how does this formulation work?

Formulating

how does this formulation work?

Posted by PeiHoong on February 8, 2018 at 1:34 pm

I’m developing a metallic liquid lipstick recently and make NYX Liquid Suede Metallic Matte as my benchmark. The LOI is as below:

Isododecane, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Cera Microcristallina / Microcrystalline Wax / Cire Microcristalline, Tin Oxide, Water/Aqua/Eau, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Glycerin, Sodium Chloride, Silica, Alumina, Aluminum Hydroxide, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Barium Sulfate (CI 77120). MAY CONTAIN / PEUT CONTENIR (+/-): Red 7 (CI 15850), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 28 (CI 45410), Red 30 Lake (CI 73360), Carmine (CI 75470), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Manganese Violet (CI 77742), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Mica.

I found that the formula contains water without any emulsifier. May I know if do I miss any emulsifier or how can it works without emulsifier? What’s the theory behind?

Can anybody help me to figure it out?

Many thanks in advance!!!!

PeiHoong replied 6 years, 3 months ago 8 Members · 16 Replies
16 Replies

David

Member
February 9, 2018 at 5:40 pm

If you have glycerine you have (traces of) water.
Doreen

Member
February 10, 2018 at 12:20 pm

@David
The LOI also names water/aqua/eau. The question is which one is the emulsifier or how can this be emulsified without one. (or it isn’t listed).
PeiHoong

Member
February 10, 2018 at 1:46 pm

@David @Doreen81 that’s my question….how can a formula with water and oil works without emulsifier…
David08848

Member
February 10, 2018 at 8:28 pm

Aluminum Hydroxide? I looked it up and got this as an answer:

“The pH level of aluminum hydroxide is 9.5”

That may mean that the Aluminum Hydroxide is part of a soap-based emulsion in this product. Let’s see if the experts here have any observations about this. Good Luck to you, PeiHoong!
belassi

Member
February 10, 2018 at 9:16 pm

aluminium hydroxide is a very stable compound and I think the likelihood of it being able to saponify something at room temperature is remote. The table goes K-Na-Ca-Mg-Al-Zn-Fe-Sn so you can see it is not much more reactive than zinc.
David

Member
February 12, 2018 at 6:29 pm

@PeiHoong
What I mean with traces (<0,1%) of water is that it is such a tiny amount that you don’t need an emulsifier. It’s hard to say from the LOI though.
Bill_Toge

Member
February 12, 2018 at 7:31 pm

chances are it’s mixed in with phenoxyethanol and glycerine, which in turn are mixed into the rest of the product

@David08848 depending on the supplier, a number of lake pigments contain aluminium hydroxide, which is most likely where it’s come from
PeiHoong

Member
February 13, 2018 at 7:55 am

@David @Bill_Toge but there is NaCl as well…isn’t it to make the emulsion more stable?
OldPerry

Member
February 13, 2018 at 12:59 pm

NaCl typically makes emulsions less stable.
marytsiang

Member
February 13, 2018 at 2:56 pm

I had the same observation looking the exact same liquid lipstick. Aluminum hydroxide I think that is a part of the colorant. I have used pigments on alumina/aluminum hydroxide,coated e.g. with triethocycaprilsilane.
PeiHoong

Member
February 13, 2018 at 4:08 pm

@Perry serious? It really give me a shock as according to the book “Colour Cosmetics” from Jane C. Hollenberg states that :

w/o emulsions containing electrolytes hae significantly greater resistance to coalescence with improved freeze/thaw stability. Electrolytes function in the water phase to limit the polymeric emulsifier’s solubility in water, forcing the emulsifier to the water/oil interface, thus maximizing effectiveness.

Am I misunderstanding anything from the content? Could you please clarify?

Thanks a lot.

@marytsiang yea…and I identify no emulsifier in this formula….sigh…
Bill_Toge

Member
February 13, 2018 at 8:20 pm

it’s not an emulsion, it’s an oil-based suspension
PeiHoong

Member
February 14, 2018 at 1:14 am

@Bill_Toge u mean the oil suspend the water? but how?
Bill_Toge

Member
February 14, 2018 at 8:20 am

@PeiHoong taking an educated guess, it’s most likely the combination of Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer and microcrystalline wax, and the fact there’s very little water in it

do you have the equipment and reagents to do a Karl Fischer test? that’ll tell you exactly how much water there is in it
OldPerry

Member
February 14, 2018 at 7:34 pm

@PeiHoong - I was referring to non-polymeric emulsions, those based on anionic, cationic, or nonionic surfactants. Polymeric emulsifiers handle salt better.
PeiHoong

Member
February 15, 2018 at 4:25 am

@Bill_Toge I see…we don’t have such equipment to conduct the test. But I believe it is as what you said the water in the formulation is very little. Thanks a lot for your advice. Appreciate it!

@Perry oh, it’s a new information to me! Thank you very much for your guidance!!!! Appreciate!