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I have always taken it as % of final formulation volume.

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What is your budget for each formula?

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This is why it is important to use proper chemical descriptions. DEA is not cocamide DEA. Magnesium hydroxide is not, what you said, ‘magnesium’. It is as if I said there was “sodium” in a product instead of sodium chloride.

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You’re using powdered magnesium in your product? It’s incredibly dangerous.

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Can’t you use proper chemical names? I cannot make sense of it.

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You will need to ask again because what you have written makes no sense. For a start, use proper names. POLYGUERTENIUM- 1??? C12-13 ALKYL LACTAT???

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Advice? Sure. Don’t waste your time.

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Thank you!

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does short flow mean less slip?
- Yes.

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You would have to conduct a marketing study.

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10% urea seems a lot. I doubt it will stay pH stable for long. Acids + urea? Does it smell of ammonia at all? That would be a giveaway.

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I use a blend: Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (and) Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (and) Lauramide DEA (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Ammonium Xylenesulfonate.
I can tell when a product is SLES based just by using it, the products don’t have enough slip, they are short-flow.

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Isn’t hydroquinone banned?

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It is best to use a surfactant blend. The whole is greater than the sum of the individual items. It is possible you’re allergic to glucosides; I once tried an Emulgin emulsifier based on Decyl glucoside. After one try out I received a crop of whiteheads.

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We adopted KEM NAT. The DHA destabilised emulsions.

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Impossible to have sodium stearate at that pH. Sorry. You made the issue even worse by using that preservative.

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You will get more slip and more foam. I do get pitting on stainless if I don’t clean utensils promptly. Do not let the pH exceed 6. 

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No idea. This is a cosmetic forum.

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There is 12.7g lipids and your emulsifier system is 4% glyceryl stearate and 1% stearyl alcohol. Not surprising it separated. Try adding say 2.5% of a high HLB emulsifier such as Polysorbate 20.

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MIT!!! Dermatitis guaranteed.

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1. SLES is not the world’s greatest foamer but it is usually adequate. I suggest removing the PEG-40 HCO completely. The SLES should be adequate to emulsify the fragrance by itself. Mix them together first. If not, use a fragrance that does emulsify in SLES. Then see how the foam is. If still not enough, Disodium cocoamphoacetate gives excellent small-bubble foam, you can try increasing the percentage. You might try a commercial cold-process pearl instead of the distearate.
2. This is logical because SLES in my opinion is a short-flow surfactant. It’s a reason I don’t use it myself. A water-dispersible silicone ester such as Silsense DW-16 might be of help (typical use rate, 1%) otherwise it is a case of changing surfactants.

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You’re obviously heading in the wrong direction. Your observations indicate that. And “My wrist also started itching” is a possible indicator of atopic dermatitis. You failed to mention any preservative.

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Crazy. ALS won’t do that. In fact you need to keep pH less than or equal to 6.5 or yes, ammonia will be released.

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It may slightly raise the pH. Ethanol is 7.33

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I view it this way. I’ve worked in a bar and cleaning out the pipe systems is something that has to be done regularly and done 100% properly. For the same reasons, possibility of a biofilm. Now imagine if I had to tell the customers, “There is a possibility of a biofilm in the pipes so we put a preservative in the beer to kill any nasty bits that might break off and get in your beer.”
How long do you think the bar would stay in business?
I don’t regard it as remotely acceptable that any kind of biofilm is present in pipes that are processing a consumer product. Not at all, not in any circumstances.