Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Skin Feel Difference Between Liquid Lecithin and Deoiled/Powdered Lecithin Reply To: Skin Feel Difference Between Liquid Lecithin and Deoiled/Powdered Lecithin

  • suswang8

    Member
    June 17, 2021 at 4:07 am
    Hi, @Juliatrudie
    It’s been a while since I was experimenting left and right, but I used Emultop Velvet IP a couple times, at something like 2% concentration, plus 10% oils.  Emultop is an oiled, enriched soy lecithin.  In most cases, the formula would look fine for a couple days, but then fall apart.  I was using several other ingredients (powdered extracts, niacinamide, etc.), so I’m not sure of the main driver.  I perhaps did not spend long enough blending/homogenizing as this is a very high-maintenance ingredient. 
    I also experimented with powdered/de-oiled lysolecithin from Cosphatec, which is quite a nice product, but some regard it as a co-emulsifier, not a primary one.  (Incidentally, it is still stable as a sole emulsifier at 4% in a simple hand cream two months after formulating.)   This product has an excellent, silicone-like skin feel, with a finish that is more matte than the Emultop, but allegedly the skin benefits of lysolecithin are not as great as lecithin, especially when enriched (outside my comprehension, though).  I think where I had last left off was trying to create something with a mix of this lyso plus the Emultop, so that the finish was slightly dewy and yet skin feel was silicone-ish.
    Today, I started playing around with the Cosphatec oiled lysolecithin, with a first batch using ~1.75% of it, plus 8% almond oil.  With only 2% glycerin, it still feels a bit more sticky than ideal, but I’m quite picky.  I used a cold-process method described here.
    I’ve never had an issue with odor, but that is of course highly dependent on what else you’re using in the product. 
    I have a strange feeling that lysolecithin is causing my face to flush slightly — not sure yet.
    What have your experiences been so far?

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