Bobzchemist
Forum Replies Created
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Sodium Copper Chlorophyllin
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What kind of alternate? What is it about the Nylon 10/10 that you have a problem with? (cost, performance, etc.)
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Maybe it’s not in the forum? Perry also puts many useful articles on his blog.
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Raw Material suppliers and their websites are your friends. The time you spend reading supplier literature/talking to sales reps is almost always well worth it.
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I’d have to say that Borax/Boric Acid would be something to avoid in Personal Care products.
It is NOT an emulsifier! Not ever! At least, not by itself, any more than Beeswax is an emulsifier by itself. For either of them to be emulsifiers by themselves is flat out chemically impossible.
The reason it was used, traditionally, is because it’s one of the very few easily obtainable bases through low-tech means. A very, very long time ago (3,000 years?) it was discovered that Borax, when mixed with Beeswax and water, could be made into a w/o cream. It does this by neutralizing the fatty acids naturally present in Beeswax. It is the salts created by that neutralization that are the emulsifiers.
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I think you’d be a lot better off staying anhydrous for as long as you can. Aqueous products increase the difficulty exponentially in terms of formulating, product safety, and regulation when you’re running a business.
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The calculation to go from grams in a recipe to % in a formulation is not hard if you use excel or the equivalent. There are explanations of this on the web.
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Since you’re only a teenager, I’m going to suggest that you talk to a science teacher to give you more guidance on this, but you basically want to change the percentage of beeswax in your formula until you get a consistency you like, and change the percentage of liquid oil to compensate
It would make a great science project - maybe you can get credit for it at school.
If you can get access to jojoba oil, that should make it less greasy. Pretty much any food oil won’t help.
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There are hundreds, maybe thousands, of companies that make labels. Look for a digital printer in your local area.
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That would be perfect for my basement - a creams/lotions mixer and a woodworking drill press, all in one package. What more could you ask for?
Seriously, it’s stuff like this that gets me so annoyed at the lab mixer companies. Something just like this on a lab stand and in different colors would run about $2,000 - $3,000.
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Try some of the food technology websites?
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I don’t think that there are any aerosols made here in the US with that method, because it’s so hard to get a consistent spray, and because oxygen is so corrosive. You might want to try getting a consultant who works with aerosols - try looking here: https://www.spraytm.com/
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Dry binders to try include soaps like Aluminum, Calcium, Magnesium, or Zinc Stearate; finely powdered plastics like polyethylene, nylon, teflon or polylactic acid; and “natural” materials like cellulose, silk, or carnauba wax.
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Also, check on Fiabila (http://www.fiabila.net/), who are worldwide manufacturers.
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That’s a lot of base. Assuming you’re in the EU, if you put your request on the SCS group on LinkedIn, suppliers will come to you.
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Are you using BOV (Bag-on-Valve) technology, or just a standard aerosol? The pressure numbers and propellants your supplier is giving you are typical for BOV systems, where the propellant is completely separated from the product by a flexible bag.
If you are, then no calculations are possible, since there are way too many variables.
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Restaurant supply stores can frequently be a source of instant gratification for buying lab supplies.
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It is much much safer to buy a pre-made base.
https://www.brambleberry.com/nourish-lip-balm-base-p5231.aspx
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Not entirely sure why this link didn’t work but the next post does. Oh well.
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Another possibility is a very interesting raw material from Kemin, called Lysofix. INCI name is Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, but has a big chunk of lysophospholipids in it, which act as emulsifiers.
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I agree with adding a silicone, either as a fluid or a wax. The Dow Corning HIP (High Internal Phase) emulsions are an easy (but expensive) way to do this.
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Almost all companies dry press their pressed powders. You also might want to look into using both a dry binder and an oil binder at the same time.
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Claire,
From what I know about the way acne happens, it is extremely, even exceptionally, unlikely that modern grooming habits “created” or even exacerbated acne. Just not physiologically possible.
For an acne expert, though, you’re either going to have to find a dermatologist, or a chemist with tons of experience. I’d suggest looking for one or both on the SCC/SCS LinkedIn groups.
Bob
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So, I misunderstood your question a bit. You don’t want to make the bluish-white look into a yellowish-white look, you want the entire white look to go away. That means that you will need to use a different brand/grade of TiO2 and/or ZnO.
The only way to do this is to get smaller, more tightly-controlled particle sizes. Processing will not affect this at all. You need to have particles that are sized small enough not to reflect visible light, but are large enough to reflect UV light. It may take some time/experimentation to find, but there are products that will do this.
For a SPF 55, you probably won’t have room for anything like Boron Nitride, which is OK, because it would only make the problem worse anyway.