Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair What is creating hold in this formula? Volumizing mousse.

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  • What is creating hold in this formula? Volumizing mousse.

    Posted by sainthil on March 7, 2015 at 2:08 am

    distilled vitamin enhanced aqua (water), non-GMO corn or rice extract, organic vegetable glycerol, organic herbal extracts of: Ribes nigrum (black currant) extract, Beta vulgaris (beet root) extract, Kham thai & Vaccinium myrtillus (blueberry); natural plant sourced vitmains B1, B2, B3 & C; organic Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, plant sourced kosher vegan Xanthan gum & Potassium sorbate; organic African black soap, Vitamin A, essential oils of: Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) & Lisea cubeba (may chang)

    sainthil replied 9 years, 1 month ago 7 Members · 14 Replies
  • 14 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    March 7, 2015 at 2:42 pm

    Who makes that?

  • sainthil

    Member
    March 7, 2015 at 4:09 pm

    Yarok - a professional haircare line.

  • belassi

    Member
    March 7, 2015 at 5:10 pm

    Frankly I give no credence whatsoever to any company selling a shampoo made with African “black soap”, I know exactly what that is and how it’s made, and in a hard water area will give horrible results. And as for this:

    “Step Three: Magnetic Stone & Ceramic Magnets: This magnetic field purifies the water’s structure and drops the surface tension of the water while boosting its solubility”
    LIES and NONSENSE
  • braveheart

    Member
    March 7, 2015 at 8:09 pm

    Well, while I have witnessed the efficacy of West African “black soap” before (highly effective on eczema), I am yet to see any company make/create a COA or MSDS of any. So, I wonder how they managed to get a pass with that particular final product; perhaps they made one in-house.

  • sainthil

    Member
    March 8, 2015 at 1:14 am

    I wonder if they aren’t listing all the ingredients. I don’t know anything about the black soap. But I’m wondering what ingredient they are using that gives the hair hold. This is a volume mousse but I haven’t been able to identify what gives the hair body and hold. Any ideas?

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    March 8, 2015 at 7:19 pm

    well for starters, they’re not using standard INCI or CTFA names for most of their ingredients, so it’s clear they’ve got a pretty cavalier approach to labelling regulations

    also, there’s nothing declared on the label that would make it foam, which is a pretty fundamental  requirement for mousse

    with that in mind, I’d bet they’re using a synthetic polymer and not declaring it on the label

  • sainthil

    Member
    March 10, 2015 at 1:57 am

    The bottle is fitted with a manual mousse pump. It comes as a liquid though.

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    March 10, 2015 at 11:02 am

    even with a mousse pump, you still need some kind of surfactant to create lasting foam

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    March 10, 2015 at 2:16 pm

    That ingredient list is clearly fraudulent and non-compliant, so I doubt you could trust anything on it.

  • Iaskedbetter

    Member
    March 10, 2015 at 8:59 pm

    “Lisea cubeba (may chang)” is actually supposed to be LITSEA cubeba.

    It is possible that the xanthan gum and rice/corn extracts can produce a loose, messy foam as well as some hold (or “stickiness” that would give the illusion of hold). That ingredient list is still mind boggling though.
  • sainthil

    Member
    March 11, 2015 at 3:25 am

    Belassi, what don’t you like about African Black Soap? And, what does it do in hard water?

  • Chemist77

    Member
    March 11, 2015 at 3:51 am

    Guess the first thing is very high pH (I have made and tested Moroccan soap though) and secondly it would form insoluble salts with hard water ions which would markedly reduce the cleaning efficacy of the soap. 

    Last but not the least the dark lumpy structure is a big turn off to start with 

    :((

  • belassi

    Member
    March 11, 2015 at 6:09 am

    Exactly. Plus, it is a quite variable product especially in terms of pH.

  • sainthil

    Member
    March 11, 2015 at 4:18 pm

    I see. Thank you for the insight!

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