Innovation in cosmetics: The haircare conundrum

Innovation is and always has been one of the core foundations of the beauty and personal care industry. Cosmetics products are most likely to see success if they leverage cutting-edge technical formulations to meet the evolving needs and preferences of consumers. However, as the cosmetics industry has grown and developed, formulators have had to manage a huge variety of factors, beyond just the curation of innovation.

This phenomenon has been particularly relevant to the world of haircare. Despite recent trends and buzzwords such as “bond building” or “customisation,” the core technology and scientific innovation behind shampoos has remained largely unchanged since the 1950s. But why exactly is this? It’s a multifaceted web of challenges, which has been impacted by many different factors. Primarily, formulators within haircare (but also the wider cosmetics industry) are facing several key issues which are impacting their ability to innovate and create truly unique products.

Limitations within formulation

When developing new and exciting products, formulators in the cosmetics industry must comply with a variety of different rules, regulations, needs, preferences and restrictions from consumers, regulators, associations, brands, and other industry stakeholders. Managing these perspectives and requirements necessitates a juggling act for formulators.

A tightening regulatory environment

In the cosmetics industry, new laws and regulations are constantly being brought into effect in order to protect the safety and wellbeing of consumers, employees and the environment. However, due to difficulties around implementing new regulations – both in terms of the timescales, and the complexity of the regulatory landscape – they can often hinder the process of creating true innovation.

Misinformation among consumers

Fear mongering and misinformation frequently plays a key role in determining the products created and used in this industry. Over the years, certain ingredients in the cosmetics world have gained a negative reputation among consumers. This can be a result of misleading media reports, unsubstantiated claims, or misunderstandings about scientific evidence. For example, ingredients such as sulphates and silicones have been subject to unwarranted scrutiny and negative publicity as a result of (often) unfounded concerns about their safety and potential health risks.

As a result, formulators frequently avoid using these ingredients in the creation of new products, in order to pacify consumers. However, it can be difficult for formulators to identify and implement effective replacements.

The ‘green beauty’ movement

The increasing demand for natural and sustainable products has also presented challenges for formulators. While consumers seek products that are perceived as gentle and environmentally friendly, there can be limitations in terms of performance and efficacy compared to traditional formulations.

While it’s clear that innovation will always remain essential, cosmetic formulators must strike a delicate and complex balance between delivering true innovation in the industry and sticking to ‘accepted’ ingredients and practices from the consumer perspective.

Despite these prevalent challenges, there is opportunity for formulators to drive innovation in haircare. By staying informed about emerging trends, collaborating with the relevant industry experts, and investing in research and development, formulators can create products that meet the evolving needs of consumers while addressing the concerns related to regulation, sustainability, and consumer perception.

Perry Romanowski, Chair of Education at the IFSCC and Vice-President at Element 44 INC, will be speaking at the Cosmetic Conference (in association with IFSCC) at in-cosmetics Asia on Tuesday 5th November, where some of the biggest challenges and opportunities for formulators in the cosmetics industry will be explored in more detail. in-cosmetics Asia 2024 will take place at the BITEC in Bangkok, Thailand from 5-7 November 2024.

For more information or to register to attend the event, visit https://www.in-cosmetics.com/asia/en-gb.html