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Yes, I suggested this a while back on the forum. I already began looking for parts, out of curiosity. Emulsions without emulsifiers. There’s a thought.

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It is an antibacterial, isn’t it?

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My own decision was to use zero lipids. If I were to be interested in what you described, I would try lauricidin, (Monolaurin) which I stock.

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I don’t know about Kao’s colours, but their surfactants are great.

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Compared with our standard face cream, without the Proteasyl, I found quite a big difference - visible in days. I don’t have any doubt myself that it works. I did tester trials with this and two other ingredients from the same lab (Laboratoires Serobiologique) and found it the best of them, although all seemed better than the standard moisturiser. (The other two were Hyalurosmooth and Firmiderm LS 9120).

The tests resulted in two products, one is an anti-wrinkle cream for night use, the other is a gel for morning use. The cream was already our most popular product, the gel is catching up. We often get people buying the pair as a system.

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I don’t know if you would call it an “active” but I find that certain things can usefully give benefits in a cleanser: for instance Lamesoft PO-65 acts as a refattener. Including it in my body wash design gave a nice skin effect.

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Perry, your comments make sense. 

I have been trying to develop a hair restorer (yes you can start laughing now!) with zero success. I put everything in it that I could find that might have an effect (excepting drugs such as Minoxidil). For instance, Trichogen(tm), which is really expensive, was just one component. Our testers reported no effect whatsoever. It has occurred to me that I might buy some human hair growth factor from one of those Chinese biotech companies, but then, would it be safe… such things are after all growth hormones, not just cosmetic ingredients.

I do use ingredients that have a metabolic effect on cells. For instance, Proteasyl TP LS8657. The manufacturer’s published data states that it inhibits elastase and collegenase, which I would have thought are metabolic effects. We’ve been using this in an anti-wrinkle cream with excellent results. I assume that in the USA it would not be a permitted ingredient?

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Interesting, now where does one get ferulic acid? 

Regarding hyaluronic acid, I include a herbal precursor in one of our gels.

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I like to try leading edge materials, things like polypeptides and human growth factor, but US style regulations would prohibit all that. I don’t see why it should be the preserve of giant corporates or the rich.

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Sounds pretty sweet (sorry couldn’t resist)

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@Microformulation: Yes I know what you mean. My Inolex rep was very helpful though in terms of samples. It was enough to get through design and proof and test marketing, although I’ve only got three (gel) products using it at the moment.

@Moonie: You might contact your local universities to see if any of them have a microbiology speciality. A dental school will have such. So then you prepare a batch and place samples in inoculation dishes and take it to them and have them add various interesting things like A. Niger for example. And see what happens.

First of all, I would make a batch and just leave it in 2 oz pots with the lids off, in the open air. See what happens.

It is a good idea to start a shelf where you keep samples from your lots. You check them as time goes by and see what happens. My oldest samples are now over 4 years old and still look OK but I wouldn’t want to use them!

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“Minor” regulatory differences? I’m going to die laughing!

I investigated the UK with a view to exporting our products and found that provided we comply with the list of banned or restricted ingredients, we have no problem, unlike the USA.

Basically in the EU the attitude is: “Provided the product is not harmful, then any therapeutic claims made for it are the purview of the advertising standards authority.” 

Whereas in the USA, it appears that one has to first prove therapeutic claims - at immense cost - which means that that market is locked up by huge companies with deep pockets.

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Ekaabo, TeniBeauty! Bawo ni n nkan? I’ve worked in your country from Lagos to Owerri so I know it pretty well. And I was lucky enough to be able to see Fela at the Shrine. Welcome to the forum!

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First, that is a closed group so I can’t see the comment.

Secondly, I have no experience with this product although I do use Inolex preservatives (Spectrastat and Spectraguard). I have found them to be excellent preservatives when used at the recommended dosage.

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Welcome to the forum. You sound very versatile!

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Thanks Kirk. I will see if my BASF distributor can supply it.

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Thanks guys, I will run another test batch next week, after I finish making a large batch of shampoo!

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Yes, you’re right. I reduced the emollients but forgot to adjust the emulsifiers! And, would Polysorbate 20 be better to use?

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Yeah. I haven’t had problems before with glycerine at 3% so I’ll begin by determining the minimum amount of polysorbate 80. To answer @nasrins comment, the skin loves d-Panthenol according to Swift’s blog.

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I have produced a 500g test batch of the modified formula as per my last post. The pH = 5.5 without any adjustment required. The organic mamey oil is tending to sequester at today’s ambient which is 21C. It seems to have a fusion temperature of around 20C. 

The revised formula on application seems a bit “sticky”. The sensation doesn’t last long but I would prefer not… perhaps reduce the % of glycerine?

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Aha so polyquat 10 comes as a solid. (Just checked) If so, 2% seems high. 1% better. I don’t use it myself. I use quaternium-60. Also, you might find cetearyl better than cetyl for the purpose.

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That’s correct, it is a hand cream.

I am going to change the 5% stearic to 1% stearic, 3% cetearyl alcohol and 1% cetyl alcohol and see how that is.

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I use methyl parabens and propyl parabens at a ratio of 2:1 by weight.

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1. 70

2. 3

3. 3

4. 2

5. 2

6. 2

Other components make it add up to 100% (oils, preservative, fragrance, hydrosols)

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Now this might be useful in the lab… 

I especially like the temperature control to 176F (80C) and the capacity (6L). 150W is quite a high ultrasonic power level so it should be able to easily produce many types of emulsion. Also, that power level of ultrasonics is going to kill any kind of organism that might be present. I think I would definitely wear ear protection. Or even leave the room!