Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Which of these ingredients can be excluded from my formulation?

  • Which of these ingredients can be excluded from my formulation?

    Posted by Onthejourney on March 3, 2024 at 12:51 am

    My favorite hair cream-gel has been discontinued. I aim to create a similar version at home, drawing heavy inspiration but not necessarily duplicating it. I assume the inclusion of claim ingredients isn’t necessary because I’m not marketing this product to the masses. It will be for personal use.

    To clarify, by “claim ingredients” I mean the ingredients simply there for marketing purposes. The selling points that set the product apart from competitors and appeal to the target audience. With the ingredients listed below, I am guessing some of the claim ingredients are the multiple oils?

    Basically, I want to avoid unnecessary ingredients and focus solely on the essentials that will provide a medium-strong hold, definition, curl enhancement, and a touch of shine. However, it is imperative that I do not deviate too much from this ingredient list. I am not seeking to introduce new or different ingredients; rather, I aim to subtract the unnecessary ones.

    Here is the original product ingredients, listed in descending order of predominance:

    Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, PVP, Glycerin, Propanediol, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Oil, Collagen Amino Acids, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Schinziophyton Rautanenii (Mongongo) Kernel Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, Carbomer, Fragrance (parfum), Triethanolamine, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Lilal, Linalool

    Perry44 replied 1 month, 2 weeks ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • Camel

    March 3, 2024 at 3:38 am

    I would say remove the collagen amino acids and choose one oil and one protein to keep, so you are left with something like:

    Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, PVP, Glycerin, Propanediol, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Oil, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA

    You could also add fragrance.

    • Perry44

      March 5, 2024 at 9:06 am

      I agree. That’s a pretty good starting point.

      Although you might want to look at the fatty acid distribution of all the oils and then pick one (maybe not even one currently in the formula) that overlaps better.

      • Onthejourney

        March 7, 2024 at 4:00 pm

        As someone very new to formulating, I’m finding it a bit hard to grasp your advice about choosing a fatty acid that might have better overlap. Could you please elaborate on your recommendation?

        • Perry44

          March 7, 2024 at 6:26 pm

          Ah, well natural oils are all made up of mostly fatty acids. These are classified by the number of Carbons in the molecule and range in number from C8 to C24. Most natural oils have between 12 and 22 Carbon atoms.

          Let’s look at Coconut oil.

          It is composed of the following.

          C8 = 0.23%
          C10 = 4.5%
          C12 = 55.3%
          C14 = 21.8%
          C16 = 7.3%
          C18 = 3.1%
          unsaturated C18 = 4.97%
          double unsaturated C18 = 2.1%

          So, it is mostly C12 and C14 which are Lauric acid and Myristic acids.
          Argan oil on the other hand is composed of the following.

          C16 = 16.5%
          C18 = 4.2%
          unsaturated C18 = 45%
          double unsaturated C18 = 35%

          If you blended coconut oil and argan oil together in equal ratios you would have approximately the following fatty acid distribution.

          C10 = 2.2%
          C12 = 27.5%
          C14 = 10.9%
          C16 = 12.1%
          C18 = 3.7%
          unsaturated C18 = 25.5%
          double unsaturated C18 = 18.5%

          So, you want to find an oil that has that fatty acid distribution. It will then work the same.

    • Onthejourney

      March 7, 2024 at 3:50 pm

      Sorry for the delay in responding, but I think this is a sound suggestion that I’ll be following. Thank you for your input!

      • This reply was modified 1 month, 2 weeks ago by  Onthejourney.

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