Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Will this formula work?

  • Will this formula work?

    Posted by octylacetate on April 14, 2020 at 6:13 am

    water, cetearyl alcohol, macadamia integrifolia (macadamia oil), prunus armeniaca (apricot kernel oil), prunus dulcis (almond oil), persea gratissima (avocado oil), corylus avellana (hazelnut oil), rosa rubiginosa (rosehip oil), butyrospermum parkii (shea nut butter), tocopherol (vitamin E), citrus grandis (grapefruit seed extract), aniba roseodora (rosewood), cymbopogon martinii (palmarosa), pelargonium graveolens (geranium), santalum album (sandalwood east indian), rosa damascena (damask rose floral water) . 

    Pharma replied 4 years, 2 months ago 7 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    April 14, 2020 at 8:18 am

    Will it work? Well, it sounds refattening, soothing, and nicely smelling and also like being great for growing microbes too. Apart from that, what is it supposed to do?

  • octylacetate

    Member
    April 14, 2020 at 9:02 am

    Will cetearyl alcohol be emulsifying enough to give a stable cream? 

  • LuisJavier

    Member
    April 14, 2020 at 10:21 am

    I would recommend you to not use rosewood oil so as to avoid worsening its endangered status. Cetearyl alcohol is not sufficient for emulsification. It can help keep emulsions stable though. 

  • Unknown Member

    Deleted User
    April 14, 2020 at 3:14 pm

    It would be sensible to introduce a second emulsifier as cetearyl alcohol will not be enough alone. Depending on the % concentration of all those oils put together, you may also need a suspending thickener to avoid the oils and emulsifier floating to the top. Also, if you are intending to use it for more than two days repeatedly introducing microbes with your fingers and then leaving it to grow (which it will, fuelled by all those nutrients), you will also need an effective preservative. The only way you will find out if all of this works is by making it and testing its stability - formulators often have many attempts at refining a new formulation before they succeed.

  • Pharma

    Member
    April 14, 2020 at 3:32 pm

    Will cetearyl alcohol be emulsifying enough to give a stable cream? 

    Like @LuisJavier said, it is not an emulsifier but may increase emulsion stability if combined with a real emulsifier.

  • alchemist01

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 6:17 pm

    What are you asking for exactly? It appears you copied this product’s ingredients: https://ondabeauty.com/products/rejuvenatingfaceandneckmoisturiser
    If you’re trying to recreate their product, wouldn’t you know if it works or not?

  • lmosca

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 7:02 pm

    Yikes! Most products they have for sale only contain cetyl alcohol as “emulsifier”. Most are unpreserved (because of the well known (non-)preservative action of sandalwood oil) and the ones that are are seriously underpreserved (potassium sorbate, sodium anisate, sodium levulinate) while containing clay (which I guess it has not been sterilized).

    I am surprised they have been in business for 20 years. They must have really good lawyers.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 7:18 pm

    @lmosca - getting people to pay $120 for a 4 ounce product is impressive. Perhaps that helps fund the lawyers.

  • Pharma

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 7:41 pm
    Didn’t you know that probiotics and skin microbiota are super trendy?
    Why not launch a kombucha cream or kimchi serum :smiley: ?
  • lmosca

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 7:55 pm

    @Pharma, LOL! What about a sourdough and sauerkraut mask?
    Hey, at least they are all rich in alpha-hydroxy acids. Don’t know about the sensorials after-effects… Will moldy-cabbage-umami flavor/scent be the next market hype in cosmetics/perfumery?

  • Pharma

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 8:23 pm
    @lmosca You should try oyster sauce (the real ones with at least 30% oysters inside)! I love it and use it everywhere in the kitchen/BBQ and, from a theoretical point of view, it should be great for skin too. Flavour isn’t fishy at all but sweet & savoury.
    Unsure about sourdough though… when I eat that, it works as if it were bread made with castor bean oil 🙂 .

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