• Formulating

  Why Behentrimonium ain’t commonly used in shampoos? It seemed to work for me.

  Posted by Gunther on July 3, 2018 at 8:34 pm

  First I “brewed” a simple leave-on conditioner:

  95% deionized water
  0.5% Methyl Paraben (will add some Propyl paraben in the next brews)
  Heat to about 70-75 C in a water-bath, stirr to dissolve the paraben.
  Once it’s fully dissolved
  1.5% Incroquat Behenyl TMS-50 (BTMS-50)
  Keep on stirring it for 10-15 min at the same temp 70-75 C. Make sure water in the outer container doesn’t boil.
  Turn off heat. Allow to cool off.
  1.5% Dimethicone 300 Cst (probably not the best dimethicone viscosity choice for a shampoo)
  Emulsify with proper mixer. Don’t allow it to foam too much.

  Then, for the coditioning shampoo I followed @chemicalmatt  advise
  Cationics first, then CAPB, then glucosides, and anionics last:

  50% of the afore mentioned leave-on conditioner 
  10% Dehyquart-A ( 3 % active CAPB ) some slight viscosity build up here
  (mixed and allowed to rest almost 24 hours, since I had other things to do)
  10% BCare2000 (about 5.2% active Decyl Glucoside) it thins out
  1.95% generic SLS powder
  6.55% Texapon N70 (4.55% active SLES) some viscosity builds up again
  citric acid qs to pH 6
  1% Oxiteno Alkont 3645 thickener. On showering I realized it’s still a little bit thin. I will try 1.5% 3645 thickener the next time.

  Everything seems to stay on solution, no precipitates.
  It was a decently conditioning, but not wonderful.
  In the next brews I will try some extra BTMS-50 + dimethicone, and maybe a higher molecular weight dimethicone.

  DAS replied 5 years, 9 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
• 2 Replies

• 

  Gunther

  Member

  July 27, 2018 at 7:40 pm

  This attempt didn’t work well:

  60% water
  2.5% BTMS-50
  heat and stir

  10% silicone mix (15% dimethiconol, 85% cyclopentasiloxane)
  stir

  8.33% Dehyton-K (2.5% active CAPB)
  stir gently and left standing for a few hours
  3g SLS powder
  10% Texapon N70 (7% active SLES)
  1.5g Oxiteno Alkont EL 3645 thickener
  it remains water thin

  8% Dehyton-K 
  it becomes thick and slimy.

  I will repeat the test with just 1-2% dimethicone instead of the silicone mix, to see if it gets any better.

• 

  DAS

  Member

  July 27, 2018 at 8:29 pm

  Perhaps because pquats are more cost-effective. For a large batch this would be troubling and expensive.

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