Benz3ne
Forum Replies Created
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amitvedakar said:still wrong.you have to mention how much you add ingredient in 100 gm handwash. (%).Am I missing something? The ingredients are listed as grams per 100g (denoted by water qs to 100g). Wouldn’t that then be the same as w/w%?
Edit: E.g. SLES.
(w(ingredient)/w(total)) *100 = w/w%.
(20.4g/100g) * 100 = 20.4% w/w. -
ozgirl said:Benzalkonium chloride is cationic and is not compatible with anionic surfactants such as SLES. You need to use non-ionic or cationic ingredients only. If you eliminate the Benzalkonium chloride you will not have an antibacterial hand cleanser as you are removing the main active ingredient.
The same seems to be true for the ‘go to’ antibacterial compounds. I read the same for chlorhexidine digluconate yesterday, as it happens.
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Perry said:@Benz3ne - that would depend though on their market. In the US, COSMOS doesn’t mean much. If you want to sell a product as “organic” you’ll have to comply with the USDA regulations for Organic Products.
A valid point well made - I should’ve elaborated to COSMOS (or similar depending on territory).
Thanks for the clarification, Perry. -
Perry said:First tell us what you mean by the word “organic”. To a chemist, anything that contains hydrocarbon molecules is organic. You might mean something different.
I’d have assumed that they want to market it as ‘organic’. I think looking for COSMOS approved chemicals would be a good place to start.
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I’d advise against eating anything with Castor Oil in it, personally. Technically edible but will make you sh*t hard, for days.
As for your capric-caprylic triglycerides question, can’t see any reason why you can’t use it in your brownies! -
I’m in agreement with @Belassi above.
How viscous do you want it? If you’re just thickening only SLES with salt, it’ll take more than the ~2% values stipulated for SLES/CAPB(/CDEA) mixtures that are typically thickened. Use of the CAPB or amide will potentially help thicken the mixture.
I’ll also note that your 10% of 28% active SLES means you have only 2.8% SLES in your mixture. While this can be thickened, if you use more it’ll get thicker quicker. 2.8% SLES isn’t a huge amount.
Lastly, perhaps try with substituting your hypochlorite with water and see whether it requires the same amount to thicken, or whether your bleach is having a deleterious effect on the viscosity. -
Hi Daniel, I think you might need to disclose a little more information before anyone can help. What does your skin cream incorporate already? What aspect of the bamboo would you be looking to use in it?
The soap should be easy - either you can look to use a melt-and-pour soap and add your charcoal as a simple means of approach. Otherwise you could simply do cold or hot-process soaps and add the charcoal therein. It shouldn’t really make much of a difference but I’d be inclined to add the charcoal after initial saponification.
There should be formulations/recipes on charcoal soaps already available on the internet - just sub out regular charcoal with your bamboo charcoal! Be sure that you’ve double-checked your lye concentration(s) too, you don’t want a caustic resulting soap.
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Belassi said:but I suspect they get their colours from crystallising in a dyed solution.
I agree with this approach.
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ngarayeva001 said:Speaking of denatured alcohol, I recently found out there could be different materials under this INCI. Does anyone know which types are allowed in the US and EU?
If this question is still outstanding, there’s SDA Formulation 40B in USA which is suitable for cosmetics.
In EU/UK, it is usually TSDA 1 which is used for cosmetics. There’s also TSDA 10 but that’s typically reserved for hair-styling products only.
The SDA 40B and TSDA 1 are both ethanol + a proportion of t-butyl alcohol. The proportion of t-BuOH is prescribed and usually there’s requirements for manufacturers of denatured alcohols to hold licence.
In EU you also require licence for receipt of TSDA’s (of any iteration). Not sure whether that’s the case in USA. -
You could probably have the melting profile of the mixture investigated. You’ll know where the solidifying range lies and whether that’s anywhere close to 38°C.
I’d assume it is as, although you’re using tapioca starch, MgOH and bentonite as solidifying agents, there’s still a reasonable amount of lower viscosity (grapeseed) oil and reasonably ‘meltable’ shea butter.
Perhaps trying something like microcrystalline wax or beeswax to firm it up a little and bring the melting ‘shelf’ a little higher? If trying with beeswax, maybe add a little castor oil to aid slip?