Bobzchemist
Forum Replies Created
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To answer your question about measuring, you will also need to understand the concepts of density/bulk density and specific gravity.
To make a batch from a % formula, you simply multiply each ingredient percent times the total batch weight you want.
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Agreed. Unless you can come up with a valid reason for being incapable of searching for formulas on your own, like some sort of disability. Otherwise, we can’t help you until you’ve done your own searching and some level of formulating first.
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In my experience, in some (not all) emulsion systems, there’s a spectrum of emulsifier levels:
Not enough emulsifier for stability>just enough emulsifier for stability if the emulsion is homogenized>enough emulsifier for stability no matter how the emulsion is made>more emulsifier than you need (possibly irritating).
If formula cost or non-irritating is a big issue, AND you have homogenizers in your production facility, it may be worth the time and effort to find that “sweet spot” of just enough emulsifier - but those cases have been rare, in my experience.
On the other hand, pigmented emulsions absolutely require homogenizers and/or colloid mills for stability - but it’s not because the emulsion needs it, it’s because the pigments need to be uniformly suspended as the emulsion is developed, or you’ll have stability issues.
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Try it and see.
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Some of the “Stearic Acid” sold commercially has significant amounts of palmitic acid, as well. If you can, try for 95% or greater C18.
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I’ve used Potassium Oleate as a good thickener, but it restricts you to high pH products.
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@jeremien, you’re right, I probably should have clarified - the high pressure homogenizers used for dairy products (Gaulin, Crepaco, etc.) are almost always unsuitable for cosmetics due to their inability to handle viscosities much higher than water. Nano-emulsions, if they’re thin enough, might be an exception.
There are high-pressure homogenizers (Microfluidizers, etc.) that are specifically designed for cosmetics and higher viscosity fluids.
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If I had to make 100ml batches, I think I’d try using these:
https://www.amazon.com/100ml-3-4oz-Plastic-Micro-Centrifuge/dp/B00N3YIEI0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485966166&sr=8-4&keywords=100ml+centrifuge+tubewith one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/LabGenius-MI0101001-Mini-Vortex-Mixer-Clear/dp/B01CLLBZ6S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485966224&sr=8-1&keywords=test+tube+mixer -
I agree with Bill, we tend to use “homogenizer” as a general term to talk about rotor/stator mixers.
This causes confusion because other industries/fields use the term differently.
In dairy processing, for example, a homogenizer is a high-pressure mixer used to emulsify milk fat into milk, and is completely unsuitable for cosmetics.
In biology, homogenizer is used as shorthand for a “tissue homogenizer”, which aren’t quite the same thing as the homogenizer/mixers we talk about here as homogenizers. This, I think, causes the most confusion, particularly among beginners.
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If you find you absolutely must homogenize, you can do so on a small scale manually using these:
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One of each would be a much better use of ~$900:
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Have you looked at qosmedix?
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Check on the SCS group at LinkedIn.
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Water content varies too much to make assumptions like that.
Easy way to determine water level: weigh sample, put in oven at 105C for two hours, weigh sample again.
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That, and get yourself a small spice/coffee grinder. Using this should get rid of your grainy problem. One with removable containers would be ideal:
https://www.amazon.com/KitchenAid-BCG211OB-Blade-Coffee-Grinder/dp/B00CT9XZMA/ref=lp_14092831_1_11?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1485433335&sr=1-11 -
I’m fine with an “off-topic” category and occasional posts like this. Someone coming here just to do this, though, would definitely cross the line, as would even active members doing this frequently.
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Have you checked with Kolmar? Mana? Any of the established makeup contract manufacturers?
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Also, creating the pigments themselves requires several million dollars worth of very complex machinery. Buying them is really the only option, unless you have several million dollars sitting around - in which case, I have some great investment opportunities I want to tell you about…
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Great article - I loved it, but really technical.
Short duochrome explanation:
If you plate mica with titanium dioxide carefully enough, it will reflect only one color of light. You will get a white powder that reflects red, blue, gold, etc. These are called interference pearls.If you then coat these interference pearls with a color pigment, you get intense colors - blue on top of blue reflecting, red on top of red reflecting, etc.
But, if you use mismatched pigments to the reflections, you get duochromes - blue pigment/red reflection, red pigment/blue reflection, etc.
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If you look at other commercial transparent soap formulations, you will see several sugar-based ingredients. Sugar browns very well with heat. Maybe these other ingredients will also?
That’s the last hint I can give - this is too close to what I’m currently working on for any more.