belassi
Forum Replies Created
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You use a pH meter to measure the cream. That’s it. When you refer to “liquid soap” if you mean soap made by saponifying oils, there is no agreed method of measuring the pH, in general the “zap test” is used (tasting it). Provided you calculate the weights correctly using a soap calculator and the process goes OK there should be no problem.
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At 1%?
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Don’t forget that you can add a small amount of salt to make the soap harder.
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Sorry if this in in the wrong discussion. I am new here.
No problem.
First, I advise against the use of olive oil in a skin product. It is inflammatory.
I notice a large number of precautions listed.
http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Arnica-Extract_p_11.html has a 20% extract available. -
I have to say, I experimented with non-palm soap recipes for years. Finally I gave up. Nothing I produced was anywhere near as good as what I make with 40% palm oil.
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Bob, is a muller better than a ceramic pestle and mortar? Just curious, I have no intention of getting into colour cosmetics.
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Start your own company. From what you say it appears that is your path.
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I see no problem running this at 70C, my first cream was similar in some ways. Basically it looks like a carbomer cream, the carbomer is acting as emulsifier. Or stabiliser, rather.
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Just warm it to 35C, mix in and homogenize.
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I’d be looking to join somewhere else, with better management.
You know, formulating care products is a bit of an art as well as the science. You should practice as much as you can. It is only by physically handling the materials that we get to know them properly. For instance, good sensorials are a must. Consumers won’t buy products that feel ‘wrong’. And sensorials are a personal, physical experience. I can talk about “short flow” and I can talk about “long flow” and someone might have no idea of what I am on about, but if I put a long flow versus a short flow product on your arm and invite you to spread it out, then you discover the difference immediately.
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You are missing the point completely. The formula is a classic saponification system. It is a soap. Very very simple. The EDTA is there just for hard water and the glycerin as a humectant and process aid.
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Try alternative fragrances. This is an unusual problem. It is usually possible to include 1% fragrance in a surfactant base provided the base has a sufficiently high proportion of active material.
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the fragrance, unless you have included things that you have not told us about
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Amphoterics are perfectly compatible with anionic surfactants. They adopt the charge of the prevailing surfactant.
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@manstra, thanks for that. I will go with the more expensive option.
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well, in that case, omit the PEG-12 Dimethicone and use a water-dispersible silicone instead at a smaller percentage, say 0.5%
I have a problem understanding the terms “antifreeze, light and shine” -
Having read up on this now, I see that it’s inadvisable to use any of these processes on dyed hair due to the likelihood of colour change. I see that the recommended usage is 10 - 20% and that it tends to be an expensive salon treatment at the moment. Perhaps I should design one with 10% for home use and another with 20% for salon use.
Also, I’m thinking, can I do away with the dimethicone and cyclo. I have a water dispersible silicone, Silsense DW-15, I could use that instead, which will mean I can use a much lighter emulsifier system. -
Are the emulsifiers that I use the suitable ones or do i need a different emulsification process / different emulsification materials.
I can’t see that being an adequate system as you have discovered. HLB value is very high at 15. Try adding a low HLB emulsifer, I suggest adding 2% glycerine monostearate and 1% cetearyl alcohol. Hot process of course.
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Realistically the only test I can run is to make a formulation and try it on the customer. I can only trust that the supplier is honest.
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Have you done a comparison of the selling price when using these different methods? To my mind you want an effective preservative but not to spend money needlessly. We have been selling shampoo now for more than two years and have had zero problems with mould or bacteria. The preservative? Nothing more than 0.5% sodium benzoate at pH=4.5
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I’ve got samples of KEM DHA, STABIL, and KEM NAT. I will pick one of our creams and make a test batch and split it into three, then use a different preservative in each. I’ll try them on the testers, and retain one of each to see how long it survives.
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The distributor kindly sent the sample, so you can assume that you’ll be hearing the result soon. I only have enough to do one test.
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If you want to make use of the cationic properties of a betaine, you can choose a betaine designed for the job. For instance Dehyton AB-30 has an extra cationic ion attached as compared with CAPB. Using it instead of CAPB leaves the hair softer.
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CAPB is amphoteric. See: http://www.eocgroup.com/content/amphoteric-surfactants