Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating your beloved emulsifier !!

  • your beloved emulsifier !!

    Posted by rayyy on November 23, 2023 at 5:26 pm

    Hello, I noticed among discussions of this forum that you always advice to go with 165 emulsifier. I’m new to formulating and I read that 165 works for non polar oil phase. I want to create an emulsion with isoamyl laurate, cct, and ipm also behenyl and cetearyl alcohol for viscosity. I haven’t ordered samples yet, so should I order emulgade 165 and what co emulsifier works best with? should I add 1% of sepinov emt or it is not necessary. Also for cold process I tried sepinov emt 10 and viscolam 100 at p, both have the same feel, which one do you think is better. Thank you for taking your time to help

    graillotion replied 3 months ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • graillotion

    November 23, 2023 at 6:25 pm

    165…all the way.

    I like to use a 1 part to 10 of an anionic, to make it ‘bulletproof’. This can be GSC, SSG, or what I have been using lately… Potassium Cetyl Phosphate.

    As far as the polymeric. I was always taught that fundamentally…a water gelling agent always enhanced the stability of the emulsion….gums or polymerics. Obviously…. if the addition can enhance the haptics….then even better. As far as what feels good…to me… Zen the worst… Aristoflex AVC the best. You can play around with blending AVC with EMT 10 or carbomer….70% AVC and 30 of the latter…I think you’ll find something you’ll like. I like to keep the overall polymeric around .7% to .8%….as I seek just a gel undertone.

    If you really want to dress it up…add some pentylene glycol….and thank me later (1.5 to 2%) Not only will your preservation system thank you….but it makes water feel wetter….and combined with fast breaking AVC….you are on your way to something. 🙂


    • rayyy

      November 24, 2023 at 5:17 am

      thank you!! You and this forum are amazing. Also one more question what is in your opinion the best blend for cold process gel cream

      • graillotion

        November 24, 2023 at 11:03 pm

        Never made a cold process emulsion in my life. 😂 I love the melty things too much. 💖

  • jemolian

    November 23, 2023 at 6:43 pm

    It depends on what type of combination you want. You can consider what graillotion has mentioned to add an additional anionic co-emulsifier and/or you can choose a fatty alcohol, and the polymer you prefer, depending on stability and skin feel / texture. For the polymer, you can also choose carbomer or other similar ones.

    For the combination, it also depends on the cost and what kind of convenience you want. Since the viscolam 100 is a polymeric emulsifier blend, you can choose to use 165 + fatty alcohol + viscolam. If you prefer better flexibility, you can choose the 165 + co-emulsifier +/ fatty alcohol + polymer.

    • This reply was modified 3 months ago by  jemolian.
    • rayyy

      November 24, 2023 at 5:18 am

      Thank youu !! Appreciate your response

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