Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating What is an awesome liquid emulsifier that can be added cold process/cool down.

  • What is an awesome liquid emulsifier that can be added cold process/cool down.

    Posted by Graillotion on September 25, 2022 at 2:42 am

    I have been working on an eye cream, which in turn has been working on the thinning of my hair.   :p 

    Due to many of the ‘fancy’ ingredients wanting to be added in the cool down phase….I have a really large post emulsion phase (think 20%).  Much of the time it will break the emulsion when added.  It will usually go back together, but I find this an unacceptable route to go.

    So, it has been suggested to add an emulsifier at the same time as this large cool down phase is added.  I guess that would then mean the emulsifier would need to be liquid, and cold processable.  What are your top choices for an emulsifier that would fit this niche…and hopefully be compatible with most of the current structure? …. and if not wishing for too much….create dreamy haptics…hehehe.

    I have worked with two systems, both of which have failed.  An almost entirely 165 with a 1 part GSC to 10 parts 165, supplemented with the usual suspects, gum, Zen and behenyl alcohol.  Also tried my preferred system of half Montanov L, half 165….plus the aforementioned add ins.  Same result.

    So, trying to stick with the original base of 165 or 165 + Montanov L….what would be a good cool down emulsifier to add?

    Padmavathi replied 1 year, 6 months ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    September 25, 2022 at 3:15 am
  • Abdullah

    Member
    September 25, 2022 at 10:08 am

    Polyglyceryl 4 laurate or polyglyceryl 10 oleate.

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 25, 2022 at 6:43 pm
    I’m also for polyglyceryl esters.
    I haven’t tried the ones mentioned above but PG-10 laurate: I like it though I think it’s best used in blends if intended as emulsifier (for example with sucrose esters as aqueous stock solutions for cold process) and results in low viscosity emulsions and a light (wet to powdery) afterfeel.
    Other liquid ones are PolyAquol LW and VO4 or polyglyceryl-6 caprate and caprylate (never tried these). The latter two are often used as solubilisers rather than ‘classical’ emulsifiers. If you want to adjust for HLB/HLD values, combine with lower N° polyglyceryl oleates or isostearates which are all liquid.
    Fitting to your PEG-100 stearate, liquid Tween’s may also be an option.
  • Graillotion

    Member
    September 25, 2022 at 7:32 pm

    Pharma said:

    I’m also for polyglyceryl esters.

    A cursory glance through the vendors….this looks like the easiest one to find: 
     
    Sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, dilauryl citrate

    Does any of the additional baggage cause any concern?

    Not sure why it is so hard to find PG-4 from repackers in the US???

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 26, 2022 at 1:53 am

    Have you considered go polymeric completely? For example Pemulen EZ4U + Sepinov/Zen. 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    September 26, 2022 at 2:03 am

    Have you considered go polymeric completely? For example Pemulen EZ4U + Sepinov/Zen. 

    As I have too many actives, I think there will be an antagonism.  So, I have only dared use Zen at .4%  (When you have three people whispering in your ear, and you put each of their top picks in…..it adds up quickly.)   :D  

  • Padmavathi

    Member
    September 26, 2022 at 7:17 am

    Have you tried making gel trap emulsions? It has worked for me when I had to use such high amount of actives without heating. 

    My usual combo is Sepinov EMT 10 + Easynov, or Sepiplus 400 + Easynov. 

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