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Willow Bark vs Salicylic science
I see manufacturers suggest willow bark extract as a “skin purifying” ingredient, mentioning how it turns to BHA.
Am I not correct that the extract only has salicins, and although the body can convert those to salicylic acid, there is no proof this happens in the upper layer of the skin? So it is not a replacement for BHA salicylic acid, it’s just an anti inflammatory rather than a pore purifying ingredient. This marketing claim just doesn’t make sense. Or did anyone have experience with this extract doing anything to clean the pores?
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3 Replies
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Willow bark contains mostly salicin, the glycoside form of salicylic acid; however, some salicylic acid is reported to be present - from the data I have, salicin is reported to be between 4-11 g/kg in raw herb; naturally any extraction will concentrate that amount. I don’t have any data for salicylic acid content of the bark; but again, any extraction will concentrate that too.
Salicin, being a glycoside, is metabolised in the gut into salicylic acid and sugar; however, I don’t believe there are any enzymes produced by the skin to convert salicin to salicylic acid.
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Thank you, a lot of inaccurate marketing info out there.
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Indeed. And raw material suppliers are not under the same advertising / marketing restrictions that you have for finished product makers. They can pretty much say whatever they want on the flimsiest of evidence. It’s up to the finished goods maker to vet the marketing material that suppliers push.
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