[belassi]

With respect, how do you expect any of us to give you any meaningful advice if you post such vaguely-worded questions and don’t even provide an accurate list of ingredients?

[belassi]

can you pleas help advising me on labelling company  with reasonable price 
appreciate very much a reply
Start a new discussion please.

[belassi]

The fact that shea butter is in the soap does not mean it will have any effect. It won’t, except that it will increase hardness and reduce lather. In order to get a skin lightening effect with shea butter, it is necessary to formulate it as a cream or lotion or other form of product that is applied to and absorbed by the skin. It is the retinol in shea that is responsible for the effect, and it is best to use unrefined class A organic shea if you want it to prove effective.

[belassi]

Thanks for that, Ozgirl. Minimums are no problem for me with BASF because Conjunto Lar, a factor in Mexico City, can supply me. I just bought a kilo of it to try, it was around US$27.50 per kilo, rather more expensive than capric/caprylic triglycerides, but it’s for our most expensive product to date.

[belassi]

I don’t see a rinse off product as being of any use for lightening. Skin lightening components are expensive and should be used in a leave-on product that’s rapidly absorbed. Besides which, the high pH would be likely to ruin them.

[belassi]

The first has the same problem, the second is for Cetiol CC not Sensoft. I did find some information from Dewolf Chemical. I see it has a saponification number of around 195, I suppose it would be possible to make a (very expensive) soap from it! Thanks anyway.

[belassi]

Leave natural soap natural. Messing around with it just ruins the whole concept. There are a few things you can add to the batter for very specific reasons; such as sodium lactate (to increase hardness) or titanium dioxide (to improve whiteness). Attempts to mess with the pH invariably result in ruined product. If you don’t want an alkaline pH product, then forget natural soap and go synthetic. Natural soap is nice and performs well, we make and sell it, but I have designed synthetics that outperform it in every respect, including price.

[belassi]

“You do not have access to the Europe (EMEA) region.”
I can buy it, but I can’t find out about it.

[belassi]

Omega 6 is just a common or garden fatty acid found in many cooking oils. Nothing special about it.

[belassi]

No.

[belassi]

You’re welcome. The next experiment is to determine the minimum amount of KOH so as to minimise the % of potassium citrate in the final solution.

[belassi]

Didn’t need 24 hours. I decanted 90% of it leaving the remaining undigested solids. Then I neutralised it with citric acid to pH=7. Interesting: the tan colour changed back into the colour of oatmeal. The result is a gum, with foaming properties. I painted it onto my left arm and let it dry. It left an invisible film with skin-smoothing properties.
I think I am going to make a larger quantity of this, say a couple of kilos, and test it in hair and skin products, beginning with shampoos and conditioner.

[belassi]

Now working with potassium hydroxide. Interesting. I have managed to hydrolyse it and now have a tan coloured, very viscous, fluid with some remnants at the bottom. I will allow solids to separate out for 24 hours then separate and neutralise the fluid with citric acid. I should end up with hydrolysed oat protein and potassium citrate.

[belassi]

Update: I have tried papain but at any reasonable concentration it doesn’t seem to have any effect.

[belassi]

Well if you leave out 90% of the ingredients and don’t inform us you’re trying to copy a product, what kind of reply do you expect?

[belassi]

That’s not a cream it’s a soap.

[belassi]

well I have a bottle that is 15% oatmeal with my usual modest amount of preservative sitting around in 27C so I will let you know if it turns into Fungus The Bogeyman (this is from before someone here told me that 1% was sufficient)

[belassi]

I read the last article, thanks for the link.
My own feedback from customers using our anti-dandruff shampoo (active: tea tree oil) is that some reported complete clearing of dandruff in 6 weeks typically, and loved the product, while others reported little or no effect. This fits with the idea that dandruff has not just one cause but possible multiple causes.

[belassi]

Not if it remains anhydrous.

[belassi]

Probably you are viewing the results of a decomposition reaction of some kind. I would bin it. If it has reached the final phase, I suspect there would be a smell, because aldehydes usually are quite smelly.

[belassi]

I think you could take a more logical approach to this formulation. If you are really sensitive to all sorts of ingredients and you have no idea which, I would begin by formulating a conditioner on paper, then do a patch test on myself with each ingredient in turn, using the same dilution on the patch as you would in the formula. 
Having identified a set of ingredients that individually cause no reaction, then combine them into the conditioner and see how that goes.
Looking at your formula, I consider the only possible ingredients for irritation to be:
Climbazole 0.5%
Potassium Sorbate 0.5%
So I would begin with these.
@jiroband also made some good comments.
You should consider adding anti-irritants such as calendula and aloe vera extracts.

[belassi]

Myristyl Myristate -> Myristol acid + Myristol alcohol -> Myristol aldehyde + Myristol alcohol

[belassi]

The problem with carbomer is that it’s another process stage to have to do, plus the possibility of fish-eyes if you’re not very careful, plus the fact it makes it more difficult to package since the flow is no longer so variable with temperature. Before going that route I suggest reducing the FCO (is that the same as Myritol 318?) from 13% to 5%, and instead add 5% shea or mango butter, 2% stearic acid and 1% cetyl alcohol. In addition the high % of EO will definitely NOT be helping, reduce to 1% and replace by another 1% cetyl.

[belassi]

@Microformulation: My problem with this is that there is plenty of evidence that some products DO work. After seeing the results of the vitamin C active on our testers I am (and they are) in no doubt. Yet such products are banned from use by USA consumers - except in the case of mega corporations who can afford to pay enormous amounts for elaborate proof testing. The FDA are working to prevent innovation in my opinion, and simultaneously helping big manufacturers at the expense of small ones.

[belassi]

You’re welcome.