• Formulating

  Matte clay pomade problem, when it begins to cool it “swells”

  Posted by santino.sancilio on November 25, 2024 at 8:40 pm

  <pre data-placeholder=”Traducción” data-ved=”2ahUKEwj1t72n-viJAxXoqZUCHQMnBYcQ3ewLegQICxAU” aria-label=”Texto traducido: Problems with matte clay pomade
  This is my formula:

  The problem I have is that once this emulsion starts to cool it "swells up", I tried mixing it more gently but it still "swells up"
  Does anyone know where the problem could be?”>

  Problems with matte clay pomade

  This is my formula:

  WATER PHASE:

  Water (Aqua) – 40.0%

  Propylene Glycol (Propylene Glycol) – 7.91%

  PVP K30 (PVP) – 5.93%

  Clay (Kaolin) – 19.78%

  Propylparaben (Propylparaben) – 0.20%

  OIL PHASE:

  Polysorbate 80 (Polysorbate 80) – 12.17%

  Glyceryl Monostearate (Glyceryl Monostearate) – 8.96%

  Stearic Acid (Stearic Acid) – 4.08%

  Soy Wax (Glycine Soja (Soybean) Wax) – 7.42%

  Methylparaben (Methylparaben) – 0.20%

  END PHASE:

  Fragrance (Parfum) – 0.93

  The problem I have is that once this emulsion starts to cool it “swells up”, I tried mixing it more gently but it still “swells up”

  Does anyone know where the problem could be?

  I bring the aqueous phase to 75 Celsius and the oil phase to 75 Celsius, I combine them and start with a slight agitation until achieving the emulsion, at 60 Celsius I add the essence, but as I mentioned, when it begins to cool it “swells”

  i need help please

  santino.sancilio replied 6 days, 22 hours ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
• 2 Replies

• 

  chemicalmatt

  Member

  November 26, 2024 at 1:15 pm

  I’ll take a stab here. Not knowing the grade of kaolin, but seeing you have not included a water-soluble alkali to saponify at least some of that stearic acid, then free calcium, magnesium, or aluminum ions from the kaolin are forming an oil soap with the stearic acid. That would present itself as a “swelling” or souffle’ texture on cooling to RT. Only mystery is this usually takes many days to appear, not immediately, so might be another effect.

  • 

    santino.sancilio

    Member

    November 26, 2024 at 7:04 pm

    <pre data-placeholder=”Traducción” data-ved=”2ahUKEwi1utqkqPuJAxXxBLkGHXBzCFQQ3ewLegQICxAU” aria-label=”Texto traducido: The "puffing" effect appears after a few hours, when the ointment reaches room temperature at approximately 25 Celsius.
    What could I change in the formula if you know, it would be very helpful”>The “puffing” effect appears after a few hours, when the ointment reaches room temperature at approximately 25 Celsius.
    What could I change in the formula if you know, it would be very helpful

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