chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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@Abdullah. A ratio of 2:1 SLES: CAPB will work better at coacervation and dilution-deposition of the silicone and cationic guar combination. Adjust accordingly. I have never seen any good results with dilution-deposition onto hair with the APGs. I would leave it out of this project altogether. The CAPB will remove deposits just fine by itself.
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No need for propylparaben in there. No need for an antioxidant in there either. DEL that and ADD more isopropyl myristate for a better, less expensive shiner. BTW, most of these are based on the silicone gum blends (crospolymers), not straight dimethicone, but if it works….why fix it?
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@lynw: Product safety testing (HRIPT) is not a requirement in the USA if distributing domestically, but it is recommended to do so for legal justification. Remember, it is the litigators not the regulators you need to worry about. Now, if you are exporting to Canada, E.U., U.K., etc, you definitely need to get HRIPT studies done. Your RP will need it for the PIF.
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I don’t know of any “repacker” offering guar HPTC besides UPI Chem but for low-cost/high quality guars of all types at commercial quantities I recommend Economy Polymers in Houston, Texas USA.
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@Lilly, @ketchito is right on here: the “activated” versions (easy to disperse) will foam like this. Straight up HEC foams less.
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Stable. No worries, mate. Only thing to look at is this ethanol based or water based? Even in sealed drums some of the ethanol may aspirate, leading to a gummy polymer solution, yet still useful.
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I dunno’ ’bout “brow soap” having PVP in it…brow fixative maybe? No worries, this product was NOT your idea, so we don’t hold you responsible for the conundrum or the outcome. I cannot say what benchmarks you are looking at, but steareth21 will produce a lotion in this config nearly every time. You must use a homolog having higher degree of ethoxylation. Ceteareth-25 is the usual go-to, ceteareth-30 even better. The fragrance oil itself is emulsifying, so you may want to enhance with butylene glycol, not the propanediol crap. If “natural” index is important, use Brontide from Genomatica. That much PVP isn’t helping the cause either. Given its pseudo-cationic nature, PVP can be a stabilizer or a destabilizer depending on formula conditions - a duality often overlooked by cosmetic chemists. BTW, there is never a need to neutralize nonionic ethoxylates such as these; they are neutral all day.
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Too harsh for shampoo and personal care. Also not very efficient metal chelation (K-value) at acidic pH.
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I’d add 2.0% or so. It will bump up your pH to 12 or so, but also factor into detergency too.
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First, propanediol is virtually same as propylene glycol, and is not as good a solvent so DEL 1,3, propanediol and reduce your cost, improve your product. Likewise for sodium citrate and EDTA; both are chelants so go with one or the other, EDTA being my choice. Next: why do you need Tween 20 in here? I do not see a fragrance oil to solubilize. Leave it out, problem solved. My guess is the citrate is salting out your surfactant causing the cloud. Should you somehow need to employ a surfactant, use the glycereth-XX PEG’s (i.e. glycereth-26) instead. These aid solvation of SalAcid while acting as solubilizers same time - double duty!
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@kajalthakur It doesn’t take much, only 1 - 3%
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I can’t speak for cosmetic brands, but since I am a frequent user of covalo, access to technical data sheets works for me. Covalo does a good job in most aspects. All the marketing glitz with usage levels and applications I usually ignore. Most specialty chemical manufacturers cite their ingredients work for ALL applications, at high loads, which is profoundly idiotic but they do it anyway. Marketing peeps in charge - go figure!
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@Monty Other than pinning this problem back on the client who “formulated” it, not much you can do without DEL/ADD other ingredients. The starch and MgOH2 are in suspension as Graillotion mentioned, as this is anhydrous (correct?), so your problem is with stearyl alcohol. Subbing ceresine or microcrystalline wax for C18OH will help immensely, and adding a little polyglyceryl ester will keep it from mushing too, but they insist on you using their formula right? My question is: what the heck is suspending those solid-state “active” powders? Not that either is actually deodorizing anything, mind you, but during a hot-fill operation you need some yield value to maintain suspension while filling and cooling. See: quaternium-18 hectorite in most suspensoid antipersiprants having the dreaded aluminum-zirconium active ingredients.
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@mariamu96 Those scrubs are anhydrous or close enough to it. Glycerin is usually the main diluent so no preservation needed, although I advise an antifungal to retard mold. Not critical but advised.
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There is a simple solution here - call it a hack. Add a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester such as Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate or Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, to your formulation and you will no longer see blooming again. These PEFA surfactants have been used in food tech for 60 years for this same purpose. These also retard the cloud point in oils if you ever formulate a massage oil. Works same way. Best one in solid state balms is Caprol ET from Abitec: Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate.
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@raiyana just don’t reproduce that Ashland formula Mark shared for sale in the USA. BEMT is not allowed here.
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@Lab (really? How about LabMonster or LabWarrior instead? A little creativity here please) First you’ll need to use ceteareth-25 or 30 since CT-20 doesn’t quite have enough hydrophilicity to stay dispersed. Second, if we assume you meant to write PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil not “PEG-40”, you need to increase that upwards. Finally, you need to include a polyol such as glycerin, butylene glycol or propylene glycol (>5.0%) or this will never be anything but useless gloop. The polyol and the PEGylated surfactant both act to stabilize gellation and lower the set point of the final product. Adding a fixative such as PVP/VA is optional but advised if edge control is the game.
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I was tasked with developing a nano-emulsion carrying tolnaftate, the antifungal API to treat nail fungus. Trick was to maintain a low viscosity so this could dispense from an applicator tube. Tolnaftate does not like to dissolve in anything, so I first solved that issue (as in dis-“solved”, pun intended). Formulating a Windsor Type o/w microemulsion was relatively easy since I formulated those for the haircare market many years before. Getting the viscosity to quell - not gel - proved hardest. After many tries, I succeeded. My name is on the patent. The takeaway: packaging matters.
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With a strong anionic system such as that, you are best off with Polyquaternium-7. Doesn’t take much either even though it’s supplied at 10% active.
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So…lesson learned: ignore your manager if he/she is an idiot who never worked with this chemistry before. That’s my take. ALWAYS neutralize acrylate polymers before adding fixative resins unless they are also anionic acrylates themselves. Even then it’s a good idea. Otherwise you get the complex you saw. Also, per discussions, REDUCE the PEG-40 HCO and the coconut oil and fragrance (1.0% Yeesh! This will stank up the hair at that level) down a lot and you should have a product there. Glycerin is a cheap and good plasticizer for fixative resins (prevents flaking) so you can leave it.
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If using the Arianors or acid semi-perms, then pH is a major consideration. Lactate buffers work best, but at the low use levels (<1.0%) there shouldn’t be much pH drift so you can usually do without.
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May I state the obvious: stop using Sepigel.
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@nmalti, you are simply salting out that Euperlan PK. reduce or delete it and use a resin to thicken instead like the chemists here suggest.
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@marimaster_3991, good old Promulgen D (cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20) has always been electrolyte tolerant. Add a small bit of Steareth-2 for good measure and you should be fine at nearly any pH too. The polyglyceryl esters (i.e. polyglcyeryl-6 laurate) are electrolyte tolerant also but need co-emulsifiers to succeed.
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@Peta1, yes they may be used together. Disperse and hydrate the Guar HPTC first then heat to insure 100% hydration, add BTMS directly to batch at 85C to melt/mix/disperse, add a little cetyl alcohol, melt/mix, then add lipids or dimethicone if using - then cool very slowly with moderate mixing.