belassi
Forum Replies Created
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It is thanks to people like Bob that I decided to not get into colour cosmetics, at least not yet. So if anyone wants several kilos of various oxides and glitter…
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You mean, there is no value in all these probiotic yoghurts?
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@probioticqueen, just use buttermilk. It is quite high in lactic acid and you will see an effect.
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Actually, if it CAN colonise the skin and displace any kind of native flora and fauna, then who is to assume that the “bad” bacteria are going to suffer? Maybe the “good” ones will be displaced! What total BS.
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My own opinion is that you’re trying to make a wheel from straight pieces of wood. I don’t think you will get a dilute solution to fully saponify. The reaction concentration appears to have a minimum critical level.
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I have made natural liquid soap myself, but I have to say, that none of it performed as well as the synthetic surfactants, in any respect.
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I have only seen discoloration with potassium sorbate when the product is very old and oxidised. In practice the shelf life is at least 3 months. If that isn’t adequate for you, sodium benzoate is just as effective and not subject to discolor, as far as I am aware.
Oh I see why the isopropyl alcohol. You will just have to experiment and see. I use Tea Tree Oil 0.2% in my own shampoo against the same yeast. -
1. The potassium sorbate at 0.5% alone is quite sufficient, adding other preservatives is a waste of money and time.
2. I have had allergic reactions to shampoo containing as little as 1% glucosides and have also had reports from two customers, and I have removed glucosides from our designs as a result.3. Isopropyl alcohol? Why? Likely to kill foam I would think. -
GripClean: To answer your question, once the oils are saponified they are a surfactant, of course. But until saponification is complete, you are trying to put polar and nonpolar together. The speed of the reaction depends on temperature, concentration, and droplet size. That is why a surfactant can help; it reduces the surface tension of the oil/water interface and allows them to combine more easily. I assume you are already using high shear mixing to allow the oils and lye solution to combine.
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I suggest adding a wetting agent (surfactant) but you will need to experiment to find the maximum dilution that still allows proper saponfication.
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The first thing is, how are you calculating the required amount of KOH?
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It’s quite tempting to make a really thick natural yoghurt and market it as “Magic Lactic Skin Paradise Probiotic Yogbog.”
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I thought that anything that claimed to treat acne was an OTC drug in the USA? Am I wrong?
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This is the same technology that has been known since the US paint company Metalflake(tm) began. Back in the 60’s I painted my GT6 in Mirraflake(tm) which refracts rainbows. Having to bury the flake under 10 coats of acrylic lacquer makes the whole process a bit ridiculous. I guess Big Solid Lips might be a side effect if not careful.
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You’re talking about an OTC drug rather than a cosmetic, as far as the USA is concerned, and at the least a ‘cosmeceutical’ in other countries, and therefore my first question is, what is the target market location?
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Plastic tends to be attacked by fragrance oils. I suppose there might be some plastics that would resist it - Lexan? But I doubt you would be able to source appropriate bottles in those materials.
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Do not bottle perfumes in plastic. Components will migrate through the plastic and evaporate. I imagine that it might be possible to use, say, aluminium bottles, but these tend to be expensive and difficult to source in small quantities.
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I use synthetic jojoba and it does not solidify in the refri.
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I have problems sourcing salt without additives. Using table salt is not a great idea, I think.
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If you are beginning, there is masses of information at Swift’s blog.
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I wonder if HLB value is related to saponification number.
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Wow congratulations, I dream of having a 260 gallon tank!
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“Nutrilan® I-Powder is a collagen protein hydrolyzate that displays good skin compatibility and improves the dermatological characteristics of anionic surfactants.” (UL Prospector)
- and you are using it with a cationic surfactant. Unless there are other ingredients you haven’t mentioned … this seems like the start point. -
I know this is completely out of the envelope, but Mark’s comment led me to imagine melting the combination, placing it in a vertical tower such as a split pipe, with an aquarium stone at the bottom, fed by a small air pump, then place this in a freezer. . .
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I think all you need to do to make a face mask is to add the clay and actives and adjust accordingly. I would guess that at skin temp, the drying time would be < 30 min.
The only reason I am not proceeding with that is because I do not have the kind of powerful equipment that I would need to process the kaolin and resulting mixture.I’m going to try the 225 polyvinyl next, I’ll report back.For those who want to try it, a good procedure might be (to make a sample)Get a jar with a lid that closes well.Put the pv alc and glycerin in the jar and agitate. This helps to avoid clumping.Add the alcohol and agitate.Add the water. Mix well. Add the surfactant and mix in.Put on the cap and shake well from time to time.It should be ready in about 24h.