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Which emulsifier is more robust: PEG 100 Stearate or Ceteareth 20?
I have always thought that the 165 type (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) was the industry’s most robust emulsifier. Somehow my matriculation through the cosmetic formulating landscape, I missed the day where I learned about Cetearyl alcohol and Ceteareth 20.
I am reevaluating the emulsifier for an emulsified cream deodorant, full of actives. In this format, I am looking for quick absorbing product that leaves a dry finish.
I am also using a small amount of an anionic emulsifier to bolster. More than likely GSC, but I also have SSG on hand.
I do not have access to Ceteareth 12 (Sorry ChemMatt).
I made an emulsion using Ceteareth 20, and polyglyceryl-3 stearate + GSC, and the texture was very nice, but did not want to go together until the mixture had cooled substantially from the original temp of around 75. I will try adding some Glyceryl stearate to this today….and see if I get a better result.
The emulsions that don’t go right together always scare me.
Any thoughts on what to combine to make a really tough… cream deo? I will list what I have on hand:
GS
GS SE
GSC
165
G Oleate
Polyglyceryl 3 stearate (incudes behenyl alcohol)
Ceteareth 20 with and without cetearyl alcohol
SSGMontanov: 202 /L/ 68
I might have more…but that is what come to mind.
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12 Replies
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@Graillotion When pairing emulsifiers, you should search for the ones with similar non-polar part (that’s why PEG-100 stearate/Glyceryl stearate and Cetearyl alcohol/Ceteareth-20 work that well as combo). It’s like if you want to build a support using Tetrix: if you don’t choose all the pieces for a tight structure, it will still work, but won’t hold as much weight as if you have chosen the right pieces not to leave any hole.
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With Ceteareth-20 …. would there be any issue with playing well with the low HLB Monolaurin? I am using it as an active in deo, not really as an emulsifier….inclusion rate is .5%. The C-20 will only be used as a co-emulsifier. (My primary emulsion of Mont 202 and SPDMA….not as consistently stable as I want.)
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@ketchito What about those emulsifiers that contain both? ie Ritamulse? (Glyceryl Stearate & Cetearyl Alcohol & Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) I see those folks having issues with phase inversions….is this due to the emulsifier blend, or more probable that their addition of additional fatty alcohols is throwing the soup out of balance?
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In Glyceryl Stearate & Cetearyl Alcohol & Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, both the glyceryl stearate and the cetearyl alcohol work as structuring agents rather than emulsifiers. You also see SSL at the end, since under the LGN, the structuring agents are always in excess compared to the emulsifier. I believe the phase inversion you mentioned might be due either for the amount of oils, amount of emulsifier and/or manufacturing method.
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Yes, I was aware of how little of those strong anionics they use in those blends. In the past I have used SSG as a co-emulsifier quite often.
As of late….I have fallen in love with SPDMA as my co-emulsifier. 😆 Just had to learn to love HP starch….and I have a new love.
I don’t use Rita M…. was just trying to help out some beginners. In your answer you mention oil content…. since the topic is beginners….we know there is too much oil. But could you extrapolate on that idea?
Aloha, and thank you for your time and input, @ketchito .
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No problem 🤓. In a normal o/w emulsion, your surfactant keeps oil particles from coalesce and separate from your system. But the more oil you have (let’s say above 50-60% of your formula), the hardest it is for your surfactant to hold all that volumen, until a point in which your emulsion turns into a w/o that will be unstable (it will phase separate) if your surfactant is more soluble in water (high HLB). This can happen even at a lower volume fraction if you don’t have enough surfactant or if it has a high affinity for your oil phase.
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I have Ceteareth-25 at home. I have used in several times in body lotions. It is ethoxylated, means that it uses the HLB system to calculate the fat phase. These emulsifiers have very high HLB, so you have to pair it with something with lower HLB. Usually this is GMS. Twice I tried to pair it with the Emulsan (methyl glucose sesquistearate), it didn’t work. The workflow is different, so I guess they are incompatible. Your plans to pair it with these emulsifiers you’ve mentioned, doesn’t make a sence.
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@Graillotion I’ve used that PG-3 stearate and GMS combo at 3:1 and it worked really well. Add just a small amount of ceteareth-20 for extra stabilizing and you should be good to go. Also, using the GMS-SE will help this too.
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chemicalmatt said:@Graillotion I’ve used that PG-3 stearate and GMS combo at 3:1 and it worked really well. Add just a small amount of ceteareth-20 for extra stabilizing and you should be good to go. Also, using the GMS-SE will help this too.
Do you feel that a small amount of anionic like either SSG or GSC would make these emulsions even more stable….or does that just make for a long INCI?
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Of course some ionic surfactants help stability because of charge.
Are you talking about Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth 20 or ceteareth 2 or so + Ceteareth 20 to go for HLB counting method?
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Abdullah said:Of course some ionic surfactants help stability because of charge.
Are you talking about Cetearyl alcohol + Ceteareth 20 or ceteareth 2 or so + Ceteareth 20 to go for HLB counting method?
I am working with Cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth 20…. using GMS for the low end.
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Eventually you can replace the glyceryl mono stearate with the Olivem 900, which is low HLB as well, and you can feel the difference. It’s worth it, believe me 🙂
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