Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Preservation of water based edge control pomades with fixative

  • Preservation of water based edge control pomades with fixative

    Posted by NWOKOLOG on July 24, 2018 at 4:20 pm

    How can i stop the
    formation of molds and discoloration on my water based edge tamer pomade, the
    products forms molds and gets discolored with time, i included a preservative(Methylisothiazolinone Benzisothiazolinone) 0.1% concentration. the basic ingredients in the
    formulation are.

    Water

    Ceteareth-25

    Tegosoft cg

    lipocol HCO40

    Olive oil

    fixative

    fragrance

    propylene glycol

    preservative.

    More so, could the olive oil be the cause of the mold
    formation and discoloration or is there anything omited in the formula?

    Thanks in anticipation for your technical assistance.

    DAS replied 5 years, 9 months ago 5 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    July 24, 2018 at 5:23 pm

    Seriously awful preservatives, implicated in skin sensitisation.

  • Sibech

    Member
    July 24, 2018 at 5:45 pm
    Methylisothiazolinone is so skin sensitising that the EU has practically banned its use (Technically legal in rinse-off formulations at 0.0015% - 15 ppm!).
    It might be an effective antimicrobial, but it is a terrible ingredient to use (and if you use it instead of parabens due to the paraben scare, then you will likely experience the exact same scare level for MI).
  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    July 24, 2018 at 10:36 pm
    use different preservatives: they’re not stable above 40°C, and if it’s a hot-fill product, the sustained heat in the filling process will be enough to destroy them
    @Sibech 15 ppm is more than sufficient to pass a challenge test; European limits on preservatives, dyes etc. are very generous, provided that you’re using the right one for the job
  • Sibech

    Member
    July 25, 2018 at 6:37 am

    @bill_toge you are likely right that it may be sufficient when used with the right products. I also concur that we generally have some generous regulations.

    Considering the reduction of the permitted amount was reduced, based on sensitization,  from 100 ppm in all products to 15 ppm in rinse-off only, which even for those unfamiliar with toxicology should be sufficiently indicative of the sensitization potential.

    I still maintain they are a poor choice, especially when considering marketing and sensitization potential.

    It is, however, seemingly a non-question in this case as their thermal stability should lead an exclusion in this product (the more you know).

  • NWOKOLOG

    Member
    July 25, 2018 at 8:42 am

    Thanks 

    Do you think i should include solubilizers in my fragrances or what kind of fragrance do you think will stop discoloration.
    More-so, which broad spectrum of preservative would you be recommending for the water based pomade, and should i completely remove the olive oil, the %conc. of the olive is 0.6%.

    Thanks.

  • belassi

    Member
    July 25, 2018 at 1:25 pm

    Olive oil encourages the growth of malesezzia the scalp-destroying yeast. So yes, it is NOT a good inclusion.

  • NWOKOLOG

    Member
    July 25, 2018 at 1:48 pm

    Thanks Belassi, which broad spectrum preservative do you think should not denature at a high temperature since am filling at a hot.

    Thanks.

  • belassi

    Member
    July 25, 2018 at 4:15 pm

    Parabens, or (providing your production is sufficient to deal with the MOQ, which is a 25Kg pail), Spectrastat G at 1 - 1.2% 
    Both of these are processable at high temperatures and not dependent on pH. (neutral pH can be used)

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    July 25, 2018 at 8:54 pm
    @Sibech the amendment allowing leave-on usage of MIT at up to 100 ppm was passed relatively recently (around 2005, if memory serves)
    before that, MIT was only permitted for use in rinse-off products, as a mixture with MCIT, at up to 15 ppm, so the current limit has just reverted to one which has historically been proven to be safe
  • belassi

    Member
    July 26, 2018 at 4:24 am

    Sure. MIT is great if you don’t mind your skin breaking out in scabs all over. Which is what happened to my poor dogs after using a Harz dog shampoo that used those preservatives. The Internet is full of stories about those preservatives.

  • Sibech

    Member
    July 26, 2018 at 10:33 am
    @Bill_Toge you are right that MI was added on its own “recently” in 2005.
    3:1 MCI:MI mixture was originally allowed at 50 ppm (provisionally) and then reduced in concentration to 30 ppm and then finally to 15 ppm due to a concern of sensitization. The last change of concentration was in 1989.
    As a result, the actually permitted limit of the compound MI was 3.75 ppm.
    The current legal use level of MI is based on the historical safety of the mixture, which was in fact allowed in leave-on cosmetics (with the possibility of variance in local regulations).
    The mixture is now restricted to rinse-off products due to the presence of MI.
    With that said, I don’t personally mind MI in rinse-off products (I am using a shampoo daily containing the compound). The poor choice suggestion was, even if poorly worded by me, made specifically for the original post using 0.1% for a leave-on hair-styling product.

    @belassi In defence of MI, I doubt the scabs were causally linked to MI in the shampoo, the compound rarely elicits irritant contact dermatitis at the allowed limits, while you haven’t mentioned the chronology of the event and I can’t say for sure not being a vet, but it seems unlikely to be an allergic response (even in dogs) as described.

  • DAS

    Member
    July 26, 2018 at 4:52 pm

    Sadly there are many brands using it. It’s cheap and efficient. But I guess it will be replaced soon, it affects far too many consumers. This week I had to make 3 batches of shampoo because of it. 3 employees had the same issue, either them or a relative, scalp scaling similar to malassezia, and ZPT and ketoconazole was useless. The first ingredient I knocked out was MIT/CMIT. The result was almost instant, the next day scaling was gone.
    I asked what brands they were using, went to the market and they all had MIT/CMIT. If 15ppm does that I don’t want to imagine what a higher concentration would do. And considering dog skin is way different and half the weight of a human in the largest breeds, a more severe reaction wouldn’t be strange.

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