Forum Replies Created

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  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 7, 2018 at 7:57 am in reply to: Vegan preservative for lotion and scrubs

    to be quite honest, I can’t think of a single preservative which wouldn’t be suitable for vegans

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 6, 2018 at 7:01 pm in reply to: Test for Metallic Salts

    Indian Standard IS 7159:1984 lists a number of test methods for henna powder, including testing for adulterants and extraneous sand - it may very well be helpful for your purposes

    flame atomic absorption spectrocopy is most rigorous way to test for metals, but there are many qualitative methods too; for instance, certain dyes (methylthymol blue, xylenol orange, eriochrome black T) change colour in the presence of metal ions

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 3, 2018 at 1:10 am in reply to: EU opinion on Phenoxyethanol - Margin of Safety

    this is the full text of the opinion in question; the MoS calculations are on page 72 and 73

    the conclusion is on page 83:


    1. Does SCCS consider Phenoxyethanol safe for use as a preservative with a maximum concentration of 1.0 %, taking into account the information provided?
    The SCCS considers phenoxyethanol safe for use as a preservative with a maximum concentration of 1.0%, taking into account the information provided.
    2. The SCCS is asked, when making the assessment, to take into account the specific age groups who might be particularly susceptible to the effects of Phenoxyethanol used as preservatives in cosmetic products.
    The toxicokinetics default factor of 4.0 can be reduced to 1.0 yielding a minimum Margin of Safety (MoS) of 25 instead of 100 for the safety assessment of 2-phenoxyethanol.  Therefore, the MoS of about 50 for children also covers this specific age group who might be higher exposed to 2-phenoxyethanol than adults.

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 2, 2018 at 3:28 pm in reply to: Hair colour - Basic Red Dye issue

    Basic Red 76 is poorly soluble in water; what else have you got in the formula?

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 1, 2018 at 9:56 am in reply to: Saturated Fatty Acids

    yes, ‘light’ and ‘heavy’ are generally used to refer to the physical sensations rather than the actual weight

    the best explanation of molecular volume is an illustration:

    space-filling model of stearic acid (unsaturated C18 acid)
    space-filling model of oleic acid (monounsaturated C18 acid)

    (the black parts represent carbon atoms, the white parts represent hydrogen atoms, and the red parts represent oxygen atoms)

    because it has two rotational axes rather than one, oleic acid takes up more space than stearic acid

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 1, 2018 at 12:55 am in reply to: Preservative questions

    we have a container of sodium hydrosulphite in the lab… it’s the worst-smelling thing on site (even worse than the thioglycolic acid we use in perms), and because of this I’ve nicknamed it the Tub Of Death

    the smell is so vile the technicians won’t even go near it

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 1, 2018 at 12:53 am in reply to: Re: Appropriate pH buffer

    the easiest way to achieve the result you want is to reduce the level of acid, and/or use weaker acids

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 1, 2018 at 12:48 am in reply to: Saturated Fatty Acids

    on a fundamental level, it’s due to the shape of the molecules

    saturated and trans-unsaturated fatty acids adopt a linear configuration, which means they occupy a relatively low volume of space and can move freely

    cis-unsaturated fatty acids, by their nature, can only adopt a cuneiform (wedge-shaped) configuration, because the double bond is completely inflexible, so they occupy a much larger volume of space than linear fatty acids and cannot move as freely

    as a result, they have higher melting and boiling points than the linear fatty acids with the same carbon chain length, and are usually liquids at room temperature; the linear fatty acids with the same carbon chain length are usually solids, which gives them a different skin feel

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 25, 2018 at 11:48 pm in reply to: Hair relaxer

    somebody will have experience with that kind of product, yes

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 25, 2018 at 11:45 pm in reply to: My rinse off conditioner

    if you’re talking about the kinematic viscosity, measured in centistokes, the ‘ideal’ value depends on what kind of effect you’re trying to achieve

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 25, 2018 at 11:43 pm in reply to: Oxidation of hydroquinone

    when it comes to preventing oxidation, the easiest way is to exclude as much oxygen from the packaging as possible; the best way to achieve this in practise is to fill your product into an aluminium tube

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 22, 2018 at 11:14 pm in reply to: Preservative questions

    apropos of nothing, the human nose is extraordinarily sensitive to grapefruit mercaptan; it can be smelt in the parts-per-billion range

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 22, 2018 at 1:55 am in reply to: warming

    anything which moderates the action of vanillyl butyl ether can only be a good thing

    I can vividly remember putting one drop of it on the back of my hand and feeling nothing at first, but after a few minutes my hand felt like it was on fire; although there was no evident irritation or inflammation, the feeling persisted for several hours afterwards

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 20, 2018 at 11:53 am in reply to: pH in w/si liquid foundation

    in a W/Si emulsion the continuous phase (silicone) is non-conductive and non-protic, so it doesn’t have a pH; or rather, any reading obtained on a pH meter is meaningless

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 19, 2018 at 11:39 pm in reply to: Panthenol Based Hair Treatment without Quats

    but hydroxypropyltrimonium guar is a quat

    the full name for it is “hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium guar chloride”; granted, it is a mouthful, but shows its true nature

    @Belassi my best guess is that the level of residual impurities (unreacted monomers, which are much more harmful than the finished polymer) is not routinely tested on Rheovis CDE, and for that reason, a company as large as BASF is not willing to sell it for direct human-use applications without some kind of assurance that it’s safe for that purpose

    however, the fact they sell very similar products specifically for human use means that the demand for human-use Rheovis CDE is insufficient for them to consider implementing those extra process and QC checks, so they play it safe by restricting its sale for use in laundry products only

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 19, 2018 at 12:17 pm in reply to: Preservative questions

    @Doreen technically it is, but the question is how volatile

    in this paper, the authors recorded the vapour pressure of phenoxyethanol as 0.7 mmHg at 84.5°C and 19.4 mmHg at 135°C

    for comparison, the vapour pressure of water at 85°C is around 430 mmHg (and atmospheric pressure at sea level is around 760 mmHg)

    although its vapour pressure is very low at room temperature, the fact it can be smelt implies the human nose is very sensitive to it

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 14, 2018 at 11:34 pm in reply to: Regulation Update: Cyclosiloxanes in the EU

    the European Parliament does not take these matters lightly; they employ expert committees in order to make a properly informed decision (and prevent lobbying), and if they do impose restrictions, there will be hard scientific evidence behind them, which will be made available for public viewing

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 14, 2018 at 11:14 pm in reply to: Where I can get PVP?

    if you’re happy about buying chemicals from China, several sellers on Alibaba have a minimum order quantity of 1 kg

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 14, 2018 at 8:20 am in reply to: how does this formulation work?

    @PeiHoong taking an educated guess, it’s most likely the combination of Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer and microcrystalline wax, and the fact there’s very little water in it

    do you have the equipment and reagents to do a Karl Fischer test? that’ll tell you exactly how much water there is in it

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 13, 2018 at 11:00 pm in reply to: kojic acid & glycollic acid cream stability problem

    is the entire product going dark, or just the surface?

    is the discoloration uniform, or does it just happen in irregular patches?

    if possible, a photo would be very helpful

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 13, 2018 at 8:22 pm in reply to: Anyone know what can be used to gel an alcohol (absent water)?

    @medaura all you need to know can be found in this manufacturer’s brochure

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 13, 2018 at 8:20 pm in reply to: how does this formulation work?

    it’s not an emulsion, it’s an oil-based suspension

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 13, 2018 at 9:31 am in reply to: NACL AND GLYCERIN IN WATER PHASE

    salt also brings you good luck if you throw a pinch of it over your left shoulder

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 12, 2018 at 8:54 pm in reply to: Polymers in styling products

    besides generic polymers like PVP and VP/VA copolymers, there’s a huge range of styling resins available; BASF, Ashland and Akzo Nobel are the big players in the market

    a combination of hard waxes and volatile oils will give you the dry texture - formulating water-based styling products is a subtle art, as it’s one of the most complex product types you’re likely to come across

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 12, 2018 at 8:41 pm in reply to: NACL AND GLYCERIN IN WATER PHASE

    in W/O and W/Si emulsions, salt increases the surface tension of the water phase, allowing it to be emulsified (and stay emulsified) more easily

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