Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Xanhtam gum and LAA

  • Xanhtam gum and LAA

    Posted by antmagn on July 4, 2025 at 3:15 am

    Hello,

    I used to make my own vitamin c serum with LAA (l-ascorbic acid) and plain distilled water, geogard 211 preservative (Benzyl alcohol, Dehydroacetic acid), disium EDTA and gse (grapefrtuit seed extract). It used to work fine, I’ve tested the ph and it was low but my skin is fine with it, being doing this for years, the tingling from LAA is there.

    Now I decided to make it a little thicker and add xantham gum to it. It feels more luxury now that is thicker, ph the same but it feels like it does not abosorb by the skin, I do not feel any tingling anymore and it feels like a film and sitting on top. Is this possible? Should I leave it watery as it was?

    Thank you in advance 🙂

    Aniela replied 2 weeks, 2 days ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Aniela

    Member
    July 5, 2025 at 7:57 am

    How much xanthan gum have you used?

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    July 9, 2025 at 1:35 pm

    Xanthan gum is never good sensorially. It is just to plain gummy. I never liked it and still do not understand its appeal with the newbie so-called “clean” beauty formulators. If you must use a gum resin, try sclerotium or cellulose. You will still have a film, it just feels more comfortable.

  • antmagn

    Member
    July 10, 2025 at 3:03 am

    Xantham gum 1%, I also have VIVASTAR® CS 142 HV (Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose), not sure if it’s compatible with acids…. Google says it is “Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) is generally stable and soluble in aqueous solutions across a pH range of <mark style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit;”>3 to 11</mark>.”

  • Aniela

    Member
    July 10, 2025 at 4:36 am

    1% xanthan gum is A LOT for a serum (1% is used in hair-gel). On top of that you added HPMC, so no wonder a film “sits” on your skin.

    To find out the optimum %, experiment with your gums (separately) in plain water at different %s (I would start with 0.2%) and see how you like the feel and consistency of each resulting gel.

    PS- LAA is HIGHLY unstable therefore degrades really FAST=> I’m just wondering how effective is your “serum” after a few days…

  • antmagn

    Member
    July 10, 2025 at 4:41 am

    I.did not add vivastar, i.asked as an alternative only.

    • Aniela

      Member
      July 10, 2025 at 6:55 am

      1. As previously said, even if you used only xanthan, 1% is A LOT.

      2. My suggestion to experiment with the gums and plain water still stands.

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