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate. PEFA are added to food oils and butters for this same purpose. Food techs call it “kernelling” if I recall.
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The go-to alkaline cleanser all of us formulators use is Alkanox. This will clean your pot. Someone told me they even saw it in Lowes but I doubt that. You can buy it through lab supply houses (VWR) and through industrial supply houses (McMaster & Carr, W. Grainger)
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That is a LOT of pigment, but then you are going for the stain so thus it must be that way. Since delivery seems to be the main problem, perhaps change the vehicle from a siloxane derivative to an organic one (i.e. isostearic acid) As for intensity, is there any whitening in your grind, i.e. titanium dioxide? That adds brightness if I recall.
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<div>@zink these folks do good work and can likely help you with low volume OTC. They are in the Chicago area. You are correct in that your price/unit will be high no matter where you go. Process validation alone adds mucho $$$ to the cost.</div>
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I’ll take that cyber-beer, make it an IPA. You must reduce the level of PVP there Bigtime. At 5.0% this is going nowhere; 1.0% is more like it especially if PVP K90. Likewise reduce glycerin/propylene glycol level and ratio. Should be < 10.0% total and glycerin: PG at 3:1. Finally PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate adds nothing to these pomades, yet everyone adds it because…well…everyone else does. Get your hands on PEG-25 Lanolin and add 5 - 7 % of THAT and you’ll have a monster hold without any PVP needed.
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Depending on what is meant by “plant oils”, you should be OK. Go heavy on the C12-15 alkyl benzoate if using a high level of essential oils.
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Salt thickening works only with monovalent species like NaCl, not Mg++, and nothing will be much help when the surfactant concentration is that low. You’ll have to use an acrylic rheology thickener like Synthalen W600 for that. Coacervation is much too complex a topic for this. I suggest reading Des Goddard’s compilation “Principles of Polymer Chemistry in Cosmetics and Personal Care” and study the chapters Des authored on this.