Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating White streaks when spreading the cream on the skin

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  • White streaks when spreading the cream on the skin

    Posted by AleH on October 30, 2019 at 3:12 am

    Hi, I need some advice, I’m trying to do a bio-based face cream that could support some oils and AHA. When I spread it on the skin first it looks good, then white streaks appear, all turns white, and finally, it is absorbed, but it isn’t nice. I’m doing small batches of 50ml to test, hand mixing. Here are the formulas I tried: 

    Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter: 5%
    Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem1000): 4%
    Glyceryl Monostearate (SE): 8%
    oils: 10%
    glycerin: 6%
    Xanthan Gum: 0,4%
    Preservative. 0,6%
    water: 66%

    Also tried 
    Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter: 5%
    Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem1000): 4%
    glycerin: 6%
    Xanthan Gum: 0,4%
    Preservative. 0,6%
    water: 84%

    and this one:
    Cetyl alcohol: 2%
    Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem1000): 6%
    oils: 10%
    glycerin: 2%
    Xanthan Gum: 0,5%
    Preservative. 0,6%
    water: 78,9%

    Always the same problem.

    AleH replied 4 years, 6 months ago 4 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    October 30, 2019 at 3:40 am

    Normal. It’s soaping due to the emulsifiers. You can either change the emulsifier system or add some silicone.

  • crillz

    Member
    October 30, 2019 at 4:01 am

    Yep Olivem 1000 pretty prone to soaping. Dare say ur not interested in using a small percentage (1-2 percent) of dimethicone but that would fix it. 

  • AleH

    Member
    October 30, 2019 at 4:44 pm

    Thank you! adding silicone is not an alternative for this formulation, but I changed emulsifier and got rid of olivem and it improved!

  • helenhelen

    Member
    November 3, 2019 at 3:45 pm

    Hi @AleH, what emulsifier did you switch to? Did the whitening effect go away completely, or does a bit remain?

  • AleH

    Member
    November 9, 2019 at 6:13 pm

    Hi @AleH, what emulsifier did you switch to? Did the whitening effect go away completely, or does a bit remain?

    Hi @helenhelen. I added 0,2%  of Lauryl glucoside (Plantaren 1200 N UP) It improved a lot, but maybe a little bit remained…still trying things

  • helenhelen

    Member
    November 9, 2019 at 9:03 pm

    @AleH My chemists tested Potassium Cetyl Phosphate in some of my samples and it eliminated the whitening but the formula was less moisturising afterwards.

  • AleH

    Member
    November 11, 2019 at 12:43 pm

    Thank you very much @helenhelen, I will try it!

  • AleH

    Member
    November 11, 2019 at 12:44 pm

    @AleH My chemists tested Potassium Cetyl Phosphate in some of my samples and it eliminated the whitening but the formula was less moisturising afterwards.

    thank you very much!

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