Aniela
Forum Replies Created
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Hi,
Just took a look at Marie’s formula, and she specifically mentions that this formula is inspired by Cerave’s Hidrating Cleanser Bar, and is intended to be less disruptive to the natural skin barrier.
The original list of ingredients is this: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Stearic Acid, Aqua / Water / Eau, Sodium Isethionate, Ci 77891 / Titanium Dioxide, Cocamidopropyl, Hydroxysultaine, Potassium Phosphate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Dimethicone, Behentrimonium, Methosulfate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Phosphate, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Petrolatum, Phytosphingosine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylene Brassylate, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin.
She kept what she belived will be easily available for most DIY-ers, and also she explained why every ingredients is in there.
You could easily choose a different benchmark for your bar.
The version suggested by @Cafe33 will be a bit (or more?) harsher than Marie’s, but since you’re going for more foam vs less harsh, it might be what you need.
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In my experience, BTMS is not so “willing” to melt, so I use a dedicated coffee grinder (wearing goggles, face mask, and gloves is a must- at least for me) to make things easier.
It usually goes in the oil phase, but the melting point is quite high- the manufacturer says 80-85C (you could go up to 90C). Obviously, you need to use a thermometer to check the temperature.
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Apparently you’ll need a different ingredient for the “fibers” aspect https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/hair-styling-paste/
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1. To find out which is one “superior” you’ll have to analize every component of both preservatives and find out if any of your preservatives cover ALL of these: gram+, gram-, and mold/fungi. I’m pretty sure you’ll find none of those two do that.
As @Graillotion said, tocopherol is an antioxidant- it might be useful in your formulations, or not- nobody can tell without knowing the ingredients you’ve used.
2. Regardless of your ethos, you should bring to the market ONLY safe products, and that is not a claim, that is inherently expected from any product on the market.
“Clean” only relates to the definition of “clean” given/implied by your market segment, so if you use what they think it’s “clean”, then no issue.
3. You have the answer from @Graillotion : preservatives tend to be formula-specific.
PS- I see you’re new here: to enable the members to provide help, one should use the INCI names of the ingredients (not trade/commercial names), and also provide the list of ingredients used in the product(s).
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Sorry, just noticed they still have the program https://personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvColourCosmeticFormulation-1900/
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This is the only one I know of https://personalcarescience.com.au/Books/Colourcosmeticformulationbook-477/
This is an older video, and at that time I remember they had a separate course on colour cosmetics: maybe they took the course out and replaced with the above book, no idea…
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Listing the %s would be quite useful.
My bet is on the “parfum oil”. Have you used before in the same formula and had no issues?
Also “vitamin E” is a broad description of what you’ve used. Depending on other factors, it can undergo oxidation, which may further contribute to color changes.
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Bonjour,
I love to see a different language here🙂
Hair products are not my “strong suit” but I wonder about the possible build-up of polyquats from all the other products used- shampoo, conditioner, hair-cream, hair-gel.
Regarding the other questions, I will leave them to the experts here.
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Are you asking about something like this?
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I doubt that an emulsifier alone could do that: it always depends on the overall formulation, plus the skincare regimen.
Here they list some products- you could search the ingredients list for each of them and see what captures your interest.
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I’m curious, did you find the “culprit”?
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I would take @ggpetrov ‘s advice and drastically reduce the % of retinyl palmitate.
For two reasons: it does cause a sticky feel which is exacerbated by it’s slower absorption rate, and it might not be safe at that %.
The second reason is based on SCCS’ opinion which says “- via face cream at the maximum concentration of 0.3% may lead to daily systemic dose of 1185 IU for an adult. This exposure could constitute up to 24% of the UL of 5000 IU/day of Vitamin A. Therefore, the SCCS considers that the use of Vitamin A in face cream products per se is safe.” https://health.ec.europa.eu/publications/vitamin-retinol-retinyl-acetate-retinyl-palmitate_en
Even if you’re not in Europe, you’re using 2% which is 6.(6) times higher than 0.3%=> which gives a daily systemic dose way higher than the recommended 5000 IU/day (7900 UI)- that is if your costumer does not eat anything containing vitamin A, which is highly improbable. That could prove a dangerous daily systemic dose for any adult, healthy or not.
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You might find this reading useful
https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulated-chemical-filters/#more-12552
She has many other posts on the subject of sunscreens, so here goes your weekend😉
labmuffin.com
SPF Boosters: Hidden chemical sunscreens in “mineral sunscreens” | Lab Muffin Beauty Science
There's a sort of industry secret with mineral sunscreens: a lot of them contain unregulated chemical sunscreens. Which isn't always a big problem… but it also kind of is. Today we'
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Why would you want to mix those two?
Tego Care PBS 6 works well on its own, it doesn’t need another emulsifier.
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Thank you.
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Thank you, Perry.
It might be that the idea of using oils with a RI equal to the sebum’s RI made him so enthusiastic that he came up with a new “must”.
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Ooops, didn’t see/read the peg 90.
Maybe try the ceteareth-20 as suggested in other posts?
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Beeswax? The person said “I would like to add an ingredient that will cause stringiness. This feature is sometimes referred to as “fiber” “taffy” “taffy pull” or “elastic.” and the answer to that was “that effect is created by adding a high molecular weight polyethylene glycol resin, e.g. PEG-90M […] you’ll have to incorporate it into a water-based formula“
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Hi Natasha,
Found a link to an e-book format https://www.perlego.com/book/2682094/coloring-the-cosmetic-world-using-pigments-in-decorative-cosmetic-formulations-pdf
I don’t know how much/if they charge as the only option is “Read this book now” so you’ll find out after signing up, I suppose.
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For fun (and a bit serious😉): why is it a good idea to use the function “Search Forums”?
Because you find things like this https://chemistscorner.com/color-cosmetics-a-practical-guide-to-formulation-review/
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Glad I could help.
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If “vitamin E” is a tocopherol mix, and it’s in there to prevent the oxidation of the fragrance, you have A LOT in there- that can accelerate the oxidation process.
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As much as it is safe- conform IFRA guidance.
Some details from manufacturer’s guidance:
“Difficult to stabilize ingredients like electrolytes
and high amounts of urea or ethanol are well
tolerated by emulsions based on TEGO® Care
PBS 6.TEGO® Care PBS 6 is suitable for the formulation
of O/W emulsions with all types of cosmetic oils
at a pH of 4.0 to 8.5.TEGO® Care PBS 6 is suitable for systems preserved with natural preservatives such as organic
acids (e. g. benzoic acid and sorbic acid).The recommended usage concentration of
TEGO® Care PBS 6 is approx. 2.5 to 4.0% in lotions
and sprays.Typical oil phase contents of emulsions based on
TEGO® Care PBS 6 are 10 - 30% for lotions and
10 – 20% for sprays.Typical combinations for O/W lotions are 2.5 –
4.0% TEGO® Care PBS 6 with up to 3.0%
consistency enhancers. Suitable combinations
include TEGIN® M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) and
TEGO® Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) or TEGO®
Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) in a ratio of
50:50.”- meaning from the “up to 3% consistency enhancers”, 1/2 would be glyceryl stearate and 1/2 would be either Stearyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol -
Thank you. I’ll take a look.