

Bill_Toge
Forum Replies Created
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorAugust 1, 2018 at 8:15 pm in reply to: What are your thoughts on Sulfated Castor Oil?it’s not so much bad as old-fashioned; there are other, less highly coloured/odoriferous materials that will do the same job just as well
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorAugust 1, 2018 at 8:06 pm in reply to: How to make hair web ??you’ll have to learn how to shot web first
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sodium stearate is your best bet for creating water-based sticks
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorAugust 1, 2018 at 8:00 pm in reply to: How much to dilute 70% SLES gel so it becomes liquid?between around 30 and 65% w/w it forms a crystalline phase which is completely rigid, and much harder to process than the lamellar phase it forms at 70% and above - this is why it’s sold as 70%, 28% or lowerwhether or not it needs preservatives depends on the pH of the dilution; dilutions without preservatives are around pH 12, and use their high alkalinity as preservationin my experience, industrial-scale dilution tends to be carried out using a specialist (and complex) Bran-Luebbe mixer like this one -
also, chemicals are usually referred to by their trade names and common names rather than their IUPAC names, e.g. acetic acid and Hyamine 1622 rather than ethanoic acid and N-Benzyl-N,N-dimethyl-2-{2-[4-(2,4,4-trimethylpentan-2-yl)phenoxy]ethoxy}ethanaminium chloride
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if you want to look up banned or restricted substances, the full lists are online:
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 25, 2018 at 10:20 pm in reply to: Menthol bitter taste masking in mouthwashfrom experience, I’ve found sorbitol in substantial quantities (5% or more) gives a cooling sensation, and a sweetener can mask bitter tastesmenthol and peppermint oil are both very bitter by nature; the first thing I’d try would be reducing them -
Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 25, 2018 at 10:07 pm in reply to: Hair conditioner Separates.also, if you’re using glyceryl stearate SE, that contains sodium stearate, which is anionic and therefore incompatible with the cetrimide
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 25, 2018 at 8:54 pm in reply to: Preservation of water based edge control pomades with fixative@Sibech the amendment allowing leave-on usage of MIT at up to 100 ppm was passed relatively recently (around 2005, if memory serves)before that, MIT was only permitted for use in rinse-off products, as a mixture with MCIT, at up to 15 ppm, so the current limit has just reverted to one which has historically been proven to be safe -
as these are industrial labs, they’ll be run very differently to academic labs, and the chances are you’ll have to learn a completely new way of workingthe best advice I can offer is just to pay attention, work conscientiously and document your work clearly
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 24, 2018 at 10:36 pm in reply to: Preservation of water based edge control pomades with fixativeuse different preservatives: they’re not stable above 40°C, and if it’s a hot-fill product, the sustained heat in the filling process will be enough to destroy them@Sibech 15 ppm is more than sufficient to pass a challenge test; European limits on preservatives, dyes etc. are very generous, provided that you’re using the right one for the job -
Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 19, 2018 at 8:29 pm in reply to: grain size for toothpastethere are grades of silica specifically sold for use in dental care - they are very fine indeed, and even the most abrasive grades don’t feel grainy
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the problem is that those two emulsifiers are liquids at room temperature, so the emulsion interface is weak, leading to separation (unless you stabilise it some way, and physically prevent the continuous phase from flowing at rest) - try using emulsifiers that are solids or pastes at room temperature
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 10, 2018 at 12:01 am in reply to: preservative for cosmetic product with pH>10phenoxyethanol works well up to about pH 121,2-diols (butylene, pentylene, caprylyl glycol etc.) are also pH independent -
Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 22, 2018 at 2:49 pm in reply to: Any benefits from alkanolamide free (no Cocamide, Oleamide, Lauramide) formulations?the only time DEA and its derivatives can form nitrosamines are when they’re combined with nitrosating agents, e.g. bronopol or sodium nitrite; the former is rarely used in cosmetics these days, and the latter is virtually unknown (it’s limited to food)in the late 80s, one of my former employers had shampoos with cocamide DEA and bronopol that would literally turn black over time due to nitrosamine formation and oxidation -
Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 22, 2018 at 1:48 pm in reply to: Clay Pomade Percentagewell they’re all numbers followed by a % sign, so they’re definitely the genuine article
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also carbomer gels become thinner as electrolyte concentration increases
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 15, 2018 at 10:40 am in reply to: Reverse Engineeringwith a few exceptions, I have almost never determined the exact percentages when reverse-engineering products - for the most part it’s been a matter of educated guesswork, and most of the time, that’s all that’s requiredalso if you have a mixture of essential oils, or vegetable/plant seed oils, you’ll have great difficulty identifying and characterising them by chemical analysis@Gunther in Europe the compositions declared on the Cosmetic Product Notification Portal are strictly confidential, only visible to the Responsible Person and poisons centres/regulatory authorities -
Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 14, 2018 at 8:36 pm in reply to: Viscosity problem for a runny gel productthe problem you’re facing is that carbomers and xanthan gum are anionic, and the ingredients typically used in conditoners are cationic, so they are fundamentally incompatibletry using a non-ionic rheology modifier, like locust bean gum or tara gum -
Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 14, 2018 at 8:29 pm in reply to: Apparatus to measure the viscosity of toothpastelike many other non-Newtonian liquids, toothpaste does not have a constant viscosity - the viscosity varies depending on the rate of shear applied to itthe cheapest equipment that can be used to make quantitative and meaningful measurements is a Brookfield RVT dial viscometer with a heliapath, or any fuctional equivalent -
Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 14, 2018 at 7:58 pm in reply to: pH adjuster for mouthwashphosphoric acid works well at very low levels, is readily soluble in water, is available in food grade, and is one of the least harmful acids as far as dental health is concerned; citric acid acts as a chelator and does a lot more damage to the teeth than non-chelating acids doalso, if you’re using sodium benzoate as a preservative, you’ll have to get the pH below 5 for it to work -
Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 9, 2018 at 11:12 am in reply to: Hair Conditioner: heated water phase and heated oil phase(1) assuming it’s O/W, as most conditioners are, none; oil into water is the most typical way these products are manufactured(3) on a large scale (100 kg upwards), a hemispherical reactor with a contra-rotating scrape-wall mixer and a shear mixer is the best piece of kit for the job -
Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 8, 2018 at 5:26 pm in reply to: Eyeshadow with too much falloutare you using surface-treated pigments?
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 7, 2018 at 9:07 pm in reply to: Does anyone know any testing centre that can test the existence of hydrocortisone in a lotion?as an example, one of the people who swore by these products was the company chairman himself, who was in his seventies, did a lot of manual work around the site and frequently had cracked/chapped skin on his hands; once he started using the aqueous cream regularly (which had no pharmaceutically active ingredients - any effect was entirely due to petrolatum and mineral oil) these problems went away completely
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 7, 2018 at 7:44 pm in reply to: Does anyone know any testing centre that can test the existence of hydrocortisone in a lotion?in my experience the Trading Standards Agency (the body responsible for enforcing the Cosmetics Regulation in the UK) only get involved with cosmetics if a product is found to have consistently short weights, someone is injured by a product, or there are microbially contaminated/flagrantly illegal products on the market; for the most part, they have much bigger fish to fryhaving worked at a factory which produced large volumes of aqueous creams and ointments of various hydrophobicities, which were used religiously by certain members of staff and their families, it is quite possible that the occlusive effect of the product was in itself enough to alleviate your baby’s eczema