[chemicalmatt]

@Monty Other than pinning this problem back on the client who “formulated” it, not much you can do without DEL/ADD other ingredients. The starch and MgOH2 are in suspension as Graillotion mentioned, as this is anhydrous (correct?), so your problem is with stearyl alcohol. Subbing ceresine or microcrystalline wax for C18OH will help immensely, and adding a little polyglyceryl ester will keep it from mushing too, but they insist on you using their formula right? My question is: what the heck is suspending those solid-state “active” powders? Not that either is actually deodorizing anything, mind you, but during a hot-fill operation you need some yield value to maintain suspension while filling and cooling. See: quaternium-18 hectorite in most suspensoid antipersiprants having the dreaded aluminum-zirconium active ingredients.

[chemicalmatt]

@mariamu96 Those scrubs are anhydrous or close enough to it. Glycerin is usually the main diluent so no preservation needed, although I advise an antifungal to retard mold. Not critical but advised.

[chemicalmatt]

There is a simple solution here - call it a hack. Add a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester such as Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate or Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, to your formulation and you will no longer see blooming again. These PEFA surfactants have been used in food tech for 60 years for this same purpose. These also retard the cloud point in oils if you ever formulate a massage oil. Works same way. Best one in solid state balms is Caprol ET from Abitec: Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate. 

[chemicalmatt]

@raiyana just don’t reproduce that Ashland formula Mark shared for sale in the USA. BEMT is not allowed here.  

[chemicalmatt]

@Lab (really? How about LabMonster or LabWarrior instead? A little creativity here please) First you’ll need to use ceteareth-25 or 30 since CT-20 doesn’t quite have enough hydrophilicity to stay dispersed. Second, if we assume you meant to write PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil not “PEG-40”, you need to increase that upwards. Finally, you need to include a polyol such as glycerin, butylene glycol or propylene glycol (>5.0%) or this will never be anything but useless gloop. The polyol and the PEGylated surfactant both act to stabilize gellation and lower the set point of the final product. Adding a fixative such as PVP/VA is optional but advised if edge control is the game.

[chemicalmatt]

I was tasked with developing a nano-emulsion carrying tolnaftate, the antifungal API to treat nail fungus. Trick was to maintain a low viscosity so this could dispense from an applicator tube. Tolnaftate does not like to dissolve in anything, so I first solved that issue (as in dis-“solved”, pun intended). Formulating a Windsor Type o/w microemulsion was relatively easy since I formulated those for the haircare market many years before. Getting the viscosity to quell - not gel - proved hardest. After many tries, I succeeded. My name is on the patent. The takeaway: packaging matters.

[chemicalmatt]

With a strong anionic system such as that, you are best off with Polyquaternium-7. Doesn’t take much either even though it’s supplied at 10% active.

[chemicalmatt]

So…lesson learned: ignore your manager if he/she is an idiot who never worked with this chemistry before. That’s my take. ALWAYS neutralize acrylate polymers before adding fixative resins unless they are also anionic acrylates themselves. Even then it’s a good idea. Otherwise you get the complex you saw. Also, per discussions, REDUCE the PEG-40 HCO and the coconut oil and fragrance (1.0% Yeesh! This will stank up the hair at that level) down a lot and you should have a product there. Glycerin is a cheap and good plasticizer for fixative resins (prevents flaking) so you can leave it.

[chemicalmatt]

If using the Arianors or acid semi-perms, then pH is a major consideration. Lactate buffers work best, but at the low use levels (<1.0%) there shouldn’t be much pH drift so you can usually do without. 

[chemicalmatt]

May I state the obvious: stop using Sepigel.

[chemicalmatt]

@nmalti, you are simply salting out that Euperlan PK. reduce or delete it and use a resin to thicken instead like the chemists here suggest. 

[chemicalmatt]

@marimaster_3991, good old Promulgen D (cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20) has always been electrolyte tolerant. Add a small bit of Steareth-2 for good measure and you should be fine at nearly any pH too. The polyglyceryl esters (i.e. polyglcyeryl-6 laurate) are electrolyte tolerant also but need co-emulsifiers to succeed.

[chemicalmatt]

@Peta1, yes they may be used together. Disperse and hydrate the Guar HPTC first then heat to insure 100% hydration, add BTMS directly to batch at 85C to melt/mix/disperse, add a little cetyl alcohol, melt/mix, then add lipids or dimethicone if using - then cool very slowly with moderate mixing.

[chemicalmatt]

The classic or “traditional” built cleanser system: anionic: amphoteric: builder (usualy alkanolamide) at a ratio of 4:2:1 solid state. E.g. SLES:CAPB:Cocamide MEA at 12:6:3 percent respectively.

[chemicalmatt]

Hi @Graillotion, do you mean self-emulsifying GMS? I’ll assume so. My experience GSC is a superior emulsifier even to sucrose stearate. As dance partners go, it may be surprising to know which one leads.

[chemicalmatt]

Your formula will need Polygel HG from 3V Sigma USA to obtain best clarity, even at pH 5.8, but more of it than 0.80% for all the reasons @EVchem states. Loose the salt preservatives and add nonionic ones, then you may get this closer to pH6.5.   

[chemicalmatt]

@attapol if you are a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists you may avail over 50 years of technical papers on this topic through their Resource section. Meanwhile get hold of Vivimed Labs USA (Aako in the EU) and ask for assistance using their Jarocol line. This is much an art as it is a science.

[chemicalmatt]

@Anna_Maria that will not  work, the PEG-150DS will crash out. You need to add some of the amphoteric into that hot solution to prevent that. Do you have cocamidopropyl betaine or another in your formula? An alkanolamide can work too. BTW the easiest method of thickening shampoos  - especially sulfate free ones - that are not salt-responsive is to use acrylate copolymers. These are 30% solutions you just drop in and adjust pH when you are done adding the other stuff. Synthalen W-600 works like a charm. 

[chemicalmatt]

Spun-bound polypropylene is cheapest nonwoven media around and strong enough web strength to get through the filling/packaging process, which can be considerable tensile stress, believe me. You need to invoke formulation chemistry here more than textile knowledge. If cost is no issue, have you looked into cotton? Absorbs easily and has softer haptics too. Cost is 3X more though.

[chemicalmatt]

You need to spell out that acronym @thaibinh19, since not everyone in this Forum is versed in that market.  You refer to Sodium Acrylate Polymers that absorb up to 300 times their weight in water, correct? Try Evonik’s, they work best.

[chemicalmatt]

Too many to list here @Cherma.  Begin with alkyl quaternary surfactants and polyquaterniums, add silicones, keratin protein….then keep going. Stay away from alkaline relaxers or alkaline anything.

[chemicalmatt]

@tecnico3vinia that snot-like rheology you seek will only occur if you pair PEG-90M with an acrylic polymer such as carbomer or acrylates copolymer. It is a synergistic effect between them.  And when you do: look out! Because even 1.0% PEG-90M is far too much! 10% will be unworkable. This means of course you will need to DEL those behenyl quats and start from scratch.

[chemicalmatt]

Aqua SF-1 will not hold up with all the cationics. It will not allow coacervation of the PQ-10, which is the “deposit” you are seeking. I suspect HP guar is interfering there too. The problem using acrylate copolymers in conditioning shampoos is they act as anti-redeposition agents: not a good thing, right? They work great for suspension and viscosity build, but that is about it. 
Why not get rid of SF-1 & guar and build viscosity the traditional way? Increase the PQ-10 to >0.50% while you are at it.  DEL the amodimethicone & CETAC & Trideceth-12 blend too. That is designed solely for conditioning and styling products, not shampoos. 

[chemicalmatt]

@MarkBroussard errrr…that would be me, dude. Now I am outed! I’ll share with y’all my mentor here. I worked with and for Ali for many years. Nobody knows more about the chemistry. Chicago was once the Silicon Valley of African American haircare industry; not so much any more.

The Man of Science Who Revolutionised the Afro Hair Industry (blackbeautyandhair.com)

[chemicalmatt]

You will want to add lactic acid to gain the viscosity and stability build with STPDA, generally 3:1 amine to acid (depending on the acid), and as Perry points out, pH4.0 is best. Different acids have pronounced effects with STPDA, i.e. glutamic acid gives you 4X more viscosity than lactic, but is 4X more expensive. You can have a lot of fun here. Another aspect of your conditioner, a Perry also knows, is if your final batch viscosity is running on the low side, just add a little salt solution and it will thicken up big time. Who needs guar HPTC? Just gets in the way.